Hi All I had decided to make a brief foray into Cambodia with the same company that I used for the tour of Thailand (Imaginative Traveller). The main purpose of this was to see the 'lost' city of Angkor, which is a World Heritage Site and a 'must-do' when in this part of the world. I met up with a new tour group leader, a young American guy called Tyler. Within minutes I had insulted Americans in general ('they're all pretending to be Canadians because they are hated'), his president ('a dickhead') and demanded that there'd better be a swimming pool at the hotels we were going to. Why was I being so confrontational? Because he was Ronnie's target-audience drop-dead gorgeous of course! I'd always been cynical about the girls on the New Zealand bus tour who threw themselves at the drivers in a sad attempt to sleep with them. Now I found myself with a schoolboy crush, hanging on Tyler's every word, staring into his brown eyes and laughing loudly at anything even remotely funny he said. I'm sure he never noticed a thing...(ahem) We travelled from Bangkok to Siem Reap, the town near Angkor Wat by a variety of vehicles; public bus, tuk-tuk and pick up truck. The public bus had a toilet at the back and I was sat beside it. We were about an hour into the journey and no-one had used the toilet yet. As everyone will know, my bladder is not the most robust of organs and I decided I'd be brave and go first. Sitting in a passenger seat you don't realise how much the bus is bouncing around. That, plus Thai style driving which involves going as fast as possible in any lane, beeping at the vehicle in front until it moves out of your way or you nearly hit it/swerve at the last moment. To put it bluntly I sprayed everywhere in the toilet (it was like a modern art installation piece). I mopped up as best I could and I returned to my seat, aware that everyone had noted I had been brave enough to try the toilets out. Slowly I become aware of a powerful smell of urine permeating the bus. At first I think I've splashed myself and try to discretely check my shorts without the nice Thai girl beside me noticing. The smell became stronger, fouler. It seemed to be coming from the air con. The reek was like Bea's tray had been left unchanged for a very long time in the sun. People in the aisle of the bus started covering their mouths. Surely to God I couldn't be responsible for such a rotten stench. I sank lower in my seat. Eventually the driver's companion (no-one works alone in Thailand) came down the bus with his hand over his mouth and a can of air freshener in the other and fumigated the toilet cubicle. People on my tour group turned to stare accusingly at me. I only hoped Tyler hadn't noticed... After crossing the border, we were put into pick-up trucks and taken on a four hour drive down an unsealed road covered in potholes and red dust. The people, especially the kids, we passed all smiled and waved at us. People seemed genuinely pleased to see us. Then they laughed at us - at me in particular. So did my truck mates. The dust was sticking to my face and I was starting to look like a local. Even Tyler asked me if I'd changed race during the drive. (I'll try to upload the pic but having probs at the moment). That evening we went for dinner at a restaurant that had live crocodiles in a pit. After seeing crocodiles jump out of water I wasn't sure if they were really secure... The next day we saw dawn over Angkor Wat (the main temple and one of the modern wonders of the world); toured various other temples including one used during the filming of Tombraider; went to a Landmine Museum and in the evening saw traditional Khmer folk dancing (Aspara style I think) and dinner. Khmer (or Cambodian) food is great I have to say. Angkor Wat is very touristy now. Loads of kids hang out near where the bus stops and beseige the emerging passengers asking their name and trying to sell them photocopied guides about Angkor. Our guide for the day, a local, told us the girls can be quite pushy and rude and we shouldn't encourage them. I found this out to my cost. Innocently telling one of them my name and saying that I 'MIGHT' buy her book later. 'Hi I'm Raysa. You buy my book later maybe Rennie?' (She called me Rennie which was sweet). She seemed so innocent, so nice, so sweet... ...but later, Raysa turned into a screaming banshee who pursued me relentlessly around Angkor Wat. Every time she saw me she would charge over shouting "You promised you buy my book Rennie! You promised! You MUST remember me!" It was like the words of a nightmare ex-shag. A brief aquaintance who haunts you for ever more, turning up at every club and bar you ever go to... I didn't buy her book. But I did buy stuff off other less pushy kids in other parts of the complex. They're incredibly poor and we are so rich compared to them you feel guilty even bartering with them. The landmine museum is also home to a number of children who have lost arms and legs due to accidently triggering one of the thousands of landmines dotting the countryside of Cambodia. They reckon that it will take 50-100 years to find and clear them all. Despite their handicap we saw kids on crutches with one leg playing football with other able bodied local kids. They were pretty good too! I think if I'm ever feeling hard done by in the future, I'll think back to those kids and how happy they were despite everything. The curator of the museum asks that we publicise it to the outside world so I'm duly doing so by giving you the web address: www.landmine-museum.com If you have about 20 mins go to the site and read 'My Story'. We didn't just tramp around crumbling erections. We had some really nice meals out and went to a few bars as well. I filled my spare time fantasising about going to Vietnam with Tyler (his 'home' for now) and ways to kill the girl who was obviously paying him far too much attention and upstaging me. The journey back to Bangkok was a nightmare bus journey that took even longer, went down even dodgier roads with broken aircon and a van that looked like it might conk out. Still we saw lovely locals along the way who waved, smiled and laughed at us. Angkor Wat was amazing. Go see if you get the chance BUT Tourism will change Cambodia. I hope they don't all become like Raysa... I am back in Bangkok and have a few days left so I'm going to one of the islands for a few days to chill out (Ko Samet) and then I return to the UK on 11 August. Unless Tyler or Brad Pitt (Tyler Durden in Fight Club preferably) turns up on the island, that's the plan anyway. Take care and thanks for all the messages. Will try to upload some pics when I can. Ronnie