I journeyed back to Puerto Natales - I'm sure the Argentineans are going to start thinking I'm drug running with my 8th visit across the border - this time with Nicola and Haley. After the comedy of half the bus trying to eat their remaining fruit, cheese and tortoises (Nope, I've got no idea why that picture is on with all the prohibited food!) and the rest of us not really knowing what was going on we were allowed entry into Chile. Very different from the lax Argentinean side!

The first day was spent discussing our proposed trek and eliciting that we were all a little nervous, some more than others..... and did we really want to go if it was chucking it down with rain and/or snow? Persuasive use of PMA and a promise that if the weather was really bad we'd come back meant the next few hours were filled with equipment hiring (yes I can put up a tent, but ok we'll practice), food buying (how much pasta is too much?) and money extracting (that's if you can work out which door of the bank is unlocking in time?). The evening saw us unpacking and repacking with all the gear. I'm proud to say this was the lightest my rucksack has been since I left the UK..... 13kg!

The following morning saw us waiting for our promised breakfast at the hostel.... and waiting.... and waiting. Unfortunately it didn't appear before our transport did. Not a great start!  We arrived at the Rangers Station at the start of Torres del Paine National Park, after falling upon a piece of rhubarb strudel and cafe con leche in a well-placed cafe, in just about one piece. The rest of the trekkers were starting out at the other end of the trail so we were left with the ranger, our packs and hope in our hearts!! The sky was blue. The towers were poking through the low clouds. We were ready. Or were we? Which way do we go?! The ranger found all the dithering quite amusing, and was only slightly concerned that it took us double the "normal" time to gather ourselves and actually set off. The road headed downhill and the sun was shining. Aaaahhhhh! This is the life! Well, for 10 minutes anyway. We were all so bundled up that the sweat was pouring off us after a few millimetres of walking so we had to stop and take off some layers. Off again. Oh no, Haley needed to extend her walking pole. Off again. Oh no, Shona wanted to take a photo. Off again. Oh no, Nicola had to extract her camera from the depths of her rucksack. Off again. Yes, it finally happened! We walked for about two hours until the base of the hills began then settled down for some soup. Yum! Then the workout began. I've never really walked in snow.....

A few hours later and several metres higher we reached the campsite to find over 30cm of snow everywhere. We got down to work and put up the tent, started heating water and generally cooled down from our exertions. Unfortunately as the skies darkened and the air temperature dropped so did our body temperatures. We lasted outside til the late hour of 6.30pm then all made a bolt for the tent. After a few comedy photos we settled down to read, listen to music and generally chill. The night that followed was.....interesting. I think I can safely say that the total number of hours of sleep gained between us was fewer than 10 but greater than 5, looking on the bright side! Our tent had an unfortunate flaw. It sucked water in through the ground sheet. Brrrrr! No more comments necessary - use your imagination!

The morning dawned with little change in light. Low lying clouds and rain prevented our planned scramble up the mountain to the lookout and we were all pretty numb. ?A hearty breakfast and a cup of tea (naturally) perked us all up and we set off down the mountain in relatively high spirits. ?The walk back was filled with discussions about kitchen implements (thanks Tim!), a little singing and absolutely no moaning (despite the predictions made by George and Andy). All in all, my first snow hiking experience was great. I will go back one day to complete the "w" circuit of the park - might wait for the summer though!

Off now to board the ferry - joy of joys, 4 nights on the water and I can't stay out on deck for all of them!! - up to Puerto Montt. Then back into Argentina to visit Bariloche....

Love to hear from you all soon.  Much Love, Me xx