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D2: We woke today feeling quite refreshed. Twila Beth slept most of the night, which was pretty impressive in my opinion. Guess the youngins' don't experience jetlag like we do.
Our only full day in Bangkok (thank God) started early with a trip to a LA style vegan café and juice bar. We all trekked there so I could start my Sunday at my place of worship, a Womens' AA meeting. Guess I'm outing myself for those of you who don't know. I've been sober for over three years and it's the best decision I've ever made. I met several other cool chicks at the meeting today, all about my age, all who live and work in Bangkok. (By the way a few were teachers and confirmed they had been off school last week due to the worsening air pollution.)
After the meeting and fresh juice we went to the Grand Palace and The Temple of The Emerald Buddha. This was one place I didn't get to go to last time I was in Thailand, 15 years ago, because of the dress code requirements. To visit, one must wear a shirt with sleeves and long pants/dress. We were prepared this time. It was HOT. And let me just say having a baby attached to you in 100 degree heat is a little unbearable. Poor Twila Beth. Mom was having a panic attack worrying TB was going to die of heat stroke. I wasn't. Don't worry fellow docs, I checked and she still made urine, tears (lots and lots of tears shed today), cap refill was excellent and her tongue was quite moist. But she was absolutely miserable. Who knew babies could sweat so much? Anyway, back to history.
The Grand Palace did not disappoint (although the weather did…sorry, I can't help it). King Rama I, who wanted a place for both residence and administrative duties, established the complex in the late 1700s. I had hoped the palace to be air-conditioned but then learned it is actually a compound made of several buildings, halls and pavilions (none of which you can go inside) and there was no cooling system to be found. Also very little shade. By the way if you did not know, Thailand is still a monarchial country (but constitutional rather than absolute monarchy). Incidentally I did not know which countries were constitutional vs absolute vs commonwealth monarchies. (I googled it and tried to c&p the wiki link here but off exploring wouldn't let me publish it so if you don't know either, that's ok.)
The Temple of the Emerald Buddha is housed on the grounds of the palace. Some interesting history: The Emerald Buddha is made of jade, not emeralds. The Emerald Buddha is actually very small, only 26 inches high. You can barely even see it once you enter the temple (photos were not allowed unfortunately but you can google it). The Emerald Buddha wears three costumes throughout the year. One for summer, rainny season (yes I wrote rainny, not rainy as the signs were spelled so), and winter. OMG guys the freaking Emerald Buddha had his winter costume on. It's winter here in Bangkok at a nice and cool 100 degrees. Bloody hell. Jason wanted to spend more time in the temple. He asked "did you just walk through the Sistine Chapel this fast when you went there"? I politely rolled my eyes at him as sweat dripped down my butt cheeks onto the floor.
After the Grand Palace and Emerald Buddha we went to lunch, our first Thai meal in Thailand. Unfortunately it was short lived. Twila Beth, having missed out on her morning nap, being overheated and exhausted (perhaps I spoke too soon about her avoiding jet lag) was not having it. She was acting like I'm pretty sure my mom felt. She was over it all. After walking for an hour and a half in 100-degree weather in the baby carrier (Twila Beth, not my mom although I believe she would have liked to be carried), she was sweaty and uncomfortable. She badly needed a nap but couldn't fall asleep. She cried all through lunch. It was so bad that Dad offered to buy the meals of the table next to us. She was hungry but too hot and uncomfortable to eat. See in America, I don't really care who sees me breastfeed and I rarely use a cover. But Ving, our tourguide/former monk, told me it would not be culturally appropriate to feed without one. So she was fighting the hot ass air under it and just wailed. Now I'm thinking about it I should really get confirmation on this because of Ving's background in monkhood. Perhaps it is he that is uncomfortable and it is not a culture contradiction.
Speaking of monkhood I think I've just proved that women are smarter than men (at the very least, better doctors). Hear me out. Did you know that monks are not allowed to be treated by females, even in the medical setting? In fact there is a hospital in Bangkok where only men work and that is where monks go. They cannot be touched by female doctors or nurses. Ving mentioned yesterday that he entered monkhood and had many health problems and left monkhook and they all resolved. Perhaps his health had not changed. Perhaps the fact he could not be treated by a female doctor or nurse was the problem. Perhaps what he needed was the healing touch of a woman nurse and the brain of a lady physician. There you go! The proof is in the pudding.
After we had lunch (green curry pork, beef massaman, pad thai, and coconut sticky rice with mango, all allright and probably rate 5/10) Jason, dad and Ving went on to Wat Pho, or the Temple of the Reclining Buddha, then on a longtail boat trip back to the hotel. Although I did this last time I was in Bangkok, I had been looking forward to it. But due to baby girl not having a bar of it (baby girl in this situation refers both to TB and mom) the ladies opted to head back to the hotel for some R&R (and air-con) while the boys were left on their own. TB came back and had a three-hour nap! The boys said they had a fine time and really enjoyed the boat trip. #jealous #notjealousbecauseihadac
Dinner was at the hotel. Italian food (much to my chagrin as I could eat Thai every meal of every day). The chef was from Naples so when I ordered my Margarita pizza I was sure it would be authentic. It wasn't. The upside is I avoided eating an entire pizza. I did have this appetizer though that was pretty incredible. Soft poached egg that was tempura battered and fried sitting in a truffle parmesan foam. Wish I had gotten a photo but ate it before I could.
Tomorrow our journey continues to Chiang Mai. Till then.
- comments
Erica Well Asia is different and there are still cultural boundaries and women are not equal so Ving may be correct about the breast feeding in public. You know I have visited Asia often and I have never seen it, ever. I bet it’s hot!!!
Brent This has to be my favorite line so far, "I politely rolled my eyes at him as sweat dripped down my butt cheeks onto the floor." Thanks for the daily updates. Really enjoying the adventure with you. Love you!
Sharon kemp You are a brave young woman with a baby travelling. You are definitely from your mom's sturdy peasant stock.... words your dad once used! Hang in there, Libby. This part of the trip sounds perhaps more relaxing! Have fun!