The Maharajas of Rajasthan were kings, mighty and magnificent. Who gloried in battle preferring victory before death and death before dishonour. Where men were men (and carried all manner of weapons to prove it) and women were grateful for the men. These rulers held absolute sway of their dominions and where fabulously wealthy. One of the Udaipur maharajas had seven arches constructed to commemorate his generosity. Seven times during his reign he weighed himself and distributed the equivalent in gold and silver to his people! May the maharaja live forever!

In Udaipur, the current maharaja is part of a dynasty that stretched back 76 generations. Here they claim to be the world's longest continuing monarchy. Be that as it may, the city palace that overlooks the city of Udaipur and Lake Pichola is a series of palaces that have allowed each subsequent ruler to build upon in the current style of the day. Today the City Palace is where there are two very plush hotels, various permanent exhibits of gems and crystal, the royal apartments and the city palace museum complex are all located. From the air, the whole lot looks like a cruise liner ready to slip her moorings and head out into the Raj countryside.

The Monsoon Palace was only ever used for when the floods where really bad, it has now reverted to a great spot to see the sunset over the hills overlooking Udaipur. On the lake, there is the old Pleasure Palace (it was a hard life being a ruler. You need your pleasure too, you know) and also the summer Lake Palace for when it got far too hot on the mainland; less than 500m away). Both of which are expensive hotels catering to more "refined" tastes of the rich. One palace is leased out to a hotel group, while the other is owned exclusively by the Maharaja's group of companies.

Undeniably impressive as it all is, there seems to be a little seedy side to it as well. If you scratch the surface of things a little harder, and observe what you might find, it is difficult not to be a little cynical of the motives of these "great" rulers.

To get to the ferry to see the lake palaces, you need to pass through certain parts of the whole complex and round and down to the dock. It is here that you notice the lack of care and attention to detail. The walls of the hotels and palaces are slightly grubby, grass verges are unkempt, the gardens are slightly overgrown and mould seems to stand out a little. Overall, the impression is one of just doing enough to get you here (don't the photos look fantastic?), but once we have the cash we are not really bothered.

Everything in, and around, the palaces costs money. It is almost as if you have to pay to sneeze. Even the museum guides have to pay a thwack every six months to retain the "privilege" of guiding! It is very difficult not to be cynical when you know that the Maharaja is making a minimum of 900 000rupee (about £11000) per day just on the gate takings! While those that work for him receive a pittance.

Shame, poor baby; must be starving in that palace of his.