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Part 1 (I have uploaded part 2 as well)
7th November
I think this will end up being more like a diary than a blog over the next few days. Partly as I will have more time on my own and therefore be able to write it more often but also because there will be so much going on! It is quarter past 8, I am in bed and feel like my head is about to explode. Today has been exhausting with so many new experiences and things going on.
I got up this morning for actually a very good American style breakfast. Probably one if the best since being away. I then met with Shyam (correct spelling) and the operation manager of the local company who organise the programs. We had a briefing and did some admin etc before I checked out and Shyam and I started our sightseeing day.
First of all we walked through the Thamal area (touristy bit) to get to the main road. So many shops and stalls, my shopping head switched on since I will be able to splash out before coming home! We got to he main road and needed to get the public bus. I think there are usual busses too but there seems to be a system of mini busses that are hybrid busses and taxis. They take multiple people to where ever they need to go and have guys hanging out yelling the destination.
We sat in the front so it wasn't too bad and I had a great view, especially of the cows wandering along, the driving issues and the elephant walking along the street carrying stuff. Unfortunately I didn't have my camera ready. First stop was the Paton Palace which was home to the king in the 18th century. It is now being renovated and looked after more which is good. I had a look around there on my own then went to find Shyam who was talking to his brother. He is also a guide and they had bumped into each other. It worked out well though as we then caught a lift in his brother's group's minibus, (a French speaking tour) saving us another public bus trip.
The next stop was Pashubati which is the largest Hindu temple, perhaps in the world. It is also a main site for Hindu cremations. We entered this temple area (me and the other group) to literally see cremations happening on the other side of the river maybe 30 to 40 metres away. We walked around the rest of the area but you couldn't help but notice the constant billowing of smoke from the fires. I finished my tour and found Shyam and he took me to get a closer view. It felt very intrusive to be watching such a ceremony but also fascinating and there were plenty of locals watching too. One body was being prepared as I watched. After this we then left the temple to head back to the hotel and collect my stuff.
We needed to get another public bus but this time mini bus is probably a bit generous. We were in the back with people wedged in everywhere and I was also a source of great interest and intrigue by the locals. All harmless though. We arrived at our destination and walked back through to the hotel again. We stopped for some lunch and then collected my bag and got a short taxi ride to my host family where I will be staying for two nights. I met the son and daughter (and cute dog) and we had some tea before I then needed to leave for my first Nepali lesson. This is a short walk from the family's house.
BK is my teacher and is good at explaining the different words but I only have three hours with him so need to practice a lot! I am just learning informal conversational Nepali with basic greetings and grammar etc but it doesn't help that my English grammar is so bad when he starts talking about how to form sentences etc!! I just don't think like that in English!! Plus I have Chinese running through my head from last week and French from today so I am thoroughly confused!
Anyway, I listened, wrote and hopefully learnt some of the basic phrases and will build on this tomorrow. We left his house and then walked to my next lesson, Nepalese culture, history and politics. This was fascinating. Krishna is a professor and helps train people in the tourism and hotelier industry and gave me a brief summary of Nepal. The most interesting part I felt was the very recent political history. I feel I should have known about the Royal massacre in 2001 and had no idea that the Mauist party are in power now. I guess this has more context having just come from China. The main reason for the lesson however was to give me some information but also to warn me about expressing any kind of view once I am on placement as this could distance my self from the locals.
So after this and more Nepali tea (it is quite nice but very sweet and seems rude to say no), we walked back to the host family's house. I met the mother and father and practiced a few of my words and phrases and then had dinner. Again Dahl Baht, eaten with my fingers. Really yummy but after more tea I am stuffed! Nepali people usually only eat twice a day so I might need to start skipping lunch!
And that brings me to now. Exhausted but feeling more comfortable than yesterday. It does sort of feel like a hangover, you know it will get better so you do what you can to help along the way and then sit it out until the pain stops. I need to study lots, absorb what I can and then when I get to my placement make the most of it. I am sure at the end it will be over way too fast.
P.s. The beds in Nepal have no mattresses and are soooo uncomfortable!
8th November
So another roller coaster day! I got up at seven this morning to head to my Nepali lesson, I don't do mornings at the best of times so then having to engage my brain to listen, learn and remember was even harder! I left the lesson feeling like I had forgotten more than I had learnt. On my way back to the house I saw a nepalese traffic jam caused by a mini bus door falling off. The door was resting on the road, still half attached so the driver had just stopped in the road. Interesting! I got back to the house and ate breakfast, Shyam met me there so after I was finished we headed out, first stop the Indian embassy to get my visa. The embassy was packed with a long queue so Shyam pulled some strings to get me further up the queue (I did feel a bit uncomfortable about this) but I then realised that if I got a transit visa it was valid for today and only for 15 days so I couldn't do it anyway. It needs some planning but I will need to come back in a few weeks time instead.
After than unsuccessful trip we then set off on our sightseeing tour, first stop the monkey temple. We walked all the way there and today has been very hot so I was pretty tired by the end, to be treated with 365 steps up to the top! Not impressed. After the wall I have gone off steps! Eventually we made it to the top and some great views plus the temple and monkeys. I even saw some very young puppies, aahhh! From here we walked part way down to a lucky pond/pool. You throw coins at a small metal container while making a wish and apparently if you get one in you are successful. I wasn't going to even try given my accuracy but Shyam said I should and can you believe it, my first coin went in! Shyam threw his four and then my extra three and the last one of his went in too.
We walked from here down to the road and got a local bus (I understand these are called micro buses now) to our next stop. This one was more like a tuk tuk with an open back and the front door was held shut by a bolt on the inside. We arrived at Durbar square the second of the three palaces in Kathmandu. Apparently Kathmandu used to be divided into three regions, hence three palaces. We walked around here for a bit, had a drink and also went to see the living goddess. Finally we then walked back to Thamal and the company offices. I met up with Ruth, the GVI representative and we had a chat, as well as meeting the head of the local company who used to live near Bassingbourn..
After some tea and chats we walked back to the host family house and I have spent the evening practicing a little Nepali but talking mainly to the son and daugter who are potentially looking at going to study in Australia. The evening has been topped off with poppadoms for dinner (yummy) and a quick phone call home. I am absolutely shattered now and so am getting an early night again before I leave in the morning for my farm stay (after my final Nepali lesson). I also find out where my placement is tomorrow. Day two complete, ending on a higher note than it started.
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