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D4: Today was a long, busy and awesome day for all. Bammie (correct spelling) met us at the hotel and we headed out to the Worarot Market. First stop was the wholesaler for the Thai yoga pants. Dad bought 10 pairs. Walking down the aisles we spied strange snacks, all the meats, and the smell of mothballs which permeated the rows. Jackfruits the size of Mars, stinky durian, passionfruits, mangos, strawberries could be purchased, fresh or dried. Live turtles, eels and frogs were also for sale. Bammie says not for eating but they are bought and set free for good luck, probably into the military horse pastures. Ummm, anyone tried the turtle soup at Perry's? Vendors everywhere were giving away free food and drinks for the Chinese New Year celebration. We sampled candies, sausage, and bought offerings for the temples we were headed to later in the day.
After the colorful markets we hopped on a trishaw to tour the city (imagine a small pedi-cab). We each had our own, and our own driver. Bammie says that is how most people used to get around but tuk tuks and taxis have since replaced them. She also said the drivers are the OG drivers as well, which made sense since all of them were over the age of 80. You couldn't tell though; they all looked about 30 and were fit as a fiddle. We all loved the tour and Twila Beth promptly fell asleep.
We got off the trishaw at Wat Chedi Luang, a temple built in the 14th century and one of the oldest still remaining stupas. It previously housed the Emerald Buddha when Chiang Mai was the capital of Thailand and now houses a replica of it. Monks live there and host daily monk chats where tourists can ask questions and monks can practice English.
After leaving, we headed to Wat Phra Singh where the main entrance is guarded by lions (Singhs). This is one of the most beautiful temples as sometime in the last few years they encased some of the more modern buildings in gold. Very bright and shiny. There, we gave an offering to a monk and he blessed us with holy water (he makes it holy by spitting in it)* and tied a white string around our wrist (this symbolizes luck and purity). TB wasn't sure how to react to the water being thrown on her head. She cried a little at first but then I whispered that she needed all the blessings and salvation possible given she was being raised in a family of sinners, and she quieted immediately. That girl is wise beyond her months.
Monks live 100% on donations. Many of them have iPhones and use Internet, also donated. The offering we gave was a bag containing spaghetti, Milo (the cocoa drink), toothpaste, and a myriad of random other items (I was feeling a little cheap, like I should have brought my old iPad to give.) Random memory: Milo always reminds me of Ghana, where I volunteered for several months. Women would give birth and after they'd be given a cup of hot Milo (I'll just quickly mention that when they were ready to deliver they'd have to walk across the hall to birth the baby, then walk back over to their mattress after delivery took place…just saying that is not easy, speaking from someone who has now experienced childbirth).
Lunch was another Thai meal of curries, papaya salad, and noodles. My favorite. We did try the signature dish of Chiang Mai today. Khao soi, a dish I had never had before. It is egg noodles in a yellow coconut milk curry and served with pickled vegetables and lime. Delicious.
After lunch our final event for the day was Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. For short, people call it just Doi Suthep. But to break it down for you, Wat means temple. Phra translates to an honorific person. That means a relic. Doi Suthep is the name of the mountain. This place is very famous and Buddhists from all over the world travel here. Why, you ask? Apparently part of the Buddha's shoulder bone is here. (The relic of the honorific person) Doi Suthep has a large mural around the entire temple, which depicts the story of the Buddha and was explained in detail by Bammie. The Thai Buddhist story as depicted in the mural and described simply (per Bammie) is that Siddhartha Guatama was born as a Hindu prince and was raised to be the future king. He married his cousin. His family wouldn't let him leave the palace walls in order to shield him from human suffering. But he left anyway one day to see what his kingdom was like and saw sick, suffering and dying people. He wanted to leave his life to live as an ascetic. But he couldn't because he was attached to his family and his future. Then he had a son who named his son Rahul which meant attachment, representing the attachment he could not leave. Well, he left anyway. (Sounds like the rebellious teenager I was) He cut his hair, meditated, fasted and all this other s*** on a pathway to enlightenment. He finally got enlightened under a Bodhi tree (so you see at least one Bodhi tree planted at all temples) by realizing there's a Middle Way, which essentially means moderation.
We returned home after the long day and gathered to have room service for dinner because I didn't want to impose TB onto anyone. Poor girl was so exhausted. She fell asleep as soon as we got to the hotel at 5pm and did not get up until 4:30 the next morning. I think the 'rents are getting tired of Thai food because they ordered sandwiches and soup. I could never.
Tomorrow we have a relaxing day at the resort. Can't wait.
*On the holy water…It's not even called holy water and monks do not actually salivate into it. That's a Christian thing (holy water, not spitting). It is called blessed or lustral water and is made so during a ritual monks perform called nam mon.
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Erica Yep family full of sinners! Love reading about your adventures! We really should travel together some day, I’m all into experiencing the culture! Love you!!