We landed at Bangkok airport, got our luggage from the carousel and some cash from the ATM being severely overcharged in the process! It is one of our huge travel bugbears that we get charged for taking our own money out of the bank everywhere we go! Ridiculous!

We then headed for the bus as directed by our, now somewhat battered, Lonely Planet. It soon became apparent that the bus service no longer existed so instead we caught the airport train with the aim to get a taxi to Khao San Road at the nearest station. As soon as we stepped out of the station we were accosted by a friendly Thai who gave us some advice (or so we thought at the time), so following this advice we got a tuk-tuk to a tourist information office.

After the most terrifying tuk-tuk ride ever, we went into the information centre to speak with someone regarding our Indian visa. After being told a pretty much fluffed up version of nothing, and the lady being very rude to us we decided to leave and get a taxi to the backpacker's area.

In the heat with our packs on we wandered around looking for a room, and we eventually went back to the first room we had seen soon realising we wouldn't get a better deal. It feels very Chinese-influenced here - the rooms are more expensive but the street food is a bargain. We went for a wander and shared a green chicken curry, some Pad Thai, a fruit shake and a diet coke all for just 2 pounds 40pence! And it was delicious! I raised a glass of diet coke to one of my bestest girls Jess on her 22nd birthday! I miss you loads Cockers and hope you had a great day! xxx

We came back to the hostel and used the internet to try and plan a little more of our South East Asia tour. I am anxious about sorting the Indian visa but excited about exploring Bangkok (as well as doing some shopping!).

We got up bright and early today as we planned to try and get our Indian visa sorted out so after showering we headed out not very optimistic but with everything we needed. We were accosted by tuk-tuk drivers and taxi drivers alike being told we could get our visas done from the Khao San Road area easier. However we thought we might know better so made a deal with a taxi driver to take us to the embassy and we were on our way.

It took a while to get through the crawling morning traffic but we eventually got to the embassy and handed over the agreed amount of cash to the diver. At this point he decided that he wanted more money as it had taken him so long, we told him in no uncertain terms that all he was getting was the price we'd agreed and we got out.

We walked up to the embassy gates where the nice security guard told us we would have to go to another building to lodge our visa applications - luckily it was only a 5 minute walk away from where we were. We found the building, rode up in the lift and found the application office.

We filled in numerous forms (some twice as they had to be in black ink not blue - why not tell me before I fill them in??), had our photos taken (at a charge) and had our information transferred onto an online form (again at a charge). By this point Neil and I were discussing partial online applications for visas and how useless they were - either let me do it all online or all in person - why both??

After walking in and out of the same few doors having our forms checked and re-checked we finally made it to the counter! We paid for the visa applications happily learning that it cost less than we thought but then we were told it would take 6 working days to process, longer than we thought! We tried the age old solution of throwing money at the problem but there was no move, 6 working days for the process to be completed! We left with a photocopy of our passport and a collection receipt. On one hand we were happy the ball was rolling for our visa, but on the other hand we were anxious about travelling around Thailand without our passports.

We eventually found the metro station, after a déjà vu moment back to China where the signs pointed you in a direction but then disappeared before you reached your destination. Nightmare! We caught the metro to the train station and looked around for some lunch. After half an hour of walking around and finding nowhere to get any food, we sat in the shade on a step and made a plan for the remaining 8 days our passports would be at the embassy (taking in the weekend too!).

This plan involved buying train tickets so we made our way back to the station. As soon as we were in the area of the station we were stopped by a TAT tout - we thought she worked for the train station so listened to her intently until she tried to tell us to walk away from the station to buy our tickets. We were informed by someone who did work for the station that she was working for another company. There are so many of these touts around who get commission for bringing customers into the TAT offices.

We went into the station and easily bought our tickets (returns to Chang Mai for a few days) as the man at the counter was fluent in English - nothing like China! Happy with ourselves we grabbed a sausage each from a street vendor (train stations are the best places to buy street snacks!) and went back into the melee planning to get a tuk-tuk. However it didn't quite work like that. We were quoted far too much to get us back to the Khao San Road area, and then were quoted half as much if we went into some shops and looked around - a typical tourist trap. We politely declined and after finding out from information where to get the bus from we went and waited for it.

We got on the bus, and a local lady told Neil it was free, we were chuffed and enjoyed the massive sightseeing tour of the city past numerous Temples and Wats, through Chinatown and flower markets. It was fun, but very hot - no air-con on these free buses! We eventually got off near our hostel and headed back.

We picked up our net book and went to a café with free Wi-Fi to do some research. After a few hours we popped back to the hostel before embarking on some shopping! I was excited to learn that there was a Boots here, but only bought some shower gel (everything else is too heavy to carry!!). I then continued to purchase a vest, a bikini and some earrings for a grand total of 8 whole pounds! Bargain! There may be more shopping to come but SSShhhh! Don't tell my husband!

We went for dinner at a restaurant just down from our hostel choosing a few dishes to share, curry, rice, stir fried noodles with gravy and of course chips! The curry was the best bit - delicious! We paid up and Neil grabbed a fruit yoghurt shake on the way back to the hostel (just as the party animals were heading the other way!!). Not a very exciting day but it was very productive.

We woke up after a good night's sleep, and after moving rooms started our own mini tour of Bangkok. We are in a very nice, popular and busy hostel hence the room move. We walked down to the ferry port, bought a ticket and hopped onto the next local ferry. This is used as a quick form of transport as the roads are so congested. It is a nice way to travel in my opinion; however I was petrified of the monks on board. It is deemed disrespectful if I accidentally bump into a monk, or sit next to one, so now of course I am paranoid!

We got off the boat and headed towards the state tower which houses Sirocco, the world's highest alfresco restaurant where we will have the pleasure of dining in a few days! It was impressively high (from our view from the ground anyway!) and made me excited for our meal there. Then it was onto the amazingly air-conditioned sky train (I actually got goose bumps!) where we disembarked at MBK - Bangkok's biggest mall. We looked around here for a while but not for too long as A. we don't have enough money to spend and B. I couldn't carry everything even if we did!

After a quick Mcflurry we were back on the sky train and on the way to Chatuchak Market. However when we got off the train we realised that the market was a weekend market only so we wouldn't get to see it! We sat in Chatuchak Park for a while instead. When we had had enough of the heat we got the metro back to the train station and the bus back to the hostel. One of the rubbish things about Bangkok is the transport connections. It seems that metros and sky trains were only built in one half of the city! We got off at the wrong stop but managed to navigate ourselves back via a market, along the river and through some side streets with not much bother. Today was a good day for seeing the sheer size of Bangkok.

We collected our laundry which had been put in earlier in the day, and came back to the hostel for a while where we booked our table at Sirocco - the 63rd floor restaurant (squeal!!!). We went back out mooching around the books, clothes and knick knacks before getting some food. It was traditional Thai food from a street vendor - delicious and cheap! Neil purchased a book and we went back to the room. A good day was had and tomorrow we get our first night train since China!

The day started well, we checked out and left our bags at the hostel making our way to Banglamphu Market. I'm still not sure if we got there or not as we weaved our way through the maze of stalls that lined the pavements. It was a nice relaxed local market experience as opposed to the tourist market area of Khao San Road. No-one hawked us to buy stuff, everything was priced and I was even left alone to try on some shorts. At a tourist market you feel a bit like a walking cash machine -everyone wants to make a withdrawal! I bought some shorts and we continued mooching for a while until the skies turned and it started to look a bit black over Bill's mothers!

We were aiming for the giant swing (no idea what this was even with the obviousness of the title!) when the heavens opened so we took refuge in a bar for a drink. We sat in the bar for a LONG time hoping the rain would stop but instead it just got heavier! We decided to risk it and started back to the hostel but feeling a bit sorry for ourselves nipped in McDonalds for some comfort food. I was feeling a little homesick today so having recognisable food helps a bit!

Luckily the rain had eased a little so we walked back to the hostel and used the afternoon reading, relaxing and using the internet for planning - something that never seems to get finished!

We collected our bags and went to get the local bus to the train station. We were told by the hostel staff where the stop was (as we had only ever caught the bus the other way!) but walked straight past it as it didn't have our bus number on it! There wasn't another stop so we turned around back to the first stop just as two of our buses sailed past! Typical!

Another bus soon came; we got on and found a seat keeping an eye out for the train station as we moved along but before we got there we had to swap buses to another one which was waiting. This time we did have to pay (only pennies!) and the stern conductor lady made us take off our packs and squeeze into the back row - we would quite happily have stood but it was her bus!

We stood up to get off at the station just as a local was turning around to tell us it was our stop - he'd also helped us with the previous bus transfer. It appears that the Thai people who are to make no gain out of you are incredibly friendly and helpful. It is a shame that the ones who want your cash have lost a lot of that charm - they could probably make a lot more money if they went back to their roots!

In the station we found a space and perched on our bags to wait. We both had a little look around, buying some food (as previously mentioned, station stalls are the best!) and looking at books. There were lots of people at the station, and lots of monks too. They are very highly regarded in Thailand and have their own seating spaces in public places such as train stations.

Whilst I was in the book shop, I started to walk out and noticed that everybody, without exception (even Neil) was stood up. I realised that the national anthem was playing and it is expected that everyone stop and stand to show respect to the king. It was a great sight to see - I can't imagine it holding much water at home??

It was soon time to get on the train which we did with ease despite the lack of electronic boards - there is simply a wooden sign at the end of each platform. We found our beds easily but were a little disappointed they were not the ones we thought we would get facing each other but were like all the others we have been on. I soon noticed that there was very strong air-con, too strong, I was freezing! It didn't get any warmer so I tucked up on my bed under my blanket with the curtain drawn, and tried to get some sleep ready to wake up in Chiang Mai!

Miss you all lots and lots! Hope everything is good at home??! Lots of love xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx