Crossing borders:
Peru-Bolivia
We decided to buy a 'Bolivia Hop' bus ticket from Cusco to La Paz. It was a little pricier than taking local buses/taxis, however we thought the $75 was definitely worth it and allowed us flexibility to 'hop off' and 'hop on' until reaching our final destination- La Paz. Arriving in Puno (south of Cusco, still in Peru) at 6am, we were given breakfast and a tour of the floating islands on Lake Titicaca (included in the bus ticket). Each island has a male leader and their way of life is basic to say the least. We went inside one of the thatched reed homes that not only smelt slightly peculiar, but houses an entire family- roughly the size of a British garden shed that one stores their bicycles, plants pots, gardening utensils and soil (look to Kevin Thompson's)! It was very apparent that the locals depend upon tourism. The tours occur daily and the locals are eager to greet the tourists from the moment they get off the boat. After being given a quick presentation on their way of life, the local women, dressed in traditional clothing, sit desperately by their handmade crafts in the hope that at least one tourist will make a purchase that day. I actually felt the tour was a little insincere as it displaces their indigenous and remote way of life and instead places emphasis on their dependence for tourism. I feel as though they have exploited their native heritage in order to make money and rather than living privately, their lives have become solely profit orientated and almost like a tourist shop. It made me less appreciative of the way they live.
Now into Bolivia, Isla del Sol is a very picturesque island in the daytime with beautiful views over the snow covered mountains, however at nighttime it became very deserted, lifeless and extremely cold! The local islanders convert their homes into hostels and restaurants and I suppose they make the rules, therefore if two stray llamas get blown in from the wind, out of breathe from the altitude, desperate for a hot drink...they can simply say no, just as one lady did to Lou and I. Why she refused us a coffee, we will never know. We slept in a room overlooking Lake Titicaca which was beautiful, however the drop in temperature and lifelessness of the place at nighttime made it a little less scenic but a magical little local experience all the same!
The following morning we got a boat back to Copacabana and engrossed in my book I ignored the traveller packed little boat rocking dramatically side to side, accepting that should we capsize I wasn't going to make it as I was buried right at the front under what may as well be body backpacks. But hooray I'm here to tell the tale! We stayed in Hotel Paraiso for 50 bolivianos (roughly £5) and that included our own room and beds, living the dream once again...or almost had the shower been warm! That evening would start an unfortunate sickness for me. I ate a tuna pizza, and must admit I enjoyed it so much I left only one slice (greedy bear). However, the following day, I gradually became more and more unwell- sick with Mummy make it all better tummy pains (never too old for Mumma). To make it worse, we were getting on a 4-6 hour bus journey to La Paz that evening. Copacabana is a bustling little coastal town and positioned on Lake Titicaca, it is very idyllic. Yet, I wouldn't recommend staying for long as I didn't personally feel there was all that much to see or do. I felt like it was more of a one night stop off destination for tourists travelling north into Peru or south like us, to La Paz. We were fortunate enough to be there for the first day of holy week, where for a week only once a year, Bolivians descend on Copacabana for what i'd describe as a coastal funfair- endless markets, food stalls, water games and camping are all common scenes along Lake Titicaca. Regrettably I couldn't appreciate the atmosphere and even more devastating, the food, because I wasn't well. I experienced another possible 'not going to make it' scenario that evening on the bus (being ill was giving me a seriously vivid imagination). About an hour into the coach journey to La Paz, we were told that rather than getting off the coach and onto a boat to cross the water, all the passengers were to shut the curtains and pretend there was nobody on the bus as this meant we didn't have to get off and back on the coach at the other side- it was taking a long time to cross due to holy week. In my delirious sickness head space, I accepted that once again I had chosen the worst seat on the bus should the bus topple into the water as being sat right at the back meant no way of escaping and definite drowning positioning (sorry Mum and Dad this is morbid). I felt like I was in an episode of CSI as the driver called 'nada' to security, answering to 'no passengers' and what came next was the sound of exile chains clamping the bus wheels to the ferry. Peeping out the BACK window all I could see was waving water and as we sat as still and silently as possible waiting to depart, the boat rocked viperously side to side similarly to the smaller island boat, however being sat on a coach rocking side to side on water made me extremely uneasy. Good news though, as once again i'm here to tell the rambling CSI tale!
The Adventure Brew hostel in La Paz was one of my favourites so far, despite feeling fatigued after climbing one flight of stairs due to the altitude. The food was yummy (once I could stomach it) and the atmosphere in the hostel very chilled. I must admit I wasn't sure what to make of La Paz at first. It is an extremely congested city built up in Miraflores and slums pour out over the valley and surrounding mountains. The buildings are mostly poorly developed and unfinished- the cable car ride made this very clear to see. With that said, it did warm on me and the markets are just too tempting...especially for this shopaholic (admittedly). I was struck down with my tummy bug for most of my time in La Paz, however on the last night with my appetite back in full swing, I demolished a shepherds pie that was absolutely incredible. Thanks to Josh, the bar manager at the hostel (from Liverpool), we were introduced to a British pub in La Paz and all indulged in some hearty home comfort food! The following evening we were to take an overnight bus to Uyani where we would commence our 3 day/2 night Salt Flat tour.
The Salt Flats were absolutely...wow! We began our tour on Wednesday 8th April after getting off the overnight bus from La Paz that travelled bumpily over unpaved 'roads'. In our group was a spanish lady and the most dorky, yet adorable Swedish couple called Tracy and Eric. Our tour guide who became known as 'amigo' was to lead our little family for the 3 day/ 2 night adventure. He spoke only spanish, however the llamas were in luck as the others could translate for us. We were so lucky with our group, it was a lovely little mix of people and we bonded over President a****** (card game). On the first day we saw an abandoned train wreck and the Salt Flats that admittedly I had really high expectations for, but were without a doubt met! I was bewitched by the expanse and formation of the dried up lake. Jeeps in the distance looked as though they were floating and the surrounding mountains posed perfectly in the background for postcard pictures. The first night we stayed in a refuge made of salt and a local woman cooked up a delicious broth for starter and chicken, chips and deep fried banana for main. Eric introduced us to President a******...and the rest is history. The following morning we were heading deep into high altitude volcano territory and into 'National Reserve of Andean Fauna Eduardo Abaroa.' We saw Laguna Colorada, the Stone Tree, Laguna Verde, many volcanoes and Flamingoes! The scenery was mesmerising; I felt completely in awe as we crossed vast desert in the jeep and utterly lost amongst the backdrop of blue sky and inspiring snow covered volcanoes. With 7 years experience 'amigo' knew exactly where we were going- all the 'attractions' along the way. Fellow off roaders also on tours would be the indication that another attraction was approaching and these also marked the only spots for any other human activity. Amigo would explain a little about the attraction and we would hop out and take endless pictures before moving onto the next location that could be 15 minutes or 2 hours away (toilet stops were amongst mother nature). Despite being in the same perimeters as fellow tourists at the stop offs, in the jeep and gazing out at the surrounding desert landscape and volcanoes, I still felt completely lost and insignificant to the incredible backdrop. Our second refuge had us all slumbering in the same room, girlie sleepover club style. We had a delicious broth for starter once again which was even more appreciated than the first night as it was freezing, followed by a vegetable spaghetti dish. We all turned in fairly early as our final day would demand a 4am rise. But oh my, the demanding early rise was so worth it, not to mention the pancakes to kick start the day! We saw geysers and active volcanic activity and after not showering, the hot springs were an absolute dream- who needs a bath with an origins exfoliator when you can jump into a hot spring and exfoliate with the grainy stones and furthermore with volcanoes in the background as the sun is rising...a definite 'we've made it' moment, I mean has Beyonce even been there and done that? The Salt Flat tour is without a doubt one of my highlights so far. I am already nostalgic for our little lunch breaks, amigo dropping down the jeep boot and presenting hot food, whilst we sit amongst Flamingoes and volcanoes and staring up at the clear nights sky, spellbound by the glowing eyes of the Milky Way.
The three llamas are currently in San Pedro de Atacama in CHILE. First impression- I love Chile.