Hi，

Last time I wrote the group were heading out for Helen's birthday in Shanghai. It was a really fun night. We started off in O'Malleys in the French District. However everywhere was expensive, it was like paying for a drink back home but when in the last week your used to paying 40p, it seems ridiculous. We only had one drink in there before heading off to get some food. We found a nice looking place and all ate together but we each chose what we wanted to eat. The food is strange here sometimes you get great food that is yummy but other times when you order meat dishes you get boney meat and there is nothing to it. This happened that night but thankfully we had some pork dumplings to fill us up. We then headed on to another bar we a couple more beers. Taxi's are dirt cheap here. It cost about 2 quid to get a 2o minute taxi back to our hotel- its great. However, we do a lot of walking as you see more that way. That was our last night in Shanghai.

The next day we didn't do a lot but had a wander over to the Bunt (the financial district with the sky line) and had a wander round. It was incredibly busy as it was a Sunday. One thing I think Chinese people lack is politeness. In general they are really friendly and they don't mock or laugh at me when I use the few Chinese (Mandarin) phrases I know. However, they shove past me like something I have never seen before. I don't know whether it's from living in a country with over a billion people but they don't even care. I get shoved about but now I just shove back and shoulder into anyone that deliberately comes my way. I just don't get it, at home you would say excuse me. The Chinese don't, they just physically pull or shove you out the way. When we have been to top tourist sites they are ridiculous pushing and shoving like they will die if they don't get there. There is no etiquette or form of politeness- it drives me mad. Also the spitting- the spitting is fooooooullll. Sometimes it sounds like they are heaving and it turn my stomach. They will spit anywhere. Yuk Yuk Yuk!! It sometimes appears that the Chinese are selfish and only think about themselves and how to benefit them. As I am writing this a guy near me has just houchged and gagged and spat on the floor in the hotel!! Also the kids with their funny open trousers makes me laugh and wander how cold their bums must get. Its fine when they are walking however, when they are being carried if you're a little boy- your bits are on show for all of China to see.

Anyway moving on. That night we boarded our next overnight train. Darren and I had top bunks- this was fine but it isn't very smooth. There also isn't enough room to sit up properly, you kinda end up hunched over. I did have enough room however to make peanut butter sandwiches with my spork (thanks Joshie). I didn't slep much and had nearly finished my book by the time we got to Xi'an. The train ride was quite bumpy and I felt like I was going to fall out even though I had a bar at the side of my bunk to make sure I didn't. Also the toilet situation on the train isn't fun. Squatting toilets are ok until people don't give a s***- literally. I decided to hold it. Our hotel in Xi'an is nice- can't really complain about anywhere we have stayed. The food can be hit and miss but generally it's great.

That day we headed our for a wander round Xi'an to see what there was etc. There isn't as much to do here aside from walking but that is nice as it will good to slow down a bit. We have two nights here before another train- sadly this train will be during the day. The trains aren't so bad though, you have a little room to move around not much but you have no door on your compartment but because we are a tour we are generally in two compartments so it's ok.. The best thing about today was we were going to see the Terracotta Warriors. Yippie. We took a private bus which was a round an hour to where they were. It was awesome. The idea behind the warriors is that they were to protect a certain Emperor (can't remember his name) in the afterlife. However, an enemy of the Emperor found them and destroyed them. They were found in the 70's when a family were trying to get water from a well and found pottery. They have found over 8,000 and have so many more to find. They have two huge pits. Pit one they are still digging in and even have 'Poetry Warriors' they are made from lots of different pieces in a jigsaw effect. It was really interesting to see, however now all the warriors have lost there color they would have been painted when they were first made. They were hidden underground and a wooden roof was made over the top and packed with soil. The entrances were sealed when the work was complete. It is believed that all the workers who made the warriors were killed as to not reveal its location etc. I really enjoyed see all the different types of archers, horseman, general and other warriors they had. It was very interesting and a little surreal that this had been built as a protection in the afterlife. After this we headed back into the city. Xi'an is the only city left to have its city wall still in tact around the whole city. Its looks pretty cool when you are driving back in. That night we headed into the Muslim quarter to check out the night market. It is by far the best market we have been too, its how you imagine a proper market to be. The street is all lit up and has an endless line of food and market stalls. I am getting good at bartering and Darren has been impressed with my skills. We spent a while soaking up the atmosphere and looking at all the different types of food they have.

That night we both slept really well- we were both shattered from the train journey and decided as we had a free day tomorrow , we would wake up when we woke up- no alarm needed. It turns out we both needed the sleep as we woke up at 11am. We then headed off to Starbucks to chill out in the sun. It is so warm here after today I am considering braking out the flip flops- yes people it is nearly flip flop time (jealous much). We spend a good couple of hours here talking with members of our group. After this we headed to an expensive supermarket but it was good as it was a more international style supermarket. Bread and cheese seem to be odd to them and are often hard to find in supermarkets which is rubbish!!. We then met up with Lee (German) from our group to head back out to the day markets in the Muslim quarter. We were all really impressed with the level of culture we saw. Markets are markets always good fun, sadly we did see that one lady's camera had gone walkies but it's also nice to have a wander down the narrow streets. But, the next market we went down was a food market and it was incredible. I wish I could upload photos but the internet is so slow. Everything and I mean everything is on sticks! It's great I saw little fried eggs about 5 in a row on sticks, it's just great. I love seeing all the random food they put on sticks, what I don't like is seeing the meat market. In China they believe you should use every art of the animal you are cooking- insert gag here- and that is what I saw.

Tonight we are heading out as a group for a dumpling feast. It is a specialty here and I am looking forward to it. Tomorrow we are up very early to get another long train that get's in at midnight L.

Until then ………..

xxxx