Lost in Translation - A Tokyo Layover

I discovered that my flight from Bangkok to Iowa flew through Tokyo, so on my way back to SE Asia I thought I'd change my ticket to stop here for 4 nights. One blizzard and a change of plans later, I've been here for 5 days taking it all in. So, my week in Haiku

Arrive, bleary eyed

At last - baggage claim order!

Love the Japanese

My #1 pet peeve (of many) of airline travel is how people crowd the baggage claim. If people would just take 2 big steps back and step forward only when they see their bags, then EVERYONE could see their bags! Narita airport has a yellow line around the claim for this exact purpose and the Japanese, bless them, follow the instructions to a T.

City so quiet

No English outside airport

Bedtime comes early

First stop fish markets!

5 A.M. train confusion

Ready for sushi...

...market closed Sunday

7 A.M. Sushi breakfast

Thanks, photo menu

Warm up at hostel

Not enough tea in the world

Dorm mates anime geeks

Cosplay kids outside

Dressed in hyperfashion clothes

Playful sense of style

Every Sunday kids dress in elaborate costumes and hang around the Harajuku area (too many syllables to use in Haiku!), to have have their photos taken. By anyone. The Japanese fashion sense is incredible. You won't catch me in miniskirts and knee socks anytime soon, but they can pull it off and it seems a bit ironic rather than childish.

Free sake at bar

Public holiday Monday

Markets again closed

Thankfully the Spanish guy I met in the pub informed me of this before I got up again at 5 am. I also found out that, sadly, the famous tuna auctions were closed to tourists for the time being. On the plus side this meant I no longer had to travel to the markets at 5 am

Coming of Age Day

Young women in kimono

(It's a bit like prom)

Communal dining

Japanese conversation

Welcomed by locals

Smashed in like sardines

With young samurai workers

Somehow it all works

You've probably heard about the crazy Japanese train rush hour, which packs as many people as possible into the train cars. I got to experience this Tuesday morning heading to the fish markets. The amazing thing about it was how completely orderly and simple it was to maneuver, despite the seemingly impossible crowd. There are staff at each platform to usher people in, people next to the door get out of the car to let others exit, those waiting to board stand aside to make an exit point. Like clockwork. I pictured this happening in India, or China. No chance!

Fish market wonder!

Aisles and aisles of crustaceans

Would you eat THAT raw??

Oh, sushi breakfast

Compels me to write Haiku

No photo! She yells

Squid, eel, prawn head, roe

Sea urchin! Fatty tuna!

Pass the wasabi

War shrine / museum

Holy revisionism!

Claim: "Inspired Ghandi"?!?

The Yasukuni shrine commemorates Japan's war dead but is very controversial in its treatments of the more sensitive subjects in modern history (e.g. WWII). The Rape of Nanking is called 'the Nanking incident' and is celebrated for bringing freedom to the people there (!). The US is accused of aggression to provoke the Pearl Harbor attack. And, my personal favourite, at the end Japan sums up WWII with a tribute to anti-colonialism efforts claiming that it was Japan's 'standing up to the West' that gave other nations the courage to uprise against the colonial powers. Underneath this are pictures of Ghandi, Suharto, etc. ...Yeah pretty sure Ghandi was at work long before Japan made its international statement.

Hot soup on cold morn

Order thanks to plastic food

Morning soba slurp

Bound for onsen (bath)

"Romance Car" to mountainside

Fuji? Too cloudy

Naked in hot springs

Outside in winter fresh air

Don't let me offend!

A very funny day taking 'the romance car' (which is just the name for the seated train) to Hakone to get the full traditional bathing experience at an onsen. Similar in a way to a Turkish bath, locals will go to the onsen to sit in hot springs. I arrived and found the place without a problem but upon entering was a bit surprised to find no English anything. I mean, this joint is in the Lonely Planet I cannot be the first Westerner to show up there. So I tried as subtly as possible to follow the lead of other ladies around and thankfully found the women's change room. I was extremely self-conscious about having no idea how the whole thing worked but once I got in it was fine. And blessedly warm against the winter air.

Lost in Translation

Park Hyatt cocktail with view

Fifty second floor

Drinking in North Face

Ew, cocktail tastes of roses

Only tourist? No

Farewell to Japan

Bangkok bound - warmer weather!

Be back in springtime

This was not my last trip to Japan, there is so much more to see in the country than Tokyo. But I will definitely try again when it's a bit warmer outside!