We forgot to mention that I have now picked up the bug that Kirsty had. It starts with a runny nose and this was how I woke up some time in the early hours. While searching for a tissue I got a severe reprimand for the noise from Kirsty's bunk before she turned over and fell back asleep. Admittedly it was taking me a while to open a pack of tissues but, in my defence, it was early, I was not feeling great and it was a moving train!

At 7.15 the lights came on, the onboard broadcasts began through the carriage speakers and the televisions came on. I think we were being told it was morning! Kirsty was not impressed by any of it and once again turned over to get some more sleep. Amazingly many other passengers were completely unmoved by any of the noise.

After brushing my teeth and waiting a long time for the toilet (what do the Chinese find to do for so long?) I had assumed the position gazing out of the window with a coffee while the world passed silently by.

In contrast to Northern China, Sichuan region seems quite green and also very rural. Farming seems to be a way of life for many people and even that early there were plenty of people going about their business of working the land. By this time Kirsty was awake and reading on her bunk before we enjoyed breakfast together and waited for our stop.

After assisting another passenger with her luggage from the overhead rack (being taller than average has its advantages!) we got off and followed everyone else towards the station exit. Along the way we passed a Western family with three young, blond children each pulling their own miniature suitcase. This was too much of a novelty to many Chinese who took the opportunity to get some photos. It was certainly nice for a change that we weren't the ones at the centre of attention!

We soon left the normal hustle and bustle of the train station and surrounding streets behind. It was just shy of midday, hot in the sun and there was delicious food on sale at various food carts on each corner. We ignored all this though determined to get to our hostel before taking stock. We walked on before gifting ourselves a break 30 minutes in. A check of the map, a consensus from the two of us and on we plodded.

We knew roughly where our hostel was but it's amazing how tough a mile and a half can be at that time of day with an uncertain destination and while carrying our big heavy packs and daysacks. However neither of our tempers frayed despite a night's (lack of) sleep on the train and our patience was rewarded with a first sight of the hostel. We did the usual check in and registration rigmarole before finding our room and collapsing on the bed.

It was a very nice hostel and our first room with its own bathroom which we took full advantage of by hanging our hand-washing all over! Not a bad place for only 80¥ per night!

We spent the early afternoon weighing up the cost of some of the stuff to do here and researching how easy we could do it completely independently before popping out to buy our train ticket to our next destination, Kunming. With our last experience in Xi'an fresh in our minds, we wrote down the relevant date of travel in Chinese characters and the train numbers for our first, second and third preference. With this information together with our knowledge of the two Mandarin words for "hard-sleeper" and "upper berth" the whole process went incredibly smoothly.

Next up was a supermarket to buy some supplies such as batteries (the power cut in Xi'an had left us a little low) and shower gel together with a spot of lunch. Once back in the room we hummed and hawed some more about how to spend our time in Chengdu. Although the Giant Pandas are a must-see for both of us, we opted against going to Leshan to see the giant Buddha statue. Instead we concluded there are enough things to enjoy in and around Chengdu.

When dinner time approached we asked the hostel staff for a recommendation of somewhere we could go to sample the famed (and spicy) Sichuan cuisine. Refusing the offer from them to write some dishes down in Mandarin for us but armed with the restaurant name, we ventured out. When we arrived, the menu was entirely in Mandarin which wouldn't have been a problem normally except that the waitress was hovering over us expecting an immediate order, thereby denying us valuable time to identify the dishes using our phrasebook and our limited experience. Luckily one of the other patrons took pity on us and came over to our table to act as translator and interpreter for us.

Once the food arrived, it truly was spicy! But spicy at the front of the mouth, the lips and the tongue, not at the back of the throat like back at home. To be honest it was a little too spicy for us. But we still ate enough to be satisfied before returning to the hostel to book our trip to the pandas in two days' time.

The following day started rather earlier than planned with a knock on the door at 7.45. There was a mix-up among the hostel staff who thought initially we were due to go on the panda tour today. I explained, while stood in my boxers, that we had signed up for the next day which they accepted and apologised for disturbing us. I couldn't get back to sleep so got showered and dressed before having some chocolate for breakfast as I was starving and there was no other food in the room!

We spent the day exploring Chengdu on foot with two main aims: Firstly to visit the Wen Shu Monastery and secondly the tomb of Wangjian. However as is the nature of travelling, particularly in China which is phenomenally difficult to navigate, it was not as simple as it sounds!

While trying to find the monastery, we stumbled across a rebuilt "old" neighbourhood with teahouses, souvenir shops and a food street. It was while wandering around we noticed that the monastery was also in this neighbourhood but appeared to be closed as work was being done. We enjoyed exploring the quaint narrow streets in any case before stopping to get some street food. Firstly we opted for some delicious meat skewers, followed by some dough balls with sesame seeds. Finally I had a deep fried dough disc full of some spicy stuff, not sure what. Here Kirsty also bought a tricolour heart bracelet successfully bartering with the stallholder.

From here and with our bellies full and our wallets lightened we walked the mile or so to Wangjian Tomb, diving down a local market square at one point. We got lost on the way (obviously as this is China!) and stumbled into Yongling Park where we spent some time before realising the tomb is actually part of the park anyway! After paying an entrance fee we had a look around. It is literally just a tomb so not much to see although nice that all the detail is also translated into English.

We then made our way back picking up an ice-cream for Kirsty and a pancake roll for me on the journey.

Once back at the hostel we spent an hour or so doing more research into not only Chengdu but our last two stops in China, Kunming and Nanning.

We then decided we wanted to try Sichuan's signature dish, the hotpot (similar to a fondue). Again we got help from the hostel for a suitable restaurant and this time they also wrote down in Mandarin some menu choices for us. A little bit of a cheat but we wanted the authentic experience, what a local would choose to eat.

The restaurant was very nice but the hotpot of oil on which we cooked our raw ingredients of potato, different kinds of meat and other vegetables was a little too spicy for us both. "Spicy" is not really the correct word, the guidebook calls it numbness brought about by the Sichuan peppercorn. I've no idea how the locals can enjoy the experience!! We've done it now but I'm not sure we'd ever do it again!

We had an early start the next day as it was the half-day tour to see the panda. Always a funny atmosphere as about six of us, unknown to one another, wait for our transport bleary-eyed but excited for the trip ahead. It was a great morning and so nice to do an organised tour which was exactly what it said on the tin. No more, no less. No marching us round places of interest only to slow the tempo as soon as we enter the gift shops. Or worse still, making unnecessary stops at factory shops on the way. Just straightforward transport door to door with entry included. Perfect.

Having never seen pandas with the naked eye before, I was really looking forward to "meeting" them. The first thing that surprised me was how dirty their white fur was. Obvious thing to say but I'd never thought about it before! They were still just as cute and gorgeous as I imagined and it was just such an honour to put the camera away and simply watch them stripping bamboo to eat. I was pleasantly surprised to learn that there were so many (around 50) and an added bonus to be able to view the lesser known red panda too.

Another great thing about the tour was that we had ample time to explore the Research Base independently and the various enclosures even re-visiting some during the morning. On the way back to the van, we visited a gift shop where Kirsty bought a T-shirt which is very nice.

Upon returning to the hostel, we relaxed for a little bit before going for a walk in Chengdu reflecting on our morning. We hadn't planned ahead well and therefore hadn't arranged any breakfast so, although it was after 12, we wanted to get some breakfast street food. We headed toward something we had seen on our free map of the town called Live Water Park hoping to pass a street vendor on the way. Luckily we did and enjoyed a sweet apple beignet and something similarly shaped but with a meat filling, plus of course the normal Sichuan spice.

As we neared the Live Water Park we saw that the traffic signs referred to the place as an oceanarium which made us consider with some interest and excitement that it might be an aquarium. Imagine our disappointment when we reached our destination to learn that it was, in fact, an outside water slide park for holidaymakers and was closed this time of year! The positive was that it was a lovely riverside stroll to get there so not all bad.

We continued on along the river before cutting in through town, getting an ice-cream for a certain someone and walking all the way back to the hostel. We used the internet for a spell before, after consultation again with the staff, catching the bus to the computer district.

We have noticed that all hostels have offered free Wi-Fi whereas those of us without any electrical devices have been neglected completely or often have to pay to go online. In an impulsive afternoon we decided that, as we have many tasks still to do that require internet access, not least of all booking flight tickets and updating this blog, perhaps it would be more cost effective to buy a small netbook.

Unfortunately, when we reached the computer district, there was nobody in the IT department area who spoke good enough English to help us. Surprising this as back at the hostel their English is very good so I would have thought, of all areas, people working in IT would have a good grasp of English too. But no so we're still none the wiser.

We got the bus back and got some supplies for the room while at the same time wandering through the back streets near our hostel for some dinner "off the streets" as it were. Kirsty had been talking about buying some lychees for a few days now fuelled mainly by the sight of someone on an overnight train munching her way through a big bagful. With help from the phrasebook we managed to buy half a kilo's worth from a lady running a market stall, very pleased with ourselves only to discover a short time later they were no good. Still no idea why anyone would buy them?!? You win some, you lose some.

We did, however, manage to get some good dinner. At one stall we had Sichuan spiced chips and, at another, pork skewers. Both stalls cooking the food fresh in front of us.

We spent the following day, our first rainy day of the trip, "doing" the tourist areas of Chengdu. We started by wandering a couple of blocks until we found the bus stop from where we had been reliably informed we would need to catch the bus for Jinli Old Street. The bus was, as is customary in China, absolutely packed and we had to stand holding on for dear life! It amazed me that despite how busy it was, more stops were made and yet more people got on. The bus resembled a mobile tin of sardines by the time we arrived at our destination - a rebuilt old neighbourhood, somewhat touristy but still great fun. The highlight being the food stalls where I had some meat skewers and Kirsty opted for quails' eggs skewers which were apparently absolutely delicious. Some time later Kirsty chose some spring rolls in a hot spicy sauce and I went for a beef filled egg pancake. Being touristy the prices were a little more expensive than we would normally pay but still ridiculously cheap.

We left here and headed on foot back the way we had been brought by bus towards the People's Park. Along the way we stepped off the main streets and found ourselves walking through a local market hall. The market was split into a vegetable and meat/fish area and the sights and smells were "interesting". The locals probably thought we were mad veering into such a place but it was interesting to see everyday life, seeing various unidentifiable parts of animals on slabs for sale together with unrecognisable fruit and vegetables. Surprisingly we didn't get too much attention from the locals here.

The People's Park was built in 1911 and had various distinct sections and seemed a lot bigger and more varied than our map suggested. In the middle was a large open concrete area where a number of people had gathered to watch or take part in some impromptu dancing to music, something they do a lot in the parks in China. Not pre-arranged or anything, just some locals dancing on a Saturday afternoon, freeing themselves from their inhibitions.

Within the park is a memorial called The Monument to the Martyrs of the Railway Protection Movement (1911) in honour of the people who stood up against corrupt officials who were pocketing money meant to be used for construction of the railway network.

The next section had a little amusement park impressively full of many rides and side stalls such as figurine painting for children. Clearly built to draw in families it worked as it was a busy little area. We took our time here stopping to watch some of the rides. It was interesting to note the bumper cars ride was empty - perhaps not as interesting to the locals as too much like the real Chinese roads?

Next we managed to find a small but adequate boating lake but due to the weather it wasn't really an attractive proposition. A number of other visitors obviously thought similarly. Added to which the rickety old boats didn't instil us with much confidence!

When we left the park we walked to Tianfu Square which together with the Mao statue makes up the centre of Chengdu. The square was a very agreeable place with lots of open space and many visitors watching the world go by. The water features were again a mainstay. We managed to take a few snaps including some of Chairman Mao, Kirsty even being called into service to help take a photo for a Chinese tourist.

This was our last place of interest so, once again on foot we headed back making a stop at the large supermarket for train supplies for tomorrow and to get bits and bobs like tissues. The air is thick here and highly polluted meaning an ordinate amount of phlegm develops. This leads to a high demand for tissues. It also explains (though does not excuse) why so many Chinese people in many towns and cities across the country spit on the floor so frequently. It's a disgusting habit to experience and one that thankfully the younger generation seem not to have picked up from their parents.

We spent the rest of the day knocking around the hostel, popping out once more for some more meat skewers (so nice!) and ice-cream (despite the damp conditions!!).

The next day was Easter Sunday, though it didn't start too well as Kirsty had a reaction to the anti-malarials we started yesterday. As advised we now take them only after we've had some food. Following this bad start we thought it best to get a proper breakfast from the hostel. We went downstairs and I opted for a European style breakfast - muesli and yoghurt followed by (Easter) eggs and toast while Kirsty, in view of her sensitive stomach, opted only for French fries. Everything was delicious and afterwards things seemed to be back to normal, just about.

We returned to our room and packed up our bags. Each time it seems harder to fit it all in and it seems heavier! We checked out just before our check-out time of 1. Our train was at 3 so we decided beforehand that it would not be worth doing anything before we caught the train. With this in mind we went to the bus stop to get the bus to the train station. We waited for a long time before the bus turned up and, although it was fairly full, we got on with our big packs on. The bus only got busier until eventually we reached the train station, probably the most uncomfortable bus journey of the trip so far. As we were at the train station early we joined a number of other people by finding a spot in front to sit on our bags and wait.

While waiting, a young smiling man came up to us asking where we were going. We were both quite tight-lipped as we were very cautious, however he admitted it was the first time he had actually used his English (uttering the unforgettable "I am brave") and was genuinely excited about this and the fact he was catching the train to go to college! It was a shame our wariness meant he didn't get a proper conversation (although it might have been too much for his English skills anyway!).

"I have to go now", he said suddenly and he upped and left.

The queue for the security check was shorter this time and the station quieter. This was because the train didn't originate from Chengdu so a number of passengers were already on board. We followed the herd to the platform from where we found our carriage and clambered aboard. Luckily there was space for both our packs on the overhead racks and we sat down.

On time, at two minutes past three we left Chengdu set for the 18 hour overnight journey to Kunming. The scenery along the way was different again, comprising rocky outcrops, hills and tunnels together with waterways such as rivers and lakes.

China is a fascinating country not only from a landscape point of view. We passed many almost derelict areas full of rundown houses but there are also large areas of partially completed construction both of new living accommodation and new highways.

It seems also rules are made to be broken in China. There was a man beneath us on the bottom bunk who was smoking throughout the journey despite the fact that it is banned and only permitted in the vestibules between carriages. Yet another example of which there are many (don't step on the grass, don't eat your own food at the hostel, don't take photos, don't touch exhibits, no standing beyond this point) where the Chinese flout the rules. Fascinating and if I'm honest a little irritating to me as a rule-abiding Englishman.