It was difficult to avoid the hike up Poon Hill this morning, as hundreds of trekkers were up at 3-30AM making lots of noise before heading up to the 3200m viewpoint for sunrise. Poon Hill is only a couple of days walk from Pokhara, so it is popular. But if I continue to the Sanctuary, I should also get a similar view from Deurali Pass.

I say "if" because I'm starting to tire, and hiking every day with a heavy rucksack is beginning to take its toll on my back and shoulders. A dip in the hot springs at Tatopani helped, but there is definitely a temptation to head straight to Pokhara from here and rest for a while.

I have now left the dusty road of Mustang behind in favour of some good tracks through rice terraces, villages filled with colourful flowers, butterflies and people; and past meandering streams. It was a tough climb back up to this height though, having dipped all the way back down to 1170m at Tatopani. But those who skip the final section of the Annapurna Circuit not only miss out on these beautiful trails; they also miss some villages full of character such as Marpha with its water system running under the narrow paved streets; the Dutch run High Plains Inn at Tukuche with the best rooms on the trek, and great food; Ghasa - the southernmost village of Mustang; and Tatopani with the hot springs, wide variety of food and wonderful views of Nilgiri. And with its mud brick houses and enticing views of the restricted area of Upper Mustang, the village of Kagbeni is north of the regular departure point of Jomsom, so everyone at least gets a chance to visit this one, which made a delightful overnight break.

Unlike Manang, Mustang is alive with agriculture, but famed particularly for its apples and wild field mushrooms. The apples are delicious, as sampled in various apple pies, crumbles and fruit juices.

I did manage to avoid some sections of the dusty road that has driven many trekkers away by crossing to the east bank when bridges allowed it. It was very pleasant walking there and allowed me to see some lesser-visited villages and a monastery that was under repair, and being project managed by a monk.

Another anecdote from one of the locals amused me one morning when there where white clouds up on the mountain tops. It was clearly snowing up there, and I was informed that this meant the snow leopard was coming. Little chance of seeing it though - these creatures are so elusive that there is hardly even any camera footage of them, and locals think of them as almost mythical rather than real. I did however see a white-capped river chat; and a black snake with a green head. I didn't get too close to that one.

The lack of people on this stretch has provided little opportunity to find new regular companions. This, I think is partly what is leading to the lure of Pokhara - it's harder to keep motivated in a party of one. But there are many people in Ghorepani as several trails merge here, so this should be less of a problem whichever route I decide to take.

Posted from Pokhara, November 12th 2010.