Said goodbye to Alice yesterday - she was staying on Ko Tao to finish the diving course then going over to the other islands. Sad to say bye really, but hopefully she'll keep in touch. I did lots of snorkelling and walking/hiking and sunbathing whilst on the island and I can almost say I have a tan. I think I have a white bikini pattern, which will make me quite amusing to look at naked. Also, it's been so long since I had a mirror that shows more than my face, I dread to think what's happened to the rest of my body! Horrible thought. Arrived safely in Kota Bharu this afternoon after a fairly painless 23 hour journey. Spent a lot of it sleeping on the sleeper train. Although - i was rudely awakened this morning to witness the most interesting transformation going on around me in the train cabin. All the bunks were being transformed back into seats!! I was watching this, half asleep with my sexy eye mask stuck to my face and probably dribble everywhere, until it suddenly ocurred to me that they would want to convert my bunk too. Had to get dressed - and this was at 6am!! What kind of an insane time is that!! I'm on holiday!!! Ater the train I walked to the border. Was wierd, because the closer the train got to the destination, the more armed police/soldiers there were. This combined with the fact that I knew there was some civil unrest in the area and the man sitting opposite me telling me not to stay in Sungai Kolok (train destination) too long because it's dangerous, I was begining to feel slightly concerned. Anyway - still decided to walk to the border (taxi wanted 30B!! actually - that is only 40p - well it seemed like a lot at the time - oh - that reminds me - the day before I went to a great beach for snorkelling and the b******s charged me 20B to go to the toilet!! it's usually 3B!! I made such a fuss about it - got the manager and everything - especially since the sign said the money was for pumping the water and there was no bloody running water!! Just a bucket to wash the toilet with after (that's usual, but not to charge 20B for it!!) I was cross for at least an hour about that - I hate it when people try to rip me off - dishonestly - just because I'm a tourist!) Anyway, back to my story - so I walked to the border then got a bus into Kota Bharu and I found a nice hostel in Kota Bharu for 2 pounds a night. Spent the afternoon looking around the town. Saw kite making and traditional music too. Was a bit terrible - think I was just a bit tired, but the music was really "different" and they used this instrument that sounded like a dying cat and to top it off, they had these old wrinkly men fighting with each other in a "poetic way" along to the music. I kept getting really embarassing fits of the giggles (you'd have thought I'd have grown out of that by now) It was just so awful!! And people started to stare, so I took myself away and didn't see the end. Must try harder to be more respectful - usually I am, but there weren't many Malaysian people there and I can't help thinking that it was a bit of a joke. It must have been. Kota Bharu is a modest town visually, but there seems to be a lot of cultural stuff here. I've arrived at the most perfect time - they've got a food festival on this weekend!!!!!! going out tonight to sample some of the local cuisine and also watch a music festival. Planned another self guided free walking tour for myself tomorrow. Then I think I'll stay one more night and head over to the Perenthians the next day. Finished my book (watching the english) written by a social anthropologist. Was very amusing - all about our quirky English customs. A bit heavy going at times but still good. Anyone who has a very dry sense of humour and enjoys laughing at themselves will love it. Started Orwell's coming up for air (courtesy of Tom Batho). Some bits were so funny that I actually laughed out loud in the restaurant I was at last night. Got stared at again. Actually - I've been stared at a lot recently. Perhaps I need to get hold of a full length mirror - maybe I look funny. Still reading the Buddhism book - nearly finished - think I've decided that casual Buddhists are fine but monks and extreme Buddhists are a bit insane. They say it's bad to enjoy food!!! (well - actaully, it seems bad to be passionate about anything - sounds like a bit of a dull existence to me) Balance and harmony are all well and good, but everyone needs a bit of excitement now and again, not to mention a plate of delicious food!!!! Oh - also went through a fishing harbour on the ferry from Ko Tao to Chumpon. The stench was terrible - a bit like emersing your head in a giant box of dried cat food (fish flavoured - obviously) and the fishermen just wear speedos. All looked a bit obscene to me. Speedos are definitely wrong. Will upload some photos when I get to a quick connection.