We reached the ice line at 1-55AM, and within half an hour were weaving our way between some magnificent ice structures that were stunningly beautiful in the light of the half moon and our head torches. If glaciers weren't continually on the move, I'm sure someone would have given names to these places such as the giant mushroom, or the church organ. We crossed two crevasses near here which made me glad that I was in the good hands of local climber Pablo, who had been up here many times since the age of fifteen.

When dawn broke, I was feeling the effects of high altitude climbing. Every couple of steps needed a short rest, and even unsnagging the rope from around small clumps of ice was sapping the remains of my energy. I thought we were climbing in a gully, but when I allowed my eyes to adjust I realized that the snow was only on one side of us, and on the other it wasn't snow at all but a blanket of clouds a long way below. We became two tiny splashes of colour on the huge white cone of Ecuador's second highest volcano.

The summit of Cotopaxi is at 5,897m (19,347 ft), and at 6-30AM this became the highest point that I have ever been. I have never seen the ground so far below before, or been so far above the clouds except in an aircraft. The other giant volcanoes could be seen in the distance, including Chimborazo whose summit is the furthest point from the earth's centre. It was an amazing sight, but I was so exhausted that I wondered at first if I had enough energy left to get down again.

On the days prior to the climb I had been gradually working my way higher to acclimitize. I first stayed at the village of Quilotoa, which sits on top of the crater of a volcano at 3860m. From there I hiked along the crater rim and down to Chugchilan through Kichwa speaking villages where locals wear hats with feathers. Known as the Quilotoa loop this was a beautiful area, and I had to travel part of it crammed into the back of the morning "milk truck" with about 30 villagers. It's amazing how jolly they remain when they must have to do this bumpy ride regularly. After this I spent a couple of days in Cotopaxi National Park, camping at 3800m. I attempted to climb Rumiñaui at about 4750m, but only got half way because of bad weather. In all this time I hadn't seen much of the big volcanoes at all because they were in cloud so much of the time; but I had spotted a window in the mountain forecasts and had a good feeling about May 31st. My research and efforts paid off, as you can see!

I made a lot of friends here in the town of Latacunga, and I am very sad to be leaving. I must first follow the trail of luggage that I have left behind on my way here, and then it will be time for a very much needed rest.

Posted from Riobamba, 2nd June 2012