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Early surf and the biggest yet. Forecast said 5 foot, offshore and 14 second interval but that doesn't describe half of it. Up to double overhead on the biggest sets and banjo collects a whole lot on the head after only 5 mins in the lineup! Poor bloke got washed thru something horrible. Getting used to this break now so set up in my usual spot. A bit wide of the pack and further down the line. Got a whole lot of mid sized ones and a couple of sets to overhead and a half that swung wide. Rapt. Ryan was sitting real deep and made some boomers all the way thru, including one of the mega set that cleaned up banj. Made the, now usual 600 m paddle back to the beach with Bernard, who also got a couple of screamers, and realized we were twenty mins from missing the Melia's huge allyoucaneat breaky. So , only thing to do with a coupla kays to go. Run. Made it by 5 mins and walked into the dining room in old guy uniform of boardys rashie, reef boots and flappy hat.... And yellow board. Classic looks from the staff and guests.
Restful day to get ready for all night flight and dirty duck for dinner. Mine was yum( crispy fried duck) but food a bit hot for Bernard and banjo.
Off to the airport and a nice chat with 3 Japanese fishes. Not much language between us but lots of fish photos and laughs. Live traveling!
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