We ground to a halt about two thirds of the way up Abra de Barro Negro (Black Mud Pass). Steam was pouring from the front of the bus and passengers started to run in and out, filling their plastic bottles with water from puddles and streams and hurrying back to the driver who was filling the radiator. Eventually we made it over the pass, but having gone from 3000m to the canyon bottom at 55m, and back up to 3700m on dirt roads, it is hardly surprising that these aging buses struggle.

When we arrived at tiny Leymebamba with its cobbled streets I read that I had crossed the Continental Divide, but I've never been sure exactly what that means. The area is surrounded by ruins and sarcophagi left by various cultures, including some burial chambers at Laguna de los Condorés where 219 mummies were discovered in 1996. I have seen other mummies in Argentina and Chile, but standing in front of a room full of this number of them was something else. I didn't get to the laguna, only the museum, but I took a horse ride up an 800m hill to a group of circular houses at La Congona. These are Chachapoyan ruins, as is the huge fortress at Kuélap which stands on top of a high ridge. If this were more accessible it would be a top tourist site, but out here it was a peaceful place to visit, very impressive, and well worth the effort.

This is also the best area to see the Marvellous Spatuletail - a hummingbird with unique tail feathers which it uses in courting rituals, taking much of its energy to work the spatules. I tried to get some photos of various hummingbirds, but they are as small and as quick as insects, so it is a very difficult task.

After Leymebamba the road follows the Utcubamba River to Chachapoyas where I hiked to what is apparently the world's third highest waterfall. An impressive sight, but what I find incredible is that although I could hike there from a main road in less than four hours, the waterfall was only discovered in 2005. Imagine what could still remain undiscovered in the vast rain forest to the east of here!

Another day of local buses heading eastward and I finally started to see palm trees and jungle outside the window. At 500m above sea level, this hot and humid town is almost at the end of the road. Two more hours to Yurimagaus and there is only river transport beyond. I look forward to the change of scenery, but so far it was the journey here that I will remember rather than the arrival. I have never seen such a variety of scenery on one road. It was quite something.