To catch the ferry to the Ssesse Islands from Jinja, you have to take a matatu (and your chances) from Jinja to Kampala; another matatu (thankfully we survived the first part intact) toward Entebbe and get off at the "ferry junction"; from there take a boda-boda down to the ferry. And the ferry looked a landing craft from WWII. Just a whole lot newer. Sounds simple.

But….Every matatu has a conductor. His job is to collect the money from all the other people and give back any change if necessary. Matatus are licensed to carry 13 people. The driver and the conductor don't count. And luggage is never considered. I was a little surprised that a bloke was trying to get onto my lap while closing the door. I think that he was equally surprised to see me sitting there. Him reading his newspaper, and me my book, and a siting arrangement was made. His one bum cheek got one half of the seat. My bum cheek got the other! When he left, I was the conductor. Nothing like integrating in the community!

Getting a matatu to Entebbe is not a problem. There are always plenty going. It is just finding one in the "taxi park". Looking down on the park, it is a mass of white mini-buses! The only indications of order are the little red signs that stick up like beacons above this seething mass indicating destinations. Typical, the Entebbe flag was on the other side of where we were. Down into the mini-bus scrum we go. Surprisingly, there is order and cooperation down here. Ugandans are very easy going and friendly. And this was a place to see it displayed.

After much dodging, skipping of arriving and departing matatus and meandering through mazes of people and buses, we eventaully made the departure point. 45minutes with my bag on my lap, and in my face, didn't seem like such a problem. Otherwise I would be paying for two berths! The passenger next to me just laughed as he squeezed between me, the bag and the side of the matatu.

The boda-boda trip from the ferry junction was heart in the mouth stuff. With 5 minutes to spare before the only ferry departed (but this was Africa, what were the chances it would leave on time?), 3kms and hill between us and the ferry. It was pedal to the meddle! Straining uphill and freewheeling downhill. My bag sat between me and the driver; my backside gripped whatever part of the seat it could. Bumps taken at speed, on a vehicle with a loaded back axle tend to bounce. That which is sat on the seat, tends to bounce very high. There were plenty of times that bag and I left the seat, but some clung on! If you are ever in Uganda and take one of this boda-bodas, then know that the driver will take every gap he can. He measures that gap by the width of his side mirrors. If he has them then he is either good at spatial awareness or just lucky. If you get a boda-boda without any mirrors, then get right off again. No mirrors mean he is neither good or lucky! Anything beyond the width of mirrors, is on a hiding to nothing! With the bag forcing my knees into near 90degree angles from the bike, they are prime targets. How they missed the matatus coming the other way, heaven alone knows. I know I felt the metal skin as we slid by! At a combined speed of 60km, this is not a sensation I care to repeated!

Clamouring aboard the ferry with shaky knees was intense with just a minute or two to spare! It even had a little galley! Bliss. And it actually left on time! Well I never….! The Ssesse Islands are a group of 84 islands situated in the Ugandan section of Lake Victoria 3 hrs from the mainland. What with mass evacuations because of sleeping sickness epidemics years ago, the desire for a better life in city, and its general remoteness, they have a very empty and very relaxed feel. So relaxed is this place is that the main landing was just the main gravel road ending just where the water started. And not a whole lot else. A fishing village to the left and a few resorts to the right. But the description of resort is very loose. Think a few building on a bit of lawn and with a lake side view.If time was a substance, it would be like slightly warm treacle. It moves, just not very fast. And if you want to go anywhere; don't fight it, just go with it. And so this is what it feels like on the islands. Things just move oh so slowly. Africa time here is like fast forward anywhere else! Walking to a place that might take us for the night was hard work. Lifting the cold beers to our lips was an effort, admiring view was tough and just sitting under the forest canopy and watching the world go by was taxing.

But we did it. And gratefully. Hot water here was a heated up jerry can. It was hot even the next morning! The bed was massive and an island in the room. The alarm clock was the forest coming alive. And like any tropical forest, it was a symphony of sound. I even think that we were just one of a pair staying here. Getting out of bed was tough. I think we might have a full blown case of the Warm-treacle virus! A little walk in our neighbourhood took us up a hill and then down that same hill through the forest and onto the beach. Yes beach. Hornhill Campsite is an institution in Uganda with a reputation to maintain. Tucked under the trees, with a white sanded beach and a very rustic feel, the remainder of our day was filled. Cold beers, good food, playful friends (Zulu the dog, and the resident pig - random yes!) and a beach to enjoy with a forest all around. Bliss. I think that the boat on the beach was testimony to that fact, somebody had arrived and decided not to leave! Spending time here, it was easy to understand why! Thick with natural ancient forest, filled with exotic birds and their calls, we decided to follow a path and see where it led. Even though we were never physically far from the nearest home or resort, we might have been a million miles away and million years back in time. Our path eventually took us to the edhe bof the island and the lapping waves tickling the grassline shore. The only evidence the other men existed, was the rotting fishing boat at our feet. The fish eagles standing sentinel were like the guardians of the secret of time travel in this little clearing right at the water's edge. With a setting sunset and goldne light infusing the forest on the walk back, it seemed like a magical kingdowm we were walking through!

One more night, an early start to catch the ferry and the adventure that is Uganda's transport and we were home and ready for school the next day! We couldn't wait!