Now we are on the Mosel River, quite different from the Rhine. It winds in and out of mountains, grape vines yellowing on the hillside. Swans greet our boat at the mooring. It is a foggy morning.

The little village of Cochem is nestled in the river valley. The Mosel takes a big bend here, like a horseshoe. At the top of one mountain stands the Reichsburg Castle, built in 1000 AD (photo in the fog). Much of it was later burned, and for 500 years, it sat empty. In the 1700s, it was rebuilt and used as a "summer home". In the 1930s, it was sold to the Nazi's, and after the war, turned over to the town of Cochem.

What a delight it was! Tall towers, turrets, cobblestones, knight's armor and weapons - just what you imagine from a medieval castle. We were taken inside and walked up and around, until my feet began to hurt. While many others went to walk through the cemetery, through the town, across the bridge and then down to the boat - we came directly back to the boat to sit with a cup of cocoa and put my feet up. At this point, one little village is beginning to blend into all the others! Lovely and interesting, but tiring, too…

After another scrumptious lunch, we gathered on top of the sun deck to watch the ship go through one of the 30+ locks we will traverse on this cruise. We have already gone through several, but at night. So it was interesting, though not as spectacular as the Yangtze Seven Locks or the Panama Canal. It took about 30 minutes, and then we were off through the wine country of the Mosel.

Here only Reisling grapes are grown, so only white wine is produced. The vines grown vertically up the mountain sides! Only a few are growing horizontal. Their leaves are turning yellow now, and some grapes are left on the vines to be made into Eis wines.

Off to tea time and then, a tour of the galley! Lovely tea table with hearty bite-size sandwiches, decorated with tiny tomato rosettes, small slices of cakes and of course tea. After a bite (or two!) we toured the galley where all the delicious meals we have been eating are prepared. So small! How they ever get dinners for 134 passengers and about 30 crew in that small space is amazing. The chef explained his process to ensure that each dinner is individually prepared and served, hot off the stove.

This evening we had American night, cocktails with popcorn. Another bountiful dinner: dolmas for an appetizer, beef consommé, pike perch with piped potatoes, carrot, shaved & roasted zucchini, and walnut ice cream with fruit I can't identify and a wafer cookie for dessert, and all the time, we are thinking about the chef and his crew scrambling around in the galley!

After dinner, the captain gave us a Naughty Talk. No, Nauti-cal Talk, a slide show presentation on the ship, River Rhapsody, and how life operates on the river to resupply us, navigate the waters, and life of the crew. Very interesting, although after that meal, there were more than a few snores!

TOMORROW: Bernkastel, Germany with a tour of a winery and, of course, wine tastingJ