13 hours and 4 trains later..... here we are in Nikko, North of Tokyo. Arrived at Nikko Park Lodge to find a cosy alpine-looking affair with the dulcet tones of Jack Johnson in the background (it was a CD, he wasn't actually there). We were shown the ropes of where to go in and around Nikko by Ken, our host; for once things weren't Lost in Translation as he speaks perfect English. Friendly chap with lots of ideas.

Then proceeded with our tour of the temples and shrines that Nikko's famous for, interspersed with woodland walks and schnacks. The shrines were pretty busy but managed to find sanctuary in the quieter Taiyuin temple and the eerie woodland Takino shrine in the misty hills above the others. Found a great place to eat that has obviously been 'discovered' before as it's in the Lonely Planet - 'Hippari Dako' with great yakitori. The walls were covered floor to ceiling with basically anything people could get their hands on to write on - ISIC cards, their Japan Rail passes, professional portfolio photographs (we'd forgotten to bring ours!), driving licences etc... each with a message of thanks for a good feast.

The next day we strolled along the river Daiya to the Kanmangafuchi abyss where there are a number of stone statues jizo (dressed in little red hats and bibs) who are said to protect travellers and children. It's said that whenever you count them you'll get a differenct number, so we didn't bother. (What I really mean is that I didn'let Rob count them or we'd have been there all day while he tried to disprove the theorum.) It was a very tranquil place and good to get away from the crowds again.

All in all a great couple of days and would definitely recommend Nikko Park Lodge as an interesting mix of people, friendly atmosphere and comfy comfy beds.