Argentina NOV 2014

Buenos Aires 4/11 to 7/11

We arrived in Buenos Aires with a feeling of excitement and were whisked off to the Pestana hotel, our home for the next three nights. Although exhausted after the 13 hour flight we soldiered on, walking around Plaza de Mayo and seeing the pink facade of the presidential palace Casa Rosada, where the late Eva Peron addressed her people. The sun was beating down on us and the sky was azure blue, which was a dramatic improvement to the torrential rain and flooding that happened the previous week. After a long and hot walk we reached Puerto Madero which is the renovated docklands area. We had lunch at one of the restaurants along the promenade and rewarded ourselves with the first of many glasses of delicious Malbec wine. In the early evening we went to La Boca to see the football ground of the Boca Juniors team. Many famous Argentinian players like Maradona and Messi played for this team. We also wanted to see all the colourfully painted houses this area is renowned for. Unfortunately, the place was deserted and it felt like we were very much alone in what appeared to be a rather unsavoury part of town. The lack of taxis impeded our swift exit but soon enough we hightailed it out of there and made our way back to Puerto Madero where we had dinner at Happening restaurant. A bottle of Malbec and half a cow later, our bellies were well and truly full and we were ready to fall into bed.

Refreshed and revitalised, we were ready to begin our three week adventure in Argentina. To acclimatise and find our bearings we did a half day city tour with our guide Annabel. The tour also included a visit to the cemetery in Recoleta where Eva Peron is entombed. It was so peaceful and beautifully maintained. We also went to La Boca, a typically Italian district which lays claim to being the birthplace of Tango in the 1880's. Our guide informed us that tourists generally visit the area during the day and it is advisable to leave before sunset. This made sense as the streets were now filled with people enjoying the colourful atmosphere. It was a complete transformation from yesterday evening. There was a buzz in the air and locals were selling their wares whilst dancers persuaded passers-by to attempt the tango. In the afternoon we decided to visit the MALBA museum of modern art but prior to that we witnessed a mugging outside of our hotel. It left us a little shaken and feeling sorry for the lady who had her watched ripped off her wrist. It happened so fast that no one could've reacted without endangering themselves. Safely tucked away in the museum in a posher part of town, we thoroughly enjoyed the exhibit of Berni, followed by a leisurely stroll in a park in the Palermo area to see the giant flower structure. It was created to open its petals at sunrise and to close them at sunset. Sadly it no longer works but it is still impressive. We also saw an abundance of dog walkers around town. Argentinians love their dogs and apparently it's a job that pays well. It really is an impressionable sight to witness 10 to 20 pooches of varying size and breed being escorted around the city by a well-toned and patient canine lover. We ended our afternoon with an espresso at Cafe Biela opposite the cemetery. Its history dates back to the 1800's and was a famous haunt of the racing driver Manuel Fangio. After a little siesta we eagerly anticipated a fun evening of dinner followed by a tango show at El Viejo Almacent in the San Telmo barrio. During our meal we befriended a lone Japanese lady who was dining with her two stuffed pandas called Christopher and Angel, which she brings along on all her travels. Although slightly quirky, she was very sweet and even gave us the rest of her wine. The tango show took place in a small theatre across from the restaurant so after dinner we all filed in and took our seats. We sat on the balcony and had a great view of the stage below. From our vantage point we could see the Japanese lady sitting in the back row with her slippers on, nursing a glass of wine and nodding off at regular intervals. The show was amazing and the dancers were sensational. The tango is a sultry and passionate dance which requires a fierce chemistry between two people to ensure its authenticity. It was truly mesmerising and a fantastic end to an eventful day.

Today is our last day in Buenos Aires and we decided to spend the day relaxing and doing the last bit of sightseeing in this bustling city. We did a bit of window shopping on the busy pedestrianized shopping street, Calle Florida before returning to San Telmo and La Boca for our last visit of these colourful and lively neighbourhoods. We had an interesting cab journey back to our hotel, with an obnoxious driver who practically threw us out of his cab when we tried to pay our fare. A lot of his angry rant was lost in translation but when we were back in our room, we discovered that we tried to pay him with a fake bank note. Oh my word, how embarrassing. Who knows how we got ripped off but we certainly needed to be more vigilant. Once we checked all our notes for the valid watermark and confident that we would not suffer further embarrassment we made our way back to Puerto Madero for our last meal in Buenos Aires at Estilo Campo Parilla.

Ushuaia 7/11 to 10/11

We arrived in Ushuaia and were met with a bracing and strong wind. We will definitely need our winter wardrobe here. It is situated on the wild, desolate and windswept island of Tierra del Fuego beyond which lies Antarctica. Ushuaia is the most southerly city in the world and has a picturesque location facing the Beagle Channel. Once we checked into our hotel, Mil810 we walked around to buy souvenirs and photograph the town against a beautiful backdrop of the snow-capped Cerro Martial mountain range. It is an interesting and laid back place, where you really do get the feeling that you are at the end of the World. We had dinner at La Cantina Fueguina de Freddy, a small and tightly packed restaurant which specialises in giant king crabs.

The next morning we had a half day excursion to the Tierra del Fuego National Park. It is a protected area of jagged mountains, lakes and forests and has some rare wildlife such as Magellanic woodpeckers, beavers, torrent ducks and condors. We visited Bahia Ensenada, Roca Lake and Lapataia Bay, as well as gently hiking through the park surrounded by beautiful vistas and landscapes as far as the eye can see. In the afternoon we strolled around town and took some amazing reflection shots of Ushuaia from the still water of Bahia Encerrada. After our photo shoot we had a lovely dinner at Maria Lola. Its location was perfect to enjoy the view of the bay below whilst sipping a lovely Sauvignon Blanc from Patagonia and dining on seafood.

Today we are navigating through the icy waters of the Beagle Channel, passing the Les Eclaireurs Lighthouse and Isla Lobos, a large sea lion colony followed by a stop to Martillo Island to see the Magellanic Penguins. On board, we met a lovely chatty couple from Yorkshire who were regaling us with stories of their adventures as well us giving us loads of tips for our next destinations. They were so charming and their exuberance was so endearing. The

next stop was the 19th century Estancia Haberton, built by the Reverend Thomas Bridges. It is now run by one of his great grandsons Tommy Goodal and his wife Natalie. We walked around part of the Estancia and the grounds before heading back to Ushuaia for our last fish supper at Freddy's. The gale force winds and rain drove us back to our hotel for an early night and we spent the evening listening to the howling and fierce wind, wondering if our plane would even make it off the ground the next day. It's the mish mash of architectural styles, extreme weather and hardy yet friendly locals that make Ushuaia a surprisingly welcome and special place. Its proximity to the cold, silent and haunting beauty of Antarctica is yet another draw and one that we would love to one day explore.

El Calafate 10/11 to 13/11

We drove from the airport through dry and barren land without any expectations. However, when we arrived at our hotel, Hosteria La Estepa perched on top of a hill, we were rendered completely speechless. The view from our room and the patio was absolutely breath taking and you could look out the picture windows for hours, drinking in the view of Lago Argentino and the surrounding landscape. Armed with hats, scarves and gloves to protect us from the strong and chilling wind, we walked along the coastal road to Riserva Laguna Nimez, a bird watcher's paradise. It is a unique wetland which holds a rich biodiversity of Patagonian birds and plants. From the hideouts we saw the beautiful pink flamingos gracefully walking and feeding on the lake as well some of the 100 bird species nesting in this area. Famished, tired and with aching limbs we made our way into town to have dinner. After being turned away from several restaurants due to not having a reservation we climbed a hill with fingers crossed, to the last recommended restaurant on our list hoping not to be turned away. Finally after a 3 hour walk and a thousand bird pictures later we were sat at a table with a window view overlooking the sparkly lights of the town below.

The next morning we visited the Perito Moreno Glacier which lies 80km west of Calafate. It remains one of the worlds only advancing glaciers. We boarded a rather small boat to see the glacier up close. Wrapped up in our entire winter garb we braved the wind, snow and rain to capture the impressive glacier. Wet and cold but exhilarated we drove to the Los Glaciares National Park to view the glacier from a different perspective. The network of walkways allows you to get up close to the glacier and offers spectacular views from the viewing balconies. We eagerly walked around taking snap shots from every possible angle, amazed by this thing of beauty before us. The majesty of this glacier and the power within it is truly awesome. It started snowing heavily but undeterred we carried on, making sure that we captured every single moment.

The next morning we drove to Puerto Bandera pier for our boat ride, navigating Lago Argentino to the Upsala Glacier which remains South America's longest glacier. We sailed through milky blue waters, passing incredible icebergs floating delicately on the icy lake. The landscape was phenomenal and the blue icebergs created an eerie and serene focal point. After our cruise we jumped onto 4 x 4 jeeps and scaled the rough mountain terrain for a bird's eye view of the glacier. The wind was insanely fierce and blew us constantly sideways into the rocks. It was a challenge just to remain upright and it was impossible to take any stable photographs. Mother Nature is magnificent but remains a force to be reckoned with. We had a picnic style lunch at Picturesque Estancia Christina, founded in 1914 by Joseph Percival Masters, an Englishman who came to Patagonia with his wife in search of a promising future. Our guide, Augustino was so informative and knowledgeable. His engaging and passionate demeanour was intoxicating and his rugged good looks greatly improved the already glorious surroundings. Once we were back in our hotel we took full advantage of yet another amazing view and settled in for a relaxing and tranquil evening of good wine and delicious food.

El Calafate has surpassed our expectations and whilst soaking up the relaxed mood and gorgeous view one final time before our onward flight, we felt genuinely sad to be leaving.

Bariloche 13/11 to 16/11

Bariloche is a pretty town with an Alpine feel. It is a good base to explore the Argentinian Lake District and is set on the shores of Lago Nahuel Huapi, backed up against Cerro Otto. The roots of Bariloche come from German and Swiss settlers which is why the region is known for its chocolate and breweries. We stayed in Hosteria Las Marianas which is a small and cosy guesthouse close to town.

The next morning, Romina our guide drove us around to explore some of the stunning scenery of the area. We walked in the woodland, listening out for the trill of the Chucao and trying to spot the elusive giant woodpeckers. We went up the chairlift at Cerro Campanario to see the views. It was quite a scary feeling being suspended in mid-air, on what felt like a rickety rocking chair. The stunning views from the top made it all worth it and we spent a few moments drinking in the scene of the lakes below us. In the afternoon we walked around town and saw the Civic Centre with its alpine style architecture as well as doing a bit of shopping and indulging on a chocolate truffle or two. In the evening we went to Kandahar for dinner. It is a small and cosy restaurant with an eclectic and romantic feel to it. The food was amazing and the melt in your mouth steak was to die for. It was hands down, the best steak we have eaten in Argentina thus far.

The next morning we hopped on the local bus which took us along the coastal road to the famous hotel Llao Llao which is perched on a hill top and surrounded with a backdrop of mountains and crystal blue lakes. We spent the day walking around, being one with nature and ended up doing a 3 hour hike up Cerro Llao Llao. The climb up the mountain was a tad bit strenuous but completely forgotten once you reached the summit. To enjoy the breath taking scenery on our own was awesome and allowed us ample opportunity to increase our selfie collection. After a beautiful and tranquil day we headed to a popular pub called Manush where we sampled the delicious Milk stout. It was like drinking a meal in a glass, so when we eventually had dinner at Jauja we struggled to finish our food. Incredibly full and walking very slowly, we gradually made our way up the steep hill to our guesthouse for our last night's sleep in Bariloche.

Mendoza 16/11 to 19/11

We arrived in Mendoza, land of sunshine and good wine, ready to enjoy three days of rest and relaxation. We stayed at Club Tapiz which is set in a vineyard with a view of the snow-capped Andes in the distance. The hotel is small and intimate with an idyllic and tranquil setting. It is the perfect location for a uniquely personal experience. Paradise was beckoning and we were willing and eager to be a part of it. In the evening we enjoyed an Informal wine tasting where we met 3 lovely English friends and fell in love with a Malbec Rose. We had a four course dinner at our hotel and were amazed at the quality and standard of the dishes served. After dinner, whilst sitting outside on the patio enjoying the balmy evening, we met a Swedish wine writer and connoisseur who shared a bottle of wine with us. It certainly wasn't the best red we've ever had but his charm, intellect and interesting conversation, made for a fun and rather unexpected encounter.

The next morning we had a 9am pick up for a full day of wine tasting in the Maipu and Lujan region. It seemed a bit early to start drinking, but as we were in Mendoza we just went with the flow. The first stop was at Luigi Bosca, where a delightfully fizzy rose tickled our taste buds and became our first wine purchase. The next stop was Alta Vista, a listed historical 19th century bodega. During the wine tasting, we found ourselves drawn to an aged Malbec we just couldn't say no to. Feeling rather tipsy, we set off for the third and final stop of our wine tour. Lagarde is one of the oldest wineries in the Mendoza region with Malbec vines over 100 years old. At this stage, we were rather intoxicated and the 37 degree heat made us feel very lethargic. We were quite glad to be eating soon. Here we had a five course lunch washed down with a further selection of wine to taste with every course. It had been a fantastic day and our taste buds were well and truly tantalised, but now it was time to head back to Club Tapiz for a chill out session. In the evening after yet another wine tasting, we had a relaxing and lovely evening and fell into bed tired, dreaming of grapes.

The following day after a lovely breakfast we headed into Mendoza to walk around the city and to stock up on bubble wrap. There is no way we were leaving without a few bottles of wine from this amazing region. We spent a few hours wandering around the leafy and green squares and avenues and had a wonderful lunch at Azafran. Then we came straight back to our hotel to cool off in the pool and enjoy the tranquil atmosphere. We had to take full advantage of our last afternoon in paradise. The evening followed much the same pattern as the previous nights and we indulged once more on the regions specialities. Packing with a heavy heart and feeling very sad we had an early night as the next morning we were flying to Iguazu.

Iguazu 19/11 to 21/11

Today is the last leg of our journey which is a little depressing as it means we are getting closer to the end. We had to fly back to Buenos Aires to catch a connecting flight to Iguazu. Everything was going so well until we found out our flight was cancelled which left us stranded at the airport for 8 hours. Audley really came through for us and made all the necessary arrangements for our onward journey. They have really taken all the hassle and stress out of what could have been a very challenging day. Finally we arrived at our hotel, Loi Suites in Iguazu. Worn out and exhausted, we checked into our room only to be welcomed by a small scorpion in the bathroom. Our hotel is set in a jungle so it probably will not be the only critter we would encounter. I'm sure there will be a lot of checking under our beds during our stay.

In the morning, Mercio our guide drove us to the Iguazu National Park for a full day of visiting the mighty falls and walking along the many trails. The "I" means water and "guacu" means big, which is a perfect description of these waterfalls. They straddle the Brazilian and Argentinian borders and are one of nature's greatest phenomena. Set in a sub-tropical jungle with 90% humidity we were in awe of the sheer power and roar of the tumbling falls. The walkways allow you to get quite close to the falls and the gentle cooling spray of the water is a welcome reprieve from the oppressive humidity. The fauna and flora was impressive and just what you expect to find in a jungle. We even caught a brief glimpse of a beautiful toucan however, the capuchin monkeys remained elusive. We also did a boat trip that took us right to the wall of the falls, ensuring that everyone got absolutely soaked. It was a lot of fun and a great way to be in such close proximity to the strength of Mother Nature. The rest of the afternoon was spent relaxing at the hotel. It was lovely but it lacked the intimacy and personal touch of the other places we have stayed in. They do however make great cocktails which we enjoyed on the patio overlooking the pool.

It is the last morning of our holiday and it is with a great deal of sadness that we say goodbye to Argentina before we make the short journey over to Brazil. After crossing the border we spent a short time exploring the Brazilian side of the falls. The view is spectacular as you get a full visual of the sheer scale of the falls. We walked along the trails to some excellent vantage points that provide magnificent panoramic vistas. It would have been nice to spend more time here but unfortunately we had a flight to catch. After a quick farewell and a few Hail Mary's for the safe travel of our wine, we were homeward bound.

Land of fire, ice, Malbec, parillas, tango, warm hearted people and an incredible diversity, Argentina has offered it all and made our journey a truly epic one.