What an amazing few days. After more intense heat, profuse downpours and a Harajuku Girl count of 0 on the Sunday afternoon, we took the overnight sleeper train to Hokkaido, North Japan. Although quite exciting, changing trains 3 times and then sleeping for a grand total of about 2hours left both of us rather cranky.

Arrived at the hostel in gorgeous (although very misty) surroundings. We were a bit worried that if it stayed like this we wouldn't be able to see a thing. Our hostel was called Daisetsuzan Shirakaba-so and was in an area just near Asahidake Mountain called Asahidake Onsen (spa). The volcano is still active and subsequently there are hot springs all around. It's a popular ski resort in the summer but tourist-ville all year round as there's a Ropeway up to the top and it looks pretty amazing all year round.

The weather cleared a little and we managed a walk around the base with lots of pretty autumnal colours and no bear sightings (we were told to take a special bear bell and shake it at opportune moments so as not to startle the bears.....because of course nothing relaxes a bear more than a nice soothing loud bell!). The hostel also had onsight Onsen (spas) indoor and out - the thing about these is you have to be naked. They are thankfully same sex. We were both a bit dubious but finally managed to shed our 'No nudity please we're British' attitudes, and, in fact, our clothes and headed off to our respective baths. Well worth it, just like a giant bath really and had it nearly all to myself. Didn't have the courage to go to the outside one, and when Rob said not only was there a dead frog floating near him but his onsen was on display to all the rooms at the back of the hostel, I decided not to bother!

After eating dinner at 7pm and getting up for breakfast at 6.30am(!!) we decided to head on up the Ropeway to the summit. Only it was shut due to wind and it started to snow!!! Very early apparently - just our luck! SO we would have to walk up the ascent if we wanted any views that day. Well worth it - amazing contrast of autumn gradually becoming winter the further up we went. Check out the pictures of the top - 1600m and absolutely covered in snow. Managed some onesies though, because you have to when on a Mountain Summit. Took about 2hrs total. Thank God the Ropeway had started up for the journey back down. The mist closed in and visibility was lost so just as well we got up there while we did.

Comedy moment on the way up.... while walking through shoulder height foliage, we caught up a Japanese couple ahead. Rob was ahead and shouted 'Arigato' at them, then 'Oops, I mean Konichiwa!' What on earth must the couple have been thinking as a tall smiling Caucasian popped out of the bushes shouting 'Thank You!' and then 'Hello!' Struggled to walk for a bit as I was laughing so much.

All in all a fantastic stay, the staff in the hostel were always smiley and friendly and made the whole thing even better. Would love to go back one day.

Just between trains at the moment in Sapporo, getting the night train back South to Nikko so hope we sleep better this time.