First off - a big THANK YOU - to everyone who has sent us messages - we really appreciate it - makes us feel our efforts are worthwhile; keep them a coming. OK - so we decided to take the overnight 'hard' sleeper train from Nha Trang to Hoi An - some 470km but at only 405k VND (£12) each it was cheap - plus saved us a night's hotel costs. It is 6 in a berth/cabin with 3 bunks either side - we got the last bunks - top ones! As it was we shared with 2 Brits and 2 locals. We chatted until 11.30 then tried to get some sleep. Not easy - lights outside, train jerking, tannoy announcements at every stop - we got a couple of hours of broken shut-eye before rising around 7am. We slipped slowly into Da Nang around 08.40 and dodged past the taxis who wanted 300k VND for Hoi An and marched 1km or so towards the main road. We eventually got assistance from locals who got us on the Hoi An local bus - 50k VND (£1.60) each for the 30+km trip - to somewhere in Hoi An! It took over an hour sitting on the bus floor and conductor's stool! In that time 2 Russians boarded in Da Nang and argued that 50K was too high and 18k was fair - however the conductor disagreed as did the local passengers - so they got off still in Da Nang...!? When we got to Hoi An we paid 50K VND each to get a Motorbike Taxi - yes - 2 guys on old Hondas with our luggage between their knees and us on the back with backpacks - quite a ride in Vietnamese streets - we got to our Hotel in 10mins in 1 piece. Han Thuyen - our hotel was incredible. Staying here 5 nights at around £9.15 per night inc. breakfast! Set on a main but quiet road out of Hoi An the hotel was impeccably clean and quiet. We had a room with AC, fridge, TV and seperate bathroom with hot shower, wc, free bottled water x2 and coffee making facilities. Cleaned daily the ground floor room was beautiful and modern (R101). Reception was helpful and polite. Wifi was weak and intermittent. Breakfast was usual choices, good choices though - like noodles, rice, eggs, toast and pancakes plus a hot or cold drink choice - followed by a fresh fruit mix - tasty! Short walk to good eateries nearby and they let you use bicycles for free. We settled in and grabbed a great dinner at Restaurant 328 some 400m up the road - we returned there regularly for the fine strong flavours. Early night and a great sleep after the train ride. Breakfast was tasty with friendly service and the weather was overcast but 22 degrees or so. We walked in to Hoi An and spent the day refreshing our memories of the day we spent there in 2010 on our Asia Cruise. We revisited Cafe 96 - which had been refurbished in the last few months and tried some Nem (triangular rice pastry 'spring rolls') plus some squid with pineapple - as ever delicious and right on the Hoi An river front. We relaxed. We spent hours walking the streets and I caught up on some photos - see them later.... Hoi An is so relaxing - streets with no cars - few motos and mainly bicycles. A very 'Euro' mix of clientele and shops to match - coffee shops through to art, photo and tailors. There are small market areas that locals use and some older women sell trinkets and boat trips across the river. We relaxed some more. Next day we took out some of the hotel bikes to explore the village life. I fitted fine but Sheryl struggled even with the seat down low. I led and we took some back lanes across the paddies and to the beach and lighthouse - weather was great again - warm but overcast. We then headed to the small villages and more paddies. It was when I stopped for a photo that I heard a crash and Sheryl was prostrate - she had hurt her ankle and it was sore! We were luckily only 2-3 km from the hotel. We checked it and she 'walked it off' then we pedaled back. We covered it with ice cold cans and let it rest, it was sprained and blackened up fast. I got her comfy and went back out to cover more ground - mainly paddies and the river front where the local ferry crosses - a real taste of Vietnam. Sheryl slept well and next day she rested her black foot. I hit the bike trail again and covered the northern part of Hoi An across fields, lanes, paths, through villages and more - I saw so many turquoise kingfishers and cranes - even stopped to watch ironmongers at work! Sheryl was better when I got back and could walk - so we walked to dinner. At 1740 our host tells us it was Full Moon celebrations at Hoi An - which we were told were the next day! So I ran back to the hotel and got a bicycle, rode back to the restaurant and sat Sheryl on the rear parcel shelf! I then bike us to Hoi An. We parked up and enjoyed the evening - drinks at Cafe 96 and a walk around - slowly. It was very busy with 100s of people milling and enjoying the balmy eve. River front had 'lights out' and locals were selling floating candle-boats for tourists to put on the river. It was great fun. The real fun was when we saw a 'Pinyata' - basically 5k VND gets you a mask to wear and you have 1 attempt to hit and break an earthenware jar hanging in the air to win a small hand made purse. I was itching to have a hit. I hustled to the front - donned my mask and took 5 steps forward - whack - SMASH - hit it! I was a momentary celebrity and took my winnings - Sheryl's Valentine's night present. My cycle back was hilarious - and slow - but we did it! Next day we had booked through our hotel - Han Thuyen - for 120k VND each (excludes entry fee 100k VND each) it was a bus-out and boat-back trip to My Son (pronounced me son). We don't usually do 'tourist trips' as they are too prescriptive - however we Loved this one! Picked up 07.40 in a 16 seater comfortable bus from hotel - then off by road to My Son - 1 stop for 'coffee'. Took around 1hr 20mins (50km). Guide took Sheryl and most of the tour around - with Sheryl being top Girly Swot knowing all the answers to the guide's questions - as ever. I walked on my own to get around in the 1hr 20mins we were allocated before return. Took 262 pics - although there were many visitors getting great pics was easy given the jungle location. It is like a very small Angkor Wat - but many temples are badly damaged (by the US in the war) and ruined. Then a 45min bus trip to a boat - boat trip including a basic rice/veg lunch! Drinks were extra - by choice. 25 min ride to a small 'cultural village' as a show-and-sell session but pleasant too. Then 10 min boat ride back to Hoi An! Awesome value - great fun. We got back late and had a relaxing dinner. We got packed and ready and next day said our goodbyes and were whisked by 'moto-taxi' to our bus - next stop Hue. We had loved Hoi An as we knew we would and Hue promised the 'same-same'... but different...... by city bus.