Udaipur is situated in Rajastan, part of the Golden Triangle, so popular with tourists from all over the place. It's understandably rated as one of the most romantic spots in India. A title well deserved. Nestling in the Aravalli hills, the large artificial lake accommodates the Taj Lake Palace hotel, famous for its part in the James Bond film Octop**** A completely white building, with domes and towers which appears to float on the water in the middle of the still water. The hotel is not open to non residents so we have had to content ourselves with views from the shore. The town has a number of linked lies each with its own ambience and a peaceful diversion from the hubbub of the narrow streets around the hotel. We are staying in a haveli in the old town, so roads are narrow , hilly and busy. Since leaving Mumbai there has been a steep increase in the number of white European faces. Many from France, Germany/Austria, and the U.K, as well as a number from the US and Japan. Many, although not all the older travellers, seem to be in groups. We have come across a few through who are venturing round India in pairs or alone, so it's been nice to compare notes. The haveli is very basic but has an intriguing deign. Squeezed into a narrow alley the property seems to be a series of rooms fitted in around a central area which is open to the elements. Similar to a Moroccan riad in some aspects, but more of a maze in others. Although there are no kerbs here (as there aren't any designated pavements as such) there are a huge number of steps to climb to reach the plethora of rooftop cafes which pervade the town. I felt a bit peaky for the first time this morning, which I'm attributing to the altitude sickness from scaling all the flights of stairs. Th view is always worth it, and it's a good incentive no to drink alcohol whilst you're up there- unless you're planning a headlong descent from the top stories. It's unfortunate that the males ( and I say that as it's mostly the men who are driving them), have taken to mopeds and motorbikes around the old town. Aside from the erratic driving and excessive speed, the noise and fumes ruins what is otherwise a beautiful place to be. In Udaipur there are still women who herd groups of donkeys around- using them to take the rubbish from the roadside. Dressed in their bright glittery saris they make a colourful sight and are doing a valuable job. It's just a shame they are at risk of being flattened every time they venture out. Local government officials take note. You have a beautiful location which is being ruined by the influx of smelly motor vehicles. We have had the opportunity to do a significant amount of exploring on foot, and are both resplendent in our new clothes :shirt (John) , and trousers (me), which we had made by one of the tailors here. I'll give them an outing later this week so there should be some pics to follow. We're off to Jaipur on Sunday so more updates to come.