People-watching from a bench in the central plaza of villages, towns and cities has been a popular pastime so far in South America. During this last week the plazas have become prettier and more ornate, and the people being watched have darker skins and wear more elaborate clothing - particularly the women with their embroidered dresses, hats and long, dark plaited hair. That this is a different country is obvious at first glance, but it is also apparent that I a...