The bus journey with Tur Bus was very good - we had TV and were treated to evening and early morning snacks. We were really comfortable on our camas - big comfy seats that fold flat into beds - and so a very reasonable night's sleep was had by us both. We awoke in the very early morning when the bus pulled into Antofagasta (which originally was to be a stopover) but by the time it had left the city boundary and was climbing in the direction of Calama we were back in the land of nod. When we next awoke at about 8am we were in the middle of the Atacama Desert, the highest and driest desert in the world. We'd no idea how long we'd been travelling through the desert but it was another four hours before we pulled into San Pedro de Atacama. All this time the desert showed virtually no sign of life or vegetation apart from an occasional sighting of guanacos foraging on the meagre scrub. This is an area of enormous wealth for Chile because of its mining for copper, lithium and other minerals. Although this is a vast desert, because of the mining there is a road and community infrastructure which makes travel fairly easy.When we got off the bus around noon we were hit by a dry, dry, dusty heat. Our accommodation was nearby and as we walked the narrow streets lined with colourful but crumbling adobe walls and buildings we both wondered where we'd come to. However, it very soon became apparent that San Pedro is a really interesting, and for us unique, oasis. It's well served by accommodation, bars, cafes, restaurants, corner food shops, tour companies and good quality craft shops, all around a pretty square and old style Spanish/Inca church of adobe walls and cactus wood roof. In fact the place really buzzes. We were pleased with our room at the Corvatch Hotel/Hostel which is putting lots of work into improving and expanding the accommodation around a really pleasant courtyard setting. Our first priority was a cup of coffee in the square and lo and behold who should just walk past our table but Arnd and Sebastian (from Luna Sonrisa in Valparaiso) who'd only just returned from Bolivia. It was really great to see them again and we arranged to meet for dinner that night. Next, we popped into the Geminis office to book our bus to Salta which goes on Tuesdays, not Wednesdays as expected, so we needed to make some adjustments to our accommodation arrangements in San Pedro and Salto. Afterwards we went to a recommended tour company (Cosmo Andino) where we booked tours for the next three days. Our main objective was to see the salt pan, wildlife and the lagoons in the Alto Plano at 4,300 metres so this was where we arranged to go the next day. With the altitude and early start we knew we had to be fairly abstemious so our meal with the lads was accompanied by only a couple of beers. It was great to see their photos and hear the story, told with their excellent sense of humour, about their four day trip to Salar de Uyuni across the nearby border in Bolivia. Back in our room we were surprised to find there was no water! This followed a cold shower earlier in the evening when there was no hot water (this problem was caused by the work that was going on and was quickly remedied). However, the 'no water' situation is something that happens regularly in San Pedro. Because of its isolated position it needs to regulate water and power (yes, the electricity goes off on occasions as well).It was up next morning for a 7am pick-up - still no water which, we were told, came back on at 8 am. Well wrapped up against the morning cold we were away and within about 45 minutes had arrived at Salar de Atacama, a vast salt lake and pan and home to flamingoes and other Andean birds. They survive because they've adapted to the severe, harsh conditions and extremely salty water that also contains high levels of arsenic and other minerals. We were lucky to see two types of flamingo (Chilean and Andean), ibis, Andean gull, sandpipers and Andean avocets. Our guide Oscar turned out to have been born in Newcastle of Chilean parents and had spent some years living in Brixton, South London. At this altitude it was easy to walk through the salt pans, keeping a close watch on a neighbouring active volcano smoking away - according to records it has erupted virtually every year. Oscar was pleased to announce that most of the impact of the eruptions, ash and smoke fall on Argentina!After breakfast overlooking the salt lake we were away, and this time up another 1,800 metres, where we got out to climb to 4,300 metres for a view over the stunning Miscanti and Miniques Lagoons set below towering Andean volcanoes. At this height we were all taking it easy but still felt the effects of the thin air and had to take great gasps of breath to fulfil our bodies' need for oxygen. This was an even better excuse than normal to stop and take in the views! Apart from the views we were delighted to see herds of vicuna at the edge of the lagoons and a scavenging Andean fox. Unfortunately at this point E started to feel a bit nauseous and had to skip lunch while M tucked in as usual. Although it was probably partly due to the altitude we suspect it may have been mainly the previous night's meal. E took it very easy for the rest of the trip because even down at San Pedro's relatively high altitude one must be careful. During a stop on the way at the village of Tocanao, where we had a welcome ice cream, we bumped into an Australian couple who had been on our Elqui Valley trip down at La Serena - small world. Back at the hotel E had a turn for the worse and took to his bed.Next day E still wasn't right so M went off herself on the trip to Death Valley and on to see the sun set and moon rise over the Valley of the Moon. She was pleased that Oscar was again her guide and to meet up with a couple who'd been on the previous day's trip. It was interesting to see more of the area and learn how it had been created. Death Valley in the Cordillera de la Sal (Salt Mountains) is aptly named because absolutely nothing lives there. After careering down a huge steep sand dune and a walk along the floor of the valley it was off to Valle de la Luna for another walk before climbing to a crest high above the 'Amphitheatre' to watch the sun set as a full moon rose over the Andes. It was a magical sight and reminded M of a similar event at the Pinnacles Desert in Western Australia. While M was away E rested up until late afternoon when he had a wander round town and a light bite to eat. In the square he bumped into two Irish girls who were also staying in the Corvatch Hostel. Naomi and Megan from Northern Ireland are living and working, teaching English, in Salta across the border in Argentina. The main purpose of their trip to San Pedro was to exit Argentina so they could renew their entry for a further 90 days. Our last day in San Pedro was spent relaxing and enjoying the town, including a look inside the beautiful church and the very interesting and well displayed exhibits of the Archaeological Museum. Because of another power cut we had to wait a while for our daily intake of caffeine, after which M went off to the Tur Bus office to book our seats to Arica on the Chilean coast near the border with Peru where we plan to have a bit of beach therapy. As we hadn't really sample good San Pedro fare since we arrived we decided tonight was the night to do so before leaving in the morning for Argentina. For this reason we'd earlier declined Naomi and Megan's suggestion that we join them for a pizza, so were really pleased when they walked into the same restaurant and joined us at the table. Although both form Northern Ireland they only met when they knew they were going out to Argentina to teach English. They've had interesting lives and are well travelled for ones so young. They both raised funds from their local communities/churches for their trip to South America and are looking forward to doing the circuits of talks and slide shows when they get back home. Interestingly as it turns out they're on the same bus as us to Salta tomorrow so we're looking forward to seeing then again.Leaving some of our stuff at the Corvatch for our return in a few days we headed to the bus, only slightly lighter it seemed. We left on time and five minutes later we all had to get off for the formalities at the Chilean border post which is just on the outskirts of San Pedro and 100+ kms short of the actual border. Back on board and the conductor came round with a free drink (coca cola or sprite) and a tasty roast pork roll. Argentina, country number 19, here we come.Lotsof love

E & M xxxx