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What a wonderful little town! We woke to a cool and foggy day, just the perfect day along the wine region of the Mosel. The cool temperatures and moist air make for the most perfect conditions for the Reisling grape. After breakfast, we took a walking tour into Bernkastel, seeing the castle in ruins at the top of the mountain in the mist. The streets are narrow, with a tower at the waterfront, once part of the city wall and now part of a church, a lock for the city gate permanently placed in the wall of the tower. We learned why the bear was the town symbol, and St. Michael its patron saint, and we even saw our Steven locked up in chains in the markt square for being naughty!
We had a little free time, so six of us went into a pastry shop. Although the lady/proprietor looked shocked at us for ordering it so early in the day, D&I tried Zweibelkruchen (onion pie, quiche-like), while the others had afflestrussel with ice cream and loads of whipped cream. I think our selection was best. We used the toiletten, and although the sign said 50 cents, she didn't charge us. When we went upstairs to use the WC, I looked out the second-story window on a door leading outside to what I thought was a balcony. Nope, it was outside to the street! The road curved around the building and rose so steeply, the little shop had a door to the street on both floors.
We rejoined Steven to walk to the Doctor Bernkastel Cellar. Famous all over Germany, and now even in the states, the wine cellars' owner greeted us at huge hammered-brass doors leading into the slate caves under the hill. Over our heads the vines grew up the mountain. We tasted four Reislings, bought one, which was delivered to our cabin before we even returned to the ship. The tale of the Doctorkeller goes back centuries to Hermutt II of Trier, who was wealthy and handsome, had everything but his health. He had severe stomach ailments. Doctors came from all over Europe to help him, but nothing helped. Finally, a vintner from Bernkastel went to Trier and served him some wine. Miraculously, he was healed. The town commemorates this with fountains and pillars, and the grapevines growing all over the area. The cellar's owner explained why the fog and slate are good for the grapes, why the vines are grown vertically up the mountain sides, how the length of fermentation effects the alcohol content, how much the wine-making process has changed since Roman times (very little). Actually, it was the Romans almost two thousand years ago who introduced the vines to this area - and some vines are over 500 years old!
One lovely prayer painted on the side of a building goes something like this: "Lord, please grant that our people do not make false money, and money does not make our people false. Grant that the women watch their last words, and the men watch their first words. May the Government have better people, and may the people have better government." How nice…
Back to the ship for weiner schnitzel for lunch and a leisurely afternoon, using the internet to upload my blog! The big event occured after our German Buffet Dinner of roasted suckling pig... now don't snicker it was good. But after dinner, the Program Directors held a "German Products Lottery". Remember a few days ago we had to buy something German that we didn't know what it was or couldn't be found in any American store for under 3 Euros. Well, it was hillarious! The PDs would explain the item - a packet to stop that gassy feeling, liquid viagra, chocolates and canned potato soup, hogs head in a jar, turkey pate,, etc. Then he drew a cabin number. It was so funny. We "won" a tube of mustard, which isn't bad at all! :)
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