Brazil Part 2- Longs and GB take Rio (New York style)

Touchdown Longs! I left Lou and Dais on Monday 18th May, saying our llama farewells at good ole Books in Lapa...although this was not to be the end, just a short separation period. I waved them off in their taxi as they left for their coach/boat to Ila Grande- a paradise island I sadly was not able to get to. It was the first time I'd properly been on my own and it felt really quite strange. I got in a taxi and made my way to 'Ipanema Beach House'- the hostel Longs and I would be staying in for the first 3 nights of our Rio take over. I checked into our private room, with our own en-suite- absolute luxury! Ipanema Beach House was without doubt one of the finer hostels I had stayed- at the back of the house and just outside of our private room was a courtyard with a clean pool, sun chairs, a paved path and outdoor tables and seating. It had a very relaxed atmosphere with guests ranging from travellers (those obviously willing to splash out a little more) to middle-aged women and men perhaps on holiday. Other than the unfriendly staff, Ipanema Beach House provided for Longs an ideal and comfortable little base and for me what felt like a luxury, 5 star retreat, inclusive with the most amazing hot shower and SPACE, to scatter ALL my belongings because I wasn't sharing it with anyone other than my Longs. Ipanema is the second most affluent neighbourhood in Rio and this was definitely apparent as I entered the neighbourhood in my taxi, passing the 'Tiffany Suite Apartments' and moreover, the restaurant options were out in force- it struck me as the 'western holiday hub'. This south zone neighbourhood is adjacent to Copacabana and Leblon. Leblon is THE most affluent neighbourhood in Rio and even more exclusive than Ipanema- consisting of large residential homes to the rich and famous. Our hostel was nestled within a quiet residential street, yet just around the corner Louis Vuitton poses as a doorway into the central shopping district. It felt instantly westernised and familiar. I liked how safe Ipanema felt and the familiar buzz surrounding the shops and beach definitely put me at ease. Longs and GB were very active and busy during their first few days! On our first evening we took the bus to Guanabara Bay, where we purchased our cable car tickets for the iconic peak- Sugarloaf Mountain. Of course the stunning panoramic views gave us no choice but to get obsessively snap happy. We made sure we went an hour or so before sunset (5-6pm) so we could truly enjoy the vision of Rio in its' final hour of daylight before witnessing the city immerse into a dark, seductive multi-coloured light display and of course capture Jesus lit up in all his glory. As if the first viewpoint on Morro da Urca hadn't provided magnificent views of the city, the second cable car ascends to Pao de Acucar where the 360-degree views are totally spectacular. It was a little crowded and snatching a front row spot proved a little competitive, but when Longs and GB are in town- they run the show. Sugarloaf was the perfect attraction to tick off on day 1 as it provided us/me with some sense of direction and offered a rough scale of the neighbourhoods and furthermore, enlightened us with how much this incredible city has to offer. We quite literally had seen a live 3D version of a Rio map. That evening we went for Sushi back in Ipanema and both Longs and GB agreed it was delicious. The next morning was the Favela Tour! We got picked up from our hostel at 10am; the sun was already scorching down with not a cloud in the sky. It took about 30 minutes to drive to Rocinha Favela where we would commence the tour. Rocinha is the largest favela in Rio and ironically it is located in the south zone so close to the city's wealth hub. The tour was absolutely fascinating and was no doubt one of my South American highlights. The motor-taxi ride to the top of the favela was one of those life empowering movie moments. Sat behind my driver, we weaved in and out of the disorderly traffic on the windy roads and as I was exposed to the complex assortment of chaotic construction, I felt so free and overwhelmingly humbled by everything I could see. The motor-taxi surprise began the tour with such a moment- Longs and I both agreed in our deep and emotionally exhilarated state that it was an experience never to be forgotten. From the top of the favela, the tour truly commenced. We began to work our way down the main road on foot, following it's every bend. Our tour guide was fantastic and talked so interestingly about the way of life of this city within a city. The views from the top were spectacular and it offered a real sense of the immense expanse of the sprawling favela. We were informed that the favela could not expand outwards as there was no space, however locals sell the plot above their homes and therefore, the buildings are growing upwards. Our first stop and second little surprise was dancing with 3 local schoolboys aged 17-18. The boys sang and clapped as they performed local dance traditions and amazing acrobatics- their animation and remarkable energy couldn't wipe a smile of my face. The boys were sweaty and clearly tired having just performed to a large tour party, yet they were so full of life and willing to entertain. We were partnered off and Longs and GB showed them just how white chicks dance (with no rhythm). I witnessed Longs attempting a cartwheel, which was probably one of the funniest things, and most pathetic cartwheels attempts I've ever seen. These boys were honestly so talented and their maturity was that of someone much older than themselves. As we continued to follow the road down and listening to our guide, it became clear that this truly is a city within a city. Rocinha is it's own community, with its own people, schools, sports centre, shops and cafes. Our next stop was a local nursery, where we entered during naptime. It was so adorable to see all the kids crashed out on their own individual 'sleep mats' as the teachers stood close by keeping a watchful eye. There were 3 classrooms, and one in particular, where a teacher was reading a children's book, really had me captivated. In that moment it just put so much into perspective. The teachers are offering these young children a chance at the best start in life and this little nursery, nestled between housing squalor and the upmost poverty, offers hope- these teachers are very special people. After leaving the nursery, we entered what our tour guide called 'the rat race'. We walked through the heart of the favela, minding our every step, ducking to avoid wires and often holding our breaths. The paths in between the slums were dark, stuffy and smelly. There was one moment were we passed an old, frail women in her bed sat right up against the window and she greeted us with a warm 'Hola' as we walked past. From the bottom of the favela, we stood on the highway bridge and soaked in Rocinha from an outside perspective. From the outside no roads are visible and it would be hard to believe that inside is a functioning way of community life. It looks anarchic and like a play dough city, yet for hundreds of thousands of people, this is home and their life. Later that day, tanning commenced and we hit up the glorious Ipanema beach! We discovered a delicious eatery that evening called Delirio Tropical- high quality healthy fast food salads and meats. We actually enjoyed it so much, and the price, so we returned for dinner a few days later! The following morning we made our way to Santa Teresa and checked in to Casa Cool Beans…wow! The double bed, en-suite, sofa, mini-fridge and space were all truly luxurious and a definite sign I had checked out of travelling and into a holiday! It was an absolute treat to be staying somewhere so beautiful but for my last nights in Rio and in fact on my entire 10-week adventure, to be with my Longs, I wouldn't of had it any other way! The owners and managers are extremely attentive and to say they go above and beyond with their welcoming nature and constant day-to-day assistance is an understatement. Their warmth and approach made our stay such a personable experience and didn't compare to a hotel. Santa Teresa is a quaint cobbled neighbourhood seated in a hill with views over Rio de Janeiro and furthermore, it's off the beaten tourist track and the Lapa and Gloria neighbourhoods sit at the bottom of the hill. It is a bohemian town teeming with galleries, eateries, bars and shops and is famous for its winding narrow streets. Unfortunately whilst we were there, the re-construction of the tram tracks were taking place, so it distracted from the serenity of this hidden, artsy gem. After checking in we went to the Botanical Gardens- somewhere I had already been with my llamas but fortunately a place where there is always something new to explore. We had lunch at the popular café/restaurant located just beyond the entrance into the gardens. I had the same goats cheese, parma ham and walnut salad I had chosen the time before with Lou and Dais and I must say it hit the spot once again. There was a food and crafts market set up indoor beside the café and after skipping around the beautiful gardens, swinging through the trees like Tarzan and Terk and all at a rapid pace because we only had 30 minutes before closing (we thought it closed at 6pm, not 5pm), we explored the market just as it was coming to an end. There was one young man selling his family's local Amazonian skincare and fragrance produce- all of course that he urged had natural healing properties. All the products were packaged in the most beautiful dried leaves and had I not been on such a budget, may have splashed out. We tasted some natural juices and sugarcane, which we soon realised, was to be sucked and not chewed. We wandered to Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon, also known as 'Lagoa' or 'The Heart of the City'. It was interesting to walk around the 2016 Olympic rowing site and picture how alive this area will be in just over a year's time! I must add however, that Longs and I did get a little nervy as the darkness and emptiness of the cycle path waded in and as it turns out our senses were on point as I have just read a trip advisor review stating to not be alone as on 19th May a 55 year old cyclist was stabbed to death…a little morbid but safety in Rio is an absolute top priority. We got a bus back and picked up dinner in Lapa from 'Box', a fast food salad and pasta bar that I had eaten the week before when I was staying in Books. The next morning we got up early, I had 'Friday's banana pancake' (YUM) and we got in our taxi to the big guy himself…Christ the Redeemer. We had organised our tickets already and it was smooth sailing to the train that would take us up Corcovado. It took about half an hour to reach the top and although mostly dense jungle, the odd break in trees provided snippets of the breath-taking views to come from the top. At the top, Christ the Redeemer stands bold over the entire city and instantly below is chaos of selfie madness. I swear every single person, including Longs and I, had either their phone, camera or selfie stick, desperate to capture the all-important memories to upload to Facebook, Instagram, Snapchat or Twitter. We got our Jesus selfie probably on the first take, but we proceeded to take 100 more and then decided to actually just take a moment and appreciate the astonishing views. This was doubtlessly the most extraordinary view of the city. After about 2 hours we decided that we had shared our moment with Jesus and we got a taxi to Escadaria Selaron. We walked into Lapa and got in a taxi that would finally take us up to Santa Teresa…although to our horror he hadn't put the metre on and charged us an extortionate fixed price. Things got a little heated as we were adamant we weren't going to pay the disgusting fee he'd handed us for a 4 minute taxi ride, however when we decided to get out his car, he did so too, grabbing some kind of baton from his car door pocket and at which point I don't think we were in any right mind to refuse. The banana and chocolate tapioca made up for it though. Tapioca is a starch extracted from cassava root, or so we kept getting told 'you must try the flower from the flower.' This was actually my third time having tapioca and admittedly I wanted to love it, but its spongy texture just didn't do it for me like a crepe does- I liked it but didn't love it. Longs had her first acai with granola and died and went to heaven. Let's talk more food. So that evening we went to a local Amazonian restaurant that is positioned towards the end of the restaurant belt in Santa Teresa called Espirito Santa. I had glazed passion fruit chicken, vegetables and coconut rice and it did not disappoint! We sat on the balcony at the back with views over Santa Teresa and savoured every mouth-watering taste. It was Friday night and Longs and GB were ready to show their all-new and improved Brazilian white chick moves off. We had been recommended a local salsa street party a taxi ride away and it took about 30 minutes to get there. Upon arrival, it was a little sketchy and looked 'too local' for us, however once we got the vibes and starting jamming with the live band, it was so much fun. There were local drink and food stalls aligning the cobbled streets and one Rasta we got speaking too after he'd put down his big fat doobie, was telling us he had lived in London. It was so strange to think he'd lived in the hustle and bustle of London and now here he was, shaking up our dirt cheap Caipirinhas in a little stall right outside his own front door in a local Rio neighbourhood. There were locals of all ages- one man who must have been in his 60s was jamming so hard, moving his feet all over the place and at one point he came over and tried to get Longs to 'feel the beat'…wasn't happening! I got a tap on my shoulder shortly after to discover three girls whom I'd met on the Mendoza horse trek through the Andes- they all live in Edinburgh and we have a couple of mutual friends, small world! It was a little uncomfortable standing on the street trying to get a taxi to take us back to Santa Teresa, we must have been refused about 7 times before one finally agreed we could get in. I should add that the language barrier in a situation like this, is extremely frustrating because we had no idea why so many wouldn't take us- is a taxi not suppose to take you from A to B? We later found out there had been a local shooting in Santa Teresa, although thankfully on the other side from where we were staying. We got dropped off a little walk from Casa Cool Beans and very unnerving was the sight of a local man whom we had seen hovering around staring at us earlier in the night. As we began to walk up, he began to follow. He crossed over to our side of the road and at which point I told Longs to bomb it to the gate and enter the code. As we were picking up the pace, so was he. I RAN and slammed the gate behind us. That was probably one of the scariest moments of my life. I was just so happy to be staying somewhere so secure and safe. The following day we had another cracking Cool Beans breakfast- diced fresh fruit, homemade cake, granola, and eggs, and lounged on the balcony in our sun chairs for most of the day. In the evening, Longs had booked dinner at Aprazivel- a beautiful restaurant that sits at the top of Santa Teresa with the most impressive views of Rio. The steps down to reception create an enchanting arrival and once on the restaurant level, the interiors and design of the seating ooze authenticity and intimacy and the views of sparkling Rio in the background pose as a special backdrop adding to the experience. I chose the beef medallions with spinach and banana, and Longs had a local Brazilian fish with rice- it was amazing! Longs claimed it as one of the best restaurants she'd ever eaten in and it was definitely the most memorable meal I'd had during my time in South America- the best saved till last! Sunday 24th May- 2 more sleeps left! Longs and I got the metro from Gloria to Ipanema to explore the famous 'Hippie Market' or more formally known as the 'Feira Hippie de Ipanema'. It is located at Square General Osorio where the metro entrance happens to be, and it takes place every Sunday. I have seen my fair share of markets during my time in South America and I must admit it didn't blow me away like the ones in Peru and Bolivia- perhaps the more stubborn sellers not willing to budge from the often expensive prices played a part. However, with that said, the collections of paintings and sculptures in the centre area and labyrinth of clothes, jewellery and handcrafted gems in the outer area are impressive and very tempting. I came away with a sarong and earrings, though I must admit Long's purchase of a Bob Marley incense holder was the winner! At around 11, we headed for Ipanema Beach and we couldn't of picked a better day. It was absolutely gorgeous and as it was Sunday, there was a fantastic buzz about the beach. After speaking with the owners at Casa Cool Beans, and together with our own perception, everyday in Rio is a Sunday. We had dinner at Delirio Tropical once again before getting a taxi back to Santa Teresa. That evening was slumbers with Lizzie McGuire- too nostalgic! Monday 25th- LAST DAY! There were no deliberations; our last day would be spent back on Ipanema beach, roasting our pale sensitive skin. We were blessed with another glorious day and just as we were about to crisp over, the sky turned a shade of white and we got the metro back. That evening we met up with my long lost llamas for dinner- we had booked into Espirito Santa again. As food had obviously been a constant talking point whilst travelling ('who's hungry?' 'Empanadas?' 'Chocolate?')- I was confident Amazonian cuisine would be a strong contender. It was so lovely to see Dais and Lou on not only our final night in Rio, but also our final night in South America after 10 weeks of travelling. Tuesday 26th- THE END. We had the best pre-flight chill out around the pool, blasting our over-exposed pores once more, before enjoying some acai and granola. We all shared a taxi to the airport and it wasn't quite as smooth sailing as Daisy would have liked- finding out not only that she was in a different terminal and would have to say her goodbyes all flustered, but later realising her airline and flight number didn't exist. She did thankfully make it to New Zealand and in one piece. Rio was the best city to end our adventure in. The golden beaches, lush mountains and samba-fuelled nightlife all generate the most vibrant energy. The attractions are endless, and top has to be be Christ the Redeemer, which is part of the new edition of the Seven Wonders of the World. The city is obviously filled with petty crime, but fortunately I was not victim to it, although I will admit I often felt unsafe. I still can't believe my South American adventure is over. I booked my flights 4 weeks before I was set to depart, and I managed to just about squeeze in injections and purchase last minute travel essentials. I must admit, after reading blogs people had written advising those gearing up for travelling, I felt a little out my depth when such ones highlight their 5 month preparations, including the absolute importance of the chosen backpack. How could I honestly cram months of preparation into 3 weeks…me, OCD Bex who is so organised? Well although at a push, I did and deciding to jump on that South American llama bandwagon was the best spontaneous decision I've ever made. I have seen and experienced some absolutely wonderful things, been exposed to the upmost poverty and been in challenging situations that have truly tested me. It sounds all a little cliché, but I have come home with unmatched memories and a feeling of fullness. The most important thing that has been reaffirmed is to enjoy every single moment. Don't be too caught up in the past, and don't chase the future, enjoy the NOW!