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Week Commencing 24 September - PATIENCE IN PUKEKOHE
As the week progresses it becomes apparent that, what we thought would be a quick and easy process to get the Tiger back in our possession, is not as we first thought. The first call to Jenners, the shipping agent in Auckland, on Monday morning gives us no reason to doubt that by Thursday, at the latest, we would be on the road and on our way to Northland and the Coromandel. A second call on Wednesday to see how things are going makes us start to doubt that this will not be the case. We are told that that are a lot of things that require MAF's attention (lovingly called the "Fruit Police") and we may not even be on the list by Friday! Reminding the contact at Jenners that the Tiger didn't even come out of the crate in Santiago and any dirt on it will be NZ dirt doesn't seem to work in any way. This was rather a naive thought on my count to be only thinking of dirt and bugs....more on that later!
So, not wanting to sit around and do nothing, we had to make alternative plans if we wanted to get out on the road and head north out of Auckland and waiting to get the Tiger back, maybe not until the following week, meant we had to think of some other form of transport. If we couldn't get out on our Triumph then what about hiring one? A quick call to our friendly Auckland dealer - AMPS - and all was arranged. We were to pick up a Sprint 1050 on Friday lunchtime and return it on Monday lunchtime, Jon and Margaret could drop us off at AMPS on their way to work on Friday morning - Perfect! Only having the Sprint for the weekend, and hopefully getting the Tiger back early the following week meant we just made a small tweak to the route and decided to go to the Coromandel first and then head up to Northland once we had the Tiger. On the Friday morning, as we were collecting the Sprint, we received the call from Jenners to say the Tiger was been inspected by Customs and MAF, all was ok and ready to collect. Too late was the cry and thanks but we were ready for off and we would see you on Monday. TYPICAL!
At last we were on the road and our way out of Auckland, on the Pacific Coast Highway to Thames. It was great to be on a bike again, the sun was out, beautiful scenery with the pohutakawa trees just starting to open their bright red flowers and it definitely felt like spring. After lunch at Thames we head to Whitianga and Coromandel Town for supplies and onto our destination for Friday night, Shelley Beach, just 5kms north of the Town. A gorgeous spot with cabins right next to the beach and views of glorious sun-sets. We like it so much we book for Saturday night.
We spend the weekend investigating the rest of the Coromandel - on Saturday to Oamaru Bay, Papaaroha, Amodedeo Bay, Waitete Bay and Colville in the far North and then over to Opito in the East and on Sunday back down the West Coast and over to Whangamata for lunch and then our destination for Sunday evening, Waihi Beach. "A figure of eight" trip around the Coromandel and a great weekend.
Week Commencing 1 October - BACK ON THE TIGER
An early start on Monday morning so we could get back to Auckland, get the Sprint back to AMPS and on to the airport to collect the Tiger.
Once at Jenners we had to start the work to un-crate the bike and get it back on the road again, i.e. get some air in the tyres, petrol in the tank and re-attach the mirrors and handlebars etc. We did have the help of one of the guys from Jenners and it was at this point we found out why it had taken such a long time to get the bike through inspection. We had apparently caused a bit of stir with MAF with our "quick" trip to South America! A very thorough inspection was warranted, including the sniffer dogs, to make sure the crate hadn't returned with a little something extra to when it had set off!
At last, we had the Tiger back in our possesion and we were soon ready to set off on the next step of our journey around the North Island. Our destination for Tuesday evening was Kaihu - 32kms north of Dargaville and a gorgeous spot in the bush and far away from civilisation.
Apart from, of course, the other people staying at the campsite! All part of the experience of a touring/camping style of holiday is the self-catering. Now this has good points and not so good points - you have to think about what you can cook with the equipment on the sites and what you can carry on a motorbike but, what can be a good point, is meeting the different nationalities of people who are also cooking their evening meal in the communal kitchen. On this particular evening we were in company of an English couple and a Dutch couple who were comparing their experiences of their travels around NZ. We did not take part in the conversation but did find their comments very interesting. The English couple had been in the country for three months and were about to leave for Oz, Malaysia and Thailand - in their words to find some sun as they were sick of being cold. You came to New Zealand in July, and started off down south - What Do You Expect? Apparently somebody in the UK told them that even in the winter the weather in NZ would be good. Next subject - the food. "Everything is expensive". The girl could remember the price of every kind of produce she had bought and couldn't believe the price of red peppers (capsicums). Oh and the meat - all the lamb was fatty, because we send all the good stuff to the UK and all the beef had fat running through it! "IT'S CALLED MARBELLING and it's supposed to be like that!! And, the one we couldn't believe - she couldn't find chicken breasts in any of the supermarkets they had been in! Wonder where the term "Whingeing Pom" comes from. It's obviously still required in the antipodean vocabulary.
After a very stormy night, our ride over to 90 Mile Beach is dry but very, very windy. This includes a 10 minute ferry ride from Rawene to Rangiora, cutting out a 80kms trip if done by road. Once at our accommodation for the next two nights, we check-in, change and head for a stroll on the beach. The wind is still very strong and making it impossible to take an enjoyable look at the beach, more like an exfoliation without visiting the beauty parlour. So two steps on the beach but at least we can say we were on 90 Mile Beach, again, over 20 years since the first visit.
Thursday 4 October - CAPE REINGA OR BUST
The wind has eased and the sun is out and perfect for a ride to Cape Reinga - the very most accessible northern tip of New Zealand. Along the way we encounter a herd of cattle being moved by the farmer and his dogs, a turkey in the middle of the road and a lone sheep on the verge of a bend who immedately decides to stand up when we approach, all the usual occurances when driving on NZ roads of course. Then, almost at the Cape, the last 21kms of road is unsealed but manageable on the Tiger and still travellng at 60-80kph.
After all this and we eventually get to the car park, we find that the road down to the lighthouse is in the middle of some serious building work and closed off to all vehicles. This is very disappointing as the idea was to have or photograph taken with the bike beside the lighthouse and the mile marker sign at the north end of NZ. This would go with the photograph of us at Bluff, the South End of New Zealand. But not to be deterred Neil asks some of the guys working on the road if it would be possible for him to take the bike over the gravel path - sharp intake of breath and "more than my life's worth mate". So we start to walk down. Still not to be deterred, Neil spots the Boss and tells him about what we had wanted to do - he says "No problem, just go get your bike but be quick about it so we can get back up before the coach load of tourists arrive" . At last, determination wins out and Neil accomplished what he had set off to do. See the photos for proof.
Friday 5 October - TIME TO CHILL
On to the Bay of Islands and to Russell where we have decided to spend the weekend and take a few days off the bike. On our way we stop at Haruru Falls, also known as the "Heart of the Bay of Islands" and was the original landing site for European traders in the early 1800s and the road down to the falls was the first registered road in NZ. Through Paihi onto Opua for the vehicle ferry for Russell and 10 minutes later we arrive in Russell where the weather is perfect and the forecast is good for the weekend. Formerly known as Kororareka it was New Zealand's first capital in the early days of European settlement and still has historical buildings to visit - but only 804 population. A great place to chill.
During the weekend we take a sedate walk to Long Beach, a gorgeous sandy beach only 20 mins from our campsite and on Sunday we take the passenger ferry over to Paihia to investigate on foot. We try to find the motel that we stayed in over 20 years ago but, trying to piece together the bits that we can remember, it looks like it has gone! Either to be replaced by a more modern looking two storey motel or, because we just can't quite remember the exact location, maybe even a high-rise holiday apartment block looking extremely modern with its grey weatherboard and stainless facade. How a lot has changed in 20 years!
On Monday we take a short ride over to Kerikeri to take a look at the Kemp House and the Stone Store, New Zealand's two oldest-surviving buildings. Now these buildings haven't changed in 20 years in fact they haven't changed a great deal since 1822.
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