After the visual feast that is the bus journey from Dar to Arusha, we were very happy to get to our Tanzanian 5 star hotel.

On a trip like this, you cannot forget the Pare and Usamburu mountains that parallel the road. They are also known as the Galapagos of Africa because of the number of new species that seem to be found on the high peaks. Their lush green flanks and remote nature seem to beckon with promise for an aspiring adventurer. But it is not the countless rows of sisal plants stretching off to the horizon, nor the plantations of fruit and vegetables that hold your attention, it is the presence that is Kilimanjaro.

Although hidden by the afternoon cloud with only brief glimpses of the summit, Kili quietly goes about dominating every aspect of daily life around her. As the world's largest free-standing mountain anywhere in the world, it dictates the weather and climate around her and hence the lives on all of those that live on her flanks or within her shadow.

But, but, but. The Impala Hotel did not have our booking. Why was I not surprised. Never mind, after a good few phonecalls,we will be upgraded to their new sister hotel. Fine by me! Here the room was the size of a house and Ing and I needed to phone each other to speak across the room! The size of the bed was bliss as we were starting our camping safari tomorrow.