Blog entry number three, we promised a shorted entry but Im not sure we´ll be able to keep our side of the bargain. You could save yourself the below reading and we could summarise for you : WE LOVED PERU! But if you have some time and dont have anywhere to be for a little while then read on....

We left San Jose on a flight to Lima airport where we had a six/seven hour layover. We thought we´d be able to catch up on a bit of sleep while we waited for our connection flight but it turned out to be painful. Everytime we found a quiet corner to sleep one of the cleaners would wake us up and move us in order to clean so needless to say we were happy to get on our flight to Cusco and complete our journey in Peru. The flight coming into Peru was amazing - the plane flew through the Andes and to see the snow topped mountains out the window of the plane was a memory that will stay with us. Once we landed we made our way to our hostel, because we had arrived at 7.00am we couldnt check in so we were handed a little map and told to "come back please" at 11.00. The map to me was double dutch but Rob has the map thing down to a T and navigated us to what was marked on the map as the main square of the area. Again it was 7 in the morning so we werent expecting to much but when we found the square we found it a hub of activity. We didnt know at the time but we landed in Cusco just in time for the Cusco festival. All communities and schools were to take part in festivities for a full fornight. All of Cusco was out in force and you´ll see from the pictures the colours, patterns, head-dresses and general allure of the festivites was like nothing we have at home! From small children to old men and women all proud to be wearing their traditional dress. Needless to say our first impressions of Cusco got off to a very good start, so much so that we had to drag ourselves away to head back to the hostel for some much needed sleep. The one thing about Cusco that the pictures wont show is the difference between the heat of the tropical sun and the cold when in the shade caused by the altitude of the city, lucky enough for us the altitude wasnt really an issue, we had given ourselves plenty of time to aclimatise but thankfully didnt need it so we were able to kick back for four days and enjoy the party atmosphere in the city before our Lares trek to Machu Picchu.

On Thursday the 14th we were picked up by our tour guide "the awesome Freddy" that was our name for him anyway, we were picked up at stupid o´clock in the am and before the sun came up a little group of seven trekkers headed off into the Andean wilderness, hoping for the best and equiped with all the mod cons - toilet roll, shee-wees and the likes. ( Dont laugh - this was a major topic of conversation amoungst the girls on more than one occasion. The boys were also happy to give their thoughts on the pros and cons of such essential kit). Again we got so lucky with our fellow travellers on this trip, we all got on really well and it definately made the few days easier. Our fellow trekkers were Nolene, Matt, Ann, Anthony and Camile along with Freddy our guide and a team of porters who honestly lived up to and beyond any expectation we possibly could have had.

After stopping for final provisions ( beautifully coloured ponchos which werent used on this trip in the end but are bound to make an appearance at some stage) our trekking started from a remote hillside at 9.30am at an altitude of 3,800 meters. By lunchtime we had made it to 4,200meters walking through and over amazing landscape through feilds and on rough hiking tracks that were met on one side in some places by sheer drops to the mountain side below. At this point it sounds easy enough and Rob did make it look like it was, but myself and Ann had found ourselves a happy little pace right at the back. You could say this was to ensure that we really took in all the landscape but no we were just a little slower than the rest of the group. Not having done it before altitude was a big issue, the steps you take are small and constant. We all agreed that the distance was do-able in an easy pace had we been at home but these conditions were so different that everyone had to find their own pace and stick with it. The views from the first mountain top were amazing it was hard to comprehend that we were already so high and were infact at a higher altitude than Machu Picchu itself which came as a surprise.

As we approached lunchtime on the first day we decided to take a short cut (Freddy decided) down to camp, everyone was so hungry and ready for a break that we were all happy at the thought of a shortcut´, no one more than me until I found myself half way down a mountain side (cant stress enough actual mountain side ...it was STEEP) all was going ok (well would be an overstatement) until my knee twisted and popped out of place. Devastation- I couldnt go up, I couldnt go down, I nearly slipped twice which almost made me poop my pants. Rob came back from where he had stopped to try an get me but I had made my way to a section which wasnt really easy to get to when coming back up the mountain. What should have been a short cut was now taking nearly an hour (Rob is giggling beside me as I write this) Its one of those things that is now quite funny but JESUS CHRIST - F$&%KING PETRIFIED!!!! Out of nowhere Freddy appeared and helped us down the hill. On a totally seperate point ( we go back to the knee later) the lunch was absolutly stunning!

After lunch we decided to walk an extra two hours to make the following day that little bit easier for us as day two is the longest distance to walk over the trek as a whole. As nightime fell we made our way to camp for the first night which was at 4,100 meters. We camped by a lakeside and again the service of the travel company we were with was second to none. Once at camp everyone made there way into their tents to put an extra few layers on as the tempreture had dropped drastically, the stars had come out and as we sipped on hot tea we were able to take a minute to appreciate just how much we had accomplished in one day. The porters brought us some popcorn and buscuits to enjoy while we waited for dinner, it was a real treat. After a hard and full day walking any food would have been met with delight but the food that was served up was above and beyond. We thought we lucked out with the lunch but the dinner was stunning. After dinner it was pretty much straight to bed as we were knackered and had an early start. (Somewhere over the course of the night it dropped to -7 and we all felt it especially poor Ann who had a sleeping bag that was only good for 0 -20 degrees!

Day two was the toughest - it was a long slog, we had camped at 4,100 we had to trek back up to altitudes of the day before and then higher again. So back to the knee - after three hours of an uphill (up mountain) battle and at about 4,300 meters my knee gave up, it was difficult to pick it up off the ground. I really thought that I would be able to ignore it for long enough to make the summit on foot. It had been bad since the day before and the cold didnt help. I was walking so slow I figured I could do it but in the space of about 20mins it went from impractically doable to impossible! I was gutted! I told Rob and Freddy and back up was called for ( this is going to give my girls and David MacDonald almost too much ammo to use at their leisure!) Freddy called for a horse to be sent down from the summit but ..... wait for it a mule showed up. Honestly if I wasnt so devastated at not being able to walk the last bit it would have been funny. Because the "transport" was on its way Freddy insisted that Rob continue up the mountain while he waited with me. Rob kaned that last bit of the mountain, he had to keep stopping to check on me earlier in the day but generally his way would be to keep going and not stop until he reaches his designated spot. I could see him kick the mountains ass and was so proud. He looked like he was taking a leisurely stroll from where I was sitting.

At 4,600 meters my ass got me all the way to the top (giggle at your will). Rob and the rest of the gang were waiting and together we trekked down the other side for lunch. Two other groups made it to the summit at the same time as us and it was nice to swop stories on the way down of how we had done. The rest of the day was much easier in comparison to the morning, we slept at 4,000 meters that night all satisfied that we had reached 4,600 meters (in one way or another :) ).

Day three was the wrap up of the trekking a leisurely two hour descent to our lunch before making our way to Ollayantatambo and then on to Auguas Callientes where we enjoyed the luxary of a warm shower and bed (not entirely sure what happened to the homestay but honestly I think we lucked out with the hostel).

We were up for 4.00am on day four to get a quick breakfast then we made our short trip to Machu Picchu before sun rise. Everthing you´ve seen, read and heard about Machu Picchu is true. Its just stunning. We took tonnes of photos and loved every minute of it. Freddy was with us for a two hour guide before we had to say goodbye to him, he had so much knowledge and was so proud of the heritage of the area that you couldnt help but get caught up in it all. Im not going to tell his stories here but we will bore people when we get home so get prepared!! I even took a walk to the Sun Gate which had a hairy few sections of walkway but I needed to make up for the horse!! My leg had recovered somewhat but once we left Machu Picchu we decided to walk back to the town which meant we had to walk down the steepest steps ever carved for what felt like forever but was probably only an hour before a 25 min walk on straight ground back to the hostel. Poor Ann had somehow picked up two black nails on each of her big toes, which meant we got to enjoy the back of the group together again. It was so painful but the two of us and Rob had such a giggle going down the mountain side. I think it was pain induced euphoria! By the time we got to the bottom again I was back to jelly legs.

We slept most of the trip back to Cusco but had honestly enjoyed every second of it! Its definately recommended to the trekkers amongst you.

Our last days in Cusco were spent making chocolate at a Chocolate Factory, - yes thats right its no mountain climb but it was soooooo much fun, I made chocolate sweets and Rob made chocolate bars, he even won some chocolate tea for being the best choco bean grinder in our group... insert your own joke here! We also went to the Cusco Planitarium which was unreal. It´s a family run enterprise and they are so enthusiastic you cant help but get excited. They had two really big telescopes and showed us constilations, nebula and planets. I think Saturn stole the show for both me and Rob-it was so clear we could see the rings around it and two of its moons. It was really special. The group we were with were all standing around the telescopes wrapped in blankets looking up at the night sky where so much is hidden from the naked eye. It was a definate highlight.

On Tuesday night we took our first overnight bus from Cusco to Arequipa. We were sad to leave Cusco but excited to be on a bus with a bed. I´ve said it before and I´ll say it again - the 46a has a lot to learn.

We´ve been here two days now and leave first thing in the morning to make our way to Tacna where we hope to cross the boarder into Chile. Arequipa is quiet nice if a little slow compared to the hussle and bussle of Cusco, we were lucky with a really nice hostel and loads of people to chat to but we´re both ready to find our next little adventure now.

Highlight of the last two days - our clothes have been washed!

Taste sensations - We´ll start this one with a formal apology to all Camp Titi members, somehow we forgot two essential things which made food/drink so much more enjoyable on camp. First - the amazingness that is Complete Food Seasoning (THANKS DAN) how could we have forgotten. Think of it as mixed herbs with some MSG that makes all food happy and smiley. Also we forgot Tang which is like a dried fruit drink flavouring that comes in 101 flavours.

As for new taste sensations -

Cerviche - a raw fish dish served with lemon or lime juice that cooks the fish. Dan again I know you were all over this in Puerto Jimenez but when it comes out of a chefs tent up the side of a mountain - BOOM! Dulce de leche deep fried treats - this little pocket of lovelyness costs 1 sole and probably has 100 calories but is worth every bit. Its like a brandy snap of deep fried batter with the dulce filling brimming out of its centre. Jungle potatoes - kind of like a yam or a dehydrated potato but really tasty when tossed in flour and fried. Quinoa porridge made with apple and cinnamon - yum. Inka Cola - too delicious for words. Coca Tea - actually when made right is really tasty. Its made from the leaf of the coca plant and when blended with lemon and hot water works really well to help with the altitude. Natural Coca leaves - yuck! Seco de Cordero - Peruvian Lamb Stew with Potatoes - really tasty. Cheese Ice-Cream- totally delicious mostly because its not made with cheese! Sublime- a nice little chocolate bar to assist a cup of tea. Chocolate Tea- if this stuff was sold at home Lyons and Barrys would go out of business.

Music of this section of the trip - Swedish House Mafia- Save the World. Santigold-Disparate Youth, Neawton Falkner - Dream Catch Me, Paolo Nutini - New Shoes (The cleaners in the hostel were made for this song - it took over from Kes´ Desmond Decker). Peruvian song, artist unknown, title of song "Linda". It was lucky the bus doors were locked from the outside or we´d all have thrown ourselves out of the bus! We´ve also heard some good spanishy salsa music which hasnt been to bad. Oh and Backstreet Boys -I want it that way.

Airport searches to date - Rob 4 : Leah 2 (the sniffer dog smelt my turkey sub!!!!!) How embarrassing! Also I forgot to take the cutlery out of my day bag, we got to keep the spoons though!

OK we have to catch a bus in 5 hours and still have to pack so we´ll sign out for now. Thanks for all the messages and emails so far. Keep them coming its lovely to hear from you all.

P.S we´ve found four irish bars so far one of which we watched the matches in - what the hell happened there?

Love Lee and Rob.x