Out of the Outback, and through the gem fields, we continued on our way into Central Queensland. Once you turn off the main 'Inland Highway' there is a further 40km drive into the Carnarvon National Park containing one of Queensland's natural gems, Carnarvon Gorge. On the drive into the National Park you slowly, but surely, sense that you are driving towards somewhere a bit special. Large escarpments and white sandstone cliffs dominate the skyline. Driving along the sealed road all I could think of was that we were driving into someone's private Estate or some huge safari park, although it wasn't advertised as a safari park! On the drive in (and out) you had to watch out for the wandering stock, the cattle looked at you disdainfully as you passed through their grazing grounds. Emus scattered under cover as you drove along and you become more and more aware of the birds and their calls. By this time you realised that you were concentrating on what was around you as opposed to the road in front of you. You were entering "natures' homestead" after all!

We had booked our campsite in the 'Bush Resort' of Takarraka - great name, but the Australians' use the word 'Resort' loosely and it was not what Europeans would call a resort! Nevertheless we were camping in a National Park in the Bush. We travelled during the dry season and fortunately could easily drive into the Park. In the wet season, forget it, as the gorge floods and road access is extremely difficult. At this time of year, however, we were not put off by the 'Fast flowing water' sign that stood in front of one of the many floodways.

Carnarvon Gorge is, in my opinion, not really marketed well enough as it is absolutely stunning but, generally, doesn't seem to be on everyone's bucket list but it should be! The Sandstone Gorge has been carved through sedimentary rock over millions of years and what is left is a lush, other-world, oasis in a very dry part of the country.

The 30km long Gorge with 200m high cliffs is part of the larger National Park, most of which is inaccessible, but we managed to enjoy a large part of it in the short time we were there. The Gorge is divided into upper, middle and lower areas. It is for walkers, and you need to be fit, healthy and experienced to do the upper section, and pretty healthy to do the middle section. At our 'welcome meeting' at the 'Resort' (just after Happy Hour!) new arrivals were given information on the walks, which was extremely useful (perhaps this helped to give it a 'resort' status?!).

So, armed with our walking tips, we were recommended to walk to the top of the 'middle' gorge (a mere 6kms) and then work back, adding to our walk the canyons and gorges that extend like arms off of the main track. We did realise it was going to be a full day of walking, something which Sally and I had not considered before. Our longest trek thus far had only been up to 7kms. This full day excursion was pushing the limits a bit. I felt that, with my long distance running background (albeit 40 years ago), I should be able to cope. Having said that I haven't run or walked anywhere near the distances shown on the map for years, but Sally was not so confident……!

Six hours later, after 17kms of walking up and down sand, dirt, rocks, creeks, ladders, large stones, paved and unpaved walkways, we completed our day's walk. We covered the whole middle section of the Carnarvon Gorge and visited the main four 'places to go'. The 4 sections (Moss Garden, Amphitheatre, Wards Canyon and the Art Gallery) were all wonderful 'small' excursions and each had their own appeal. It was just such a long walk!!!!

The reason we probably enjoyed this challenge and walk so much was that we considered it a proper walk with little, or no, restrictions. If you couldn't manage something you simply turned around. There were no warning signs saying 'don't go near the edge, you might slip' or 'watch out as there is a dangerous piece of rock in front of you'. If you wanted to clamber over a rock to carry on that was your choice, use your bloody common sense! I do so hope some of the Health and Safety nonsense we put up with in the UK doesn't come to these parts of Australia, as it will genuinely spoil such outdoor adventures.

We had the pleasure of seeing some of the most wonderful natural sights during our walk. Areas where once convicts had escaped and hidden in rock caves; where brothers had even set up their home in a cave to catch possums; and Aboriginals had held their meetings, leaving their rock art for all to see, from thousands of years ago. The natural fauna (some of which is unique to the area), vegetation and geology were simply stunning. However, to get to these places we walked on single track paths, some with little or no sides on them, clambered under rock faces with rocks jutting out, walked across several creeks over (wobbly) stepping stones using either your balance or a good walking stick to get across. On visiting the Amphitheatre we had to climb steep (see-through) steel steps and across mesh flooring. I emphasize the see-through aspect merely as this is not one of Sally's preferred walking choices, and they were steep ladders, which you had to walk down backwards!

During our walk we would inevitably meet the same people, who were criss-crossing the same paths, and there was always a smile or a passing pleasantry. Even to the point where Sally and I had decided that, at one of the most beautiful creeks, to stop and rest our weary feet in the water - bloody hell, was it cold! At that particular moment along comes the only guided tour group, the biggest group that we were to meet during the day, and so we were subjected to ten or so Aussies passing the obligatory humorous comments - all part of the experience I suppose given that we just wanted a moment to take in the beautiful surroundings!

Whilst walking back, on the same path, we were still looking around at every stage as there was always something to look at, most notably the abundant wildlife. It seems that the native Whiptail wallabies are quite used to humans. Whilst walking, if the kookaburras, finches, currawongs and apostle birds were quiet for a minute, you could hear a munching of the long grass, only to find that you were standing within a couple of metres of these wild wallabies. They looked at you and checked you out, then just carried on munching. Awesome! However, our biggest surprise was returning to the campsite and going for a short walk around the site at dusk where we finally got to see the most elusive of mammals - the Platypus, swimming in the creek near our campsite. What an absolute pleasure!

Having visited the four main areas we walked back to the Visitor Centre where Sally reminded me that, despite already walking 17kms today, Winnie was still a further 500m away at the far end of the now empty car park!!! Hmmm, no, I was not going to get the van! Madly we agreed we were going to do another walk next day, if muscles allowed, to view the lower gorge.

Next day, after a full brekkie (no fancy tomatoes for those of you that know my cooking skills!) we went on a shorter 5km walk which turned out to be the most amazing walk yet. This short walk should only be about 1.5hrs according to the info sheet. We followed the path of the gorge, turning into a narrow creek, which then turned into a squeeze between a crack in the gorge walls. Somehow we managed to keep our feet dry and not bang our heads on an incredible trek. We passed the sign stating that the 'formed track ends here' and clambered, scrambled, slid, hopped and wobbled over everything put in front of us to go through a crack in the huge 200m high gorge walls and test our walking skills to the limit. At one point, feeling like spiderman, I realised that I had to 'walk' in the shape of a cross, one hand and foot on each gorge wall, along the gap in the gully to move from one end to the other and avoid the cold creek in the middle. A large boulder stopped me going further but who on earth found this trail in the first place must have been some pioneer!

Pictures were taken at every opportunity, but we don't feel that the enormity, and to a degree, the danger can be realised in our pictures, but do hope that the few we took will give you an idea of the scale and size of this most magnificent of natural landscapes.

So we bid farewell to another 'Gorgeous' walk, quite different to all the others we have completed and travel onwards east towards our final destination back on the Gold Coast.