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Travels through Tartary
I am now in Chongquing, insouth western China. We arrived here at 7:00am this morning, having cruised up the Yangtze for three days from Yichang. Chongquing is the seventh province we've visited in China and we'll be criss-crossing it and Szechuan for the next week or so.
En route to Chongquing, we saw the three gorges dam, crossed six ship locks, saw the three gorges themselves, saw the mini three gorges, watched monkeys frolicking on cliff faces, cruised up a narrow canyon on a small boat and listened to boatmen singing.
Prior to that we were in Wudang Shan - an area of immense, sheer-sided limestone mountains. It is an interesting place to visit in a large, lumbering truck and nothing comes close to the feeling you get from looking vertically down 1,000m as the truck swings out to take a corner.
Wudang Shan is famous for its temples and its martial arts (it is the home of Tai Chi). The scenery is fabulous - imagine the mountains that typically feature in traditional chinese painting and you'll have an idea. When we were there it was misty, but that just added to the atmosphere.
In between tourist sights, we have been in deepest darkest China. Places where no white man has been before. It has been the first time since entering China that entire streets have stopped what they were doing, just so that people could stare at us as we walked through. We have been featured in a local newspaper (largely due to the fact that the truck now sports a painted yak's skull on its front bumper) and in one place I think we accidentally started a religion due to a mix-up while ordering food.
We celebrated our hundredth day on the road yesterday, with a bottle of Great Wall wine on the sun deck of the Yangtze ferry. There are now only two weeks left before we are due to reach Hong Kong.
We have a night in Chongquing and then tomorrow we are off to Chengdu, where we will spend two nights before moving on to see pandas.
After that, who knows. Southern China is being flooded at the moment, with Guanxi and Guandong badly affected (two dams in Guandong have cracked and are leaking - causing towns to be evacuated). We haven't had much in the way of rain, but the humidity is high and stepping outside makes you just as wet. We are hoping for some rain to formalise the arrangement.
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