19AUGUST04 Hello!!!! We have survived Mongolia so far. We had an agonising 9 hours getting through the Russian and Mongolia customs on the train. Locked up with no toilets and feeling the heat, as the windows don't open enough. But finally we made it into Ulaan Baatar which is a city with nothing much going for it. Great dinosaur fossils though! We visited the old winter palace that is a bit run down and rustic, still a great taste of what is to come in China. We spent 2 nights out in the countryside in a Ger camp, the traditional nomad tents with a pot belly stove in the middle. We are both feeling the affects of a 4hr ride on Mongolian horses in the National Park. A great day as we could canter across the open plains or trot along at leisure. Rob didn't have much choice - his horse wanted to canter everywhere, therefore he now thinks he is the Lone Ranger. We were invited to taste the fermented mares milk which would put hairs on the chest of anyone - powerful and bitter. I won't even try to describe the other stuff on offer. So now we are still in Ulaan Baatar as a group of Mongolian Government Officials bumped us off the train this morning. At first we were quite disappointed as its another day down for Beijing but at least we are there for 4 more. Last night on my birthday we saw a Cultural Show, including contortionists (would make your eyes water) and other artists. Great night although they sold us a dud CD. So next time you hear from us we'll be feasting on Peking Duck and being awestruck by the numerous amazing sights. Lets hope anyway. Thanks to all the birthday wishes. Lots of love K+R xx