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Today is brought to you by the letter R and the letter B. R for the rain that has fallen non-stop overnight and B for the bruises I ended up with after falling down the stairs this morning!
Fortunately I only slipped on the third step from the bottom and no lasting damage was done but I did land in an undignified heap at the bottom and have an impressive bruise on my left hip and one on my left arm where I hit the edges of the steps on my way down. This is something Alex finds incredibly amusing.
At the first break in the weather we headed for Portree. Alex had found that a cafe in the town had wi-fi so our purpose, if nothing else, was to find Cafe Arriba and log on! We dressed anticipating more rain (apart from Alex's ill-conceived decision to wear jeans but more of that later) and arrived in Portree in blustery conditions but the rain, at least, had temporarily departed.
The Tourist Information Centre was a hive of activity and we spent some time looking at various brochures for possible activities to do during inclement weather as it seemed that our first few days in Skye were to be plagued by uncertain conditions. With no accurate forecast to go on it would be a question of opportunistic outings and walking whenever we could. Optimistically Alex bought 40 Country and Coastal Walks - Isle of Skye.
We walked all around Portree and finally located Cafe Arriba on the road leading down to the harbour just as it started to rain again. So, over a cup of coffee for me and chai tea for Alex we logged on for our allocation of 20 minutes or 20 Mb. A quick check of email, Facebook, Twitter and a check of the online booking process and prices for AquaXplore and I was done with time and megabyte-age to spare. Alex, on the other hand, quickly ran out of her allocation before she had even time to check her email.
Leaving the cafe we walked out into rain, which soon deteriorated further into that not particularly heavy but nonetheless drenching rain. Even making a beeline for the long term parking area where we had left the BMW we got a soaking. I had on my weatherproof pants, hiking boots and a waterproof hooded jacket and was able to stay reasonably dry although the rain did manage to get into the pockets of my jacket! Alex, on the other hand, was soon dripping as her jeans just soaked up the rain.
With the heater turned up full blast we drove back home, damp but with mission accomplished. Arriving back in Uig I realised that I was the one who had to get out of the car and open the driveway gates, wait till Alex drove through and then shut them again! Wriggling back into my jacket, I put up the hood and raced to get the gate open then having closed and secured the gate again ran up the (rather steep) driveway to the house.
Putting our wet jackets and boots in the airing cupboard we then stuck Alex's jeans in the dryer and prepared for a wet day in. With a panoramic view over Uig and the harbour it was fascinating watching the changing scene as the day progressed. The ferry continued to dock and depart apparently unaffected by the weather as it plied the route between Uig and Tarbet, across the water on Harris and Lewis.
About 3pm the weather started to clear and, fed up of being indoors, we togged up and decided to risk a walk through Uig Wood (Coille Uige) on the shores of Uig bay. This is the largest broadleaved wood in north Skye and is located conveniently across the road from Sea Loch View.
Taking the path from the main road, just before Conon Bridge, down towards the bay we walked through the wood and along the foreshore past the Village Hall and lastly across the local football field to take us back to the road. We then followed the road back to Sea Loch View where the main road branches up towards Staffin and doubled back along this road to take a second trail leading to Rha Glen and the promise of a waterfall at the end.
The path was muddy and steep but much of it was made accessible by steps which certainly helped as the drop to the river below was quite impressive in parts. Finally the path descended to river level and we stopped the take photos of the water rushing over the rocks. Then we looked up; this was an OMG moment! Just beyond the tree on our right hand the most spectacular waterfall thundered into the gorge, the white water of the River Rha crashing down over the jagged rocks and into the basin below before rushing along the river bed on its way to Uig Bay. Mist filled the basin and, although it was not raining, we were showered with a fine spray from the falls; it mattered little as we still got as close as we could, fascinated by the forces of nature at work only a few metres from where we were standing. The sheer power of the water plunging down the drop was simply breath-taking.
Finally we left the basin and trekked back along the muddy river bank, retracing our steps up the steep steps and along the edge of the river gorge, passing once again the maniacally barking border collies chained up in a farmyard, and heading back down to the A855 and on home.
Rejuvenated by our little, albeit brief, outing, and thrilled by our unexpected find, we spent the rest of the evening indoors. Watched a repeat of The Great British Bake Off, ate cheese and oatcakes, drank cider and Edradour Cream (not together!) and generally chilled out until bedtime.
And so we come to the end of Day 10 in Scotland, and our second day on Skye.
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