Musqat is wonderful

After the disaster that was my New Year in Bahrain Musqat had a lot to live up to. Musqat excelled, the Chedi did not fare so well.

I left Dammam early with my driver Ameer picking me up at 6am. This was because I have learned it is far better to fly out of Bahrain than Dammam. This means the additional hour to drive to the airport. But better than 2 hours in a customs line that never moves. So over the causeway I went at sunrise and it was worth every sleep hour lost. I watched the sun rise over the Gulf and as we approached Bahrain the morning mist settled and it was magic. My spirits lifted greatly. This would be my last daylight trip over the causeway and it was breath taking.

Bahrain airport is nice and clean. Not as big as other airports in the Gulf, but good duty free and several cafes and clean floors and friendly staff. Customs took about 15 mins and I had time to buy some duty free cologne for me and buy Pippa a present that she will have to wait for. It is in the box part 2. Gulf air is average. Not brilliant compared to the competition of Etihad and Emirates, but not bad.

I landed in Musqat, adjusted my watch for the 1 hour time difference and left the plane. My bag was already off the carousel and the money change place is also where I purchase my entry visa. All friendly and quick. The taxis are well organised with prices to the various hotels listed and you are given a receipt so the driver cannot rip you off. If the driver is nice you can tip him at the end of the trip. This was like all the taxis in Musqat. I got to the Chedi and the only hiccough of the trip happened. Unfortunately it was a fairly big one that left the Chedi soured as a place to stay.

The Chedi is fairly isolated and all the grounds are secure and private. This is good, but there is no ATM in the hotel. As I don't have a credit card I arrived with what I thought was enough cash to pay for the room and leave extra for expenses. The hotel charge 25% to exchange currency and I only had Saudi Riyal on me. It looked like I would have to go to a different hotel, but the Chedi were going charge me for the room anyway. After a lot of arguing.(typical of the Arab world), I got my room and walked the 20 mins to town, found a bank, withdrew ample money and returned to the hotel.

From this point I was uncomfortable at the hotel like I was being looked down on as the guy from room 2260 who cannot afford his room. But to cheer up I took a taxi into the main Souk for some retail therapy to cheer me up. It worked a treat and I began to understand why Musqat is so wonderful. For my relatives you have done well from my retail therapy, but again it is all in the box part 2. I strolled along the Kornaish taking in the sea air. Musqat is closer to the equator so warmer than Saudi. (See the photo album).

I returned to the hotel for dinner and sleep. Next day I decided to follow the Lonely Planet Walking tour. This was a great idea and I saw so much. (Also see photo album). Start at the port and visit the fish market. I have never seen so many weird looking fish, prawns, squid and other things. What a process. The boats run up the beach with the tide and men gather, clearing the nets and loading all the fish into wheel barrows. These are wheeled into the stalls where they are bought. Take your fish to the men in the blue tiled cubicles to have them cut up to your liking. The tiles are blood splattered and the stench is over powering. There are cats walking around and flies everywhere. Lonely planet recommends a fish shop for lunch, I had the curry vegetables.

Next stop was the Bait al-Baranda museum. This is built in a traditional Omani house from the 1900s. It began life as a private home, was converted to an American Mission hospital in the 1930's and then renovated during the Oman Renaissance of the 1980s to an Art Gallery and Museum. Sultan Sa'id was 'removed' by the British Army in the 1970s. His son Sultan Qaboos was crowned and the country began to improve greatly. Before Qaboos there were no high schools, 2 primary schools and less than 10kms or paved roads.

Along the Kornaish past the Souk and around to the hilltop watchtower I climbed the tower and took some great shots. These watchtowers are all around Musqat. Mostly built by the Portuguese in the 1500s when they conquered Oman. But Musqat's location has been mapped for centuries as a known trade port for east and west. The forts and watch towers are in various degrees of repair.

I made my way to the Old City via the Portuguese gate museum and had my curry lunch at the fish restaurant recommended by lonely Planet. It was really nice and no D & Vs the next day then along the tree lined avenue to the Sultans palace.

Small on a Buckingham scale, but really beautiful. Oman is not as wealthy as the other Gulf nations as there is no oil. But the Sultan is very pro his people and the wealth is spent on schools, houses, hospital road etc. So his palace is not so grand, but really ornate and colourful.

After the palace I walked around the harbour and more of the coastal cliffs and back to the Muttah Port. A total of nearly 20 kms. But I took all day and had a relaxing time. Musqat was everything I wanted it to be. It is unspoiled by high rise modern architecture. It looks and feels Arabic. Musqat renewed my faith that there are nice Arabs nations somewhere.

Back to the hotel for dinner then I returned to Muttah to walk the tour at night. Next day I had a relaxing time at the hotel pool bar before leaving for my flight back to Bahrain then across the Causeway to Dammam. This will be the last time I will enter Saudi Arabia...En shala.