The First Rule of Anywhere is, of course, to sit still. And that's what I'm doing in that hammock in the picture. I've just had my lunch delivered to me and watched a horse go for a drink in the lake. Then, I witnessed a fight between a squirrel and a blue-tailed magpie (urraca) for the scraps of my sandwich. The magpie won the territorial fight, the squirrel retreating at pace, but it's still a bit uncertain about how close the bread is to the hammock. More...

If you're on bookface, you'll have seen the picture of the volcanoes of Ometepe. The island is simply those volcanoes and I think I need to go to see them in a bit of detail. Those of you familiar with my previous motorbike adventures will be aware that 'accident-prone' just about covers it. So it makes complete sense to hire one. To give you a steer on some omens for this adventure (on an Island that traditional Indians regard as full of such stuff) there ar...