2-0AM: I emerged from a wooden bunkhouse under a clear night sky filled with millions of stars. This was a huge relief after many days of rain. I'm 3323m above sea level, and 50m above the large Laban Rata rest house where I will get "supper". Even though I was in bed at 7-0PM, I didn't sleep much as my head was pounding from the big change in altitude after yesterday's ascent through the clouds.

4-0AM: Sayat-Sayat checkpoint, 3668m. Some of the mountain's pinnacles such as the aptly named Donkey Ears are silhouetted against the starry sky, and a stream of head torches can be seen on the trail below. We are above the forest, and much of the ascent now is on bare rock with the help of a permanently attached rope.

5-10AM: Low's Peak, 4095m. I was one of the last to leave, but one of the first to arrive on this narrow summit peak of Mount Kinabalu. The orange glow of the sun is already making it's presence known in the east, and the sheer drop into the dark abyss of Low's Gully is right in front of us to the north. At 1800m from here to the bottom, this is the deepest gully in the world. It was made famous in 1994 when a team of five from the British Army were the first human beings ever to set foot on the gully floor. But the expedition was doomed, and they barely made it out alive, let alone document the large number of unknown species that are living down there.

6-0AM: The sun's rays are now hitting the surrounding rocky peaks, which are one of the many features that make this a very special place. There is not another mountain that is even close to this height for many hundreds of miles, and since we are a long way above the clouds now, it is certainly earning its alternative title of the Roof of Borneo.

11-15AM: I reached the park gate after a knee-crunching descent of around 2300m. The ridiculous plastic nametag around my neck is checked for the last time, and I say goodbye to Peter, my guide. I still have a buffet lunch to claim at the restaurant, which is included in the price of the ascent.

With a guide who did nothing more than follow me, a hiking permit, conservation fee, insurance (even though I have my own), food, lodge and bus ride to the gate - all compulsory - the grand total is around $200 (US), making this the most expensive mountain I've ever climbed. A single company owns the land and accommodation on the only route of ascent, so they can charge whatever they like. It was a tough decision whether or not to boycott this mountain in protest, but since it was one of the main reasons I came to Borneo, then all I can do is complain about it. The behaviour of this company is outrageous, and I wish they could be prevented from stealing such a wonderful mountain from the public.

All in all though, it was a great experience, and I couldn't have found a better window in the weather in which to climb. I knew that it was a good omen when I was offered this date, as it marks 6 months since I left the UK.

Posted from Kota Kinabalu, 9th April 2011.