Heading to Buenos Aires came with a variety of dire warnings. "Watch out becuase small children will spit on you and then swipe your bag whilst distracted!"... "Don't go to La Boca or you'll get mugged and shot!"... "Don't speak anything other than Spanish after dark or you'll probably end up in hospital!... All this from Argentinians - the supposed heralds of their own nation. What we found on arrival was not remotely close to reports. Instead we found a thriving, energetic and relaxing city that we both fell in love with. (It's worth indicating here that we were staying in Palermo - the leafy upper class, garden filled suburb - and didn't stray too far into deeper parts of the city; so BA may have that grubby underbelly, we just didn't see it.)

The first thing that hits you is the European architecture. I had read about this and thought it might be mildly interesting to see Italian and French influences this far into South America; but actually being here and soaking up the grandeur of the hulking buildings alongside the tree-lined cobblestone-paved lanes is something else. It's cool! We definitely recommend a stroll down Defensa in San Telmo on Sunday. The street comes alive with some of the best markets we've ever encountered, and the packed out street alongside the beautiful old buildings make for a spectacular morning.

Staying in Palermo also afforded Sjane the luxury of being able to run again! The parks that line the northern edge of Palermo are filled with rose-gardens, outdoor gyms and lakes. And hundreds of locals walking, running, rollerblading and cycling along the pathways. More than once we set off in one direction for a park and ended up ambolling around kilometres from where we intended to be, but at no point did we feel uncomfortable. Well I felt uncomfortable because we'd been running for over two hours and I'm not as fit as I once was, but that's another issue entirely.

But let's be honest, being in Buenos Aires for me was all about the steaks! Food in general in this Argentinian metropolis exceeded my expectations in every way.

First of all, dulce de leche is right up my alley! It's condensed milk thats been cooked and thickened and is used as a filling for biscuits, as well as a spread for breads and other baked goods. Mmmmmm!

Along this same train of thought are alfajores! These are melting moment style biscuits filled with dulce de leche and topped with icing sugar. Even Sjane had to admit that these calorie-filled babies are worth going for an extra run for.

Argentinians have also mastered the art of ice-creamery. Whether you prefer the classics (chocolate, vanilla, strawberry), or something a little more out there (almond, dulce de leche, mango and meringue); you're pretty much guaranteed to have the best ice cream of your life here.

Ok, now the meat! Desnivel in San Telmo delivered our first Argentinian steak experience. I was in a happy place with my rib rack, and we both fell in love with chimichurri. Next came Las Cabras in Palermo: with its smoky melt-in-your-mouth bife de lomo, massive sides of salad and chips (papas fritas), and the best fresh-made lemonade in the entire world. Needless to say the food coma afterwards was oh-so-good! Beefy dreams! Last but not least was our choripan from the San Telmo markets. This foodie experience was highly rated by our new travel buddy Sanne, and it delivered! Imagine big juicy sausages cooked over hot coals, cut down the middle and slapped between two halves of a baguette. Then top with a good slathering of chimichurri, chilli and other condiments, and there you have it. Heaven in a sausage! The accompanying musical trio on electric guitar, accordion (finally remembered what those bloody things are called!) and vocals truly set the scene for us.

Buenos Aires is the first city I've been to that I really understood why people love it so much. Spectacular!