Day Forty Eight - August 23rd, 2013

Karumba to Mt Isa

Today we covered the longest stretch of ground so far, and spent almost 8 hours driving. The landscape is barren out here, and aside from the huge birds of prey ripping flesh from the dead roos and boars which litter the roads, we saw very little wildlife. The cows are thin and miserable looking, and huddle together in the sparse shade. We have no cell phone signal, and keep a silent prayer running at all times that we will not break down! Cars cross our path every so often, and we each wave to show we are ok. This land makes allies of strangers.

The only welcomed interruption on the long haul from Karumba to Cloncurry is the Burke and Wills Roadhouse, famous in these parts, and the only place to stop for fuel for both your car and yourself. As we drove into the little rest area, we were greeted by five oversized, terrifying road trains. We had only passed one up until that point, and I was not prepared for their awesome size. Each laden with three trailers, double story, with cattle crammed in like sardines, these huge beasts mean business. The truckies were sat outside the roadhouse eating bacon sarnies and chewing the fat. We walked passed them towards the loo, where the ever present danger of snakes was thrust into my face from the sign on the door. "Please keep ladies toilet door closed at all times. Brown snakes like to visit very often!". Just one of the most venomous kinds then, and poised to strike when I'm at my most vulnerable. I only entered after asking the previous occupier if there were any visitors present. She looked at me as if I was a loon, and said no. Let's just say it was a rushed affair.

We had vegemite sandwiches at the side of the road, and saw Bill and Diana again. Again, lovely to see a caring face, and to know that they were following close behind should anything go wrong.

We let a few road trains pull out ahead of us, but we soon caught up. We would have needed to leave a kilometre open in order to pull out safely and overtake, which on a single lane highway (at best) is a little risky. We sat behind him as he chugged along around 100kph. The drive was long, but it felt good to cover the distance towards civilisation. I suddenly had reception on my phone: humans were near! We stopped for fuel in Cloncurry but pushed on the 160k towards Mt Isa. Seeing the town loom out of the desert was a strange sensation after a week away from what seems like anything. We found the campsite referenced in the Lonely Planet, and booked in for two nights, knowing we need a day off from the road, and more than just 18 hours on the ground. We set up the tent, washed the several ounces of dust built up on our skin, and set off into the town. We gave Hector, our Landy, a shower too, and I basically hauled Elly into Coles - a real supermarket at last! We stocked up and went way over budget - but honestly I just don't care.

Back to the campsite to settle in at the well equipped kitchen for spaghetti. It feels great to be back on the well trodden path again. I find myself longing for England and our 'remote' countryside.