Jaipur- the Pink city Jaipur never really grew on us. From the moment we arrived and were besieged by Jaipurian taxi touts on the platform of Jaipur station it was always going to be an upward battle. The one thing we hate is being taken advantage of. We hate being pressurised into anything, and like to consider our options first. so a sure fire way to get on the wrong side of us is to apply sales pressure. Fortunately our hotel had arranged a free pick up from outside the station, but that didn't make getting off the platform any easier. Having located our driver we soon became part of an almighty squash of traffic trying to leave the station environs. Cars vied with taxis, who vied with tuk tuks, who vied with motorbikes, all vying with pedestrians trying to es cape. Bumpers brushed bodywork, and horns operated on overdrive. We were more than relieved when we pulled in outside our hotel and were met by an extremely amicable Indian man who showed us to our immaculate room, and plied us with complementary tea and coffee. Jaipur had also promised lots of things to see and do, being famous for its pink buildings and large number of forts and palace buildings. So it was with eager anticipation, following a tasty omelette breakfast on the rooftop, that we headed off to explore. Declining the many offers from tuk tuk drivers we valiantly soldiered on foot through traffic, quickly coming to terms with the more random interpretation of any driving rules here. Eventually we found ourselves having along the Chandipol bazaar, and ultimately along Tripolia bazaar. A series of shops with mid west style verandas, and stock from a similar era. The road took us to the first of our planned stops - the Hawa Mahal. We didn't go inside as reports suggested that the best part of this building was the outside. John was impressed by the facade - a sort of 3D of small windows which the women apparently used to use to peep from to view goings-on on the street. Personally I wasn't quite sure what all the hype was ab out. Maybe I have seen too many photoshopped pictures of this, or was just jaded by the whole Jaipur experience. In contrast to the other places we have been Jaipur appears to be a very chaotic impersonal place, maybe due to its size. We were altogether more impressed by our experiences the following day when we ventured out to see the Amer fort (also aka Amber fort). Vipin our lovely hotel owner had negotiated a day rate for his driver to take us so we had no difficulty getting there. The area around Amer was stunning, and the fort certainly didn't disappoint. We had a good root around the various corridors and passages. Much more fun without a guide ! We were especially impressed with the hamman and latrine areas. Jacuzzi and toilet sections to those unaccustomed to fancy language. A fort definitely worth visiting if you ever venture to these parts, although I would be very tempted to stay in the nearby Amer, a much less commercial, and relaxing area. On the way back we were ravenous so Babloo stopped off at a very impressive looking building which turned out to be a restaurant, fully equipped with doorman in full Rajastani dress. Feeling decidedly underdressed, and clutching our somewhat grubby day bags we entered the restaurant. The tally for the food was twice our usual daily budget but it was a nice change. On the way out we decided to ask for a photo with the doorman, presuming that as part of the establishment a photo would be good advertising. Whilst John concentrated on framing and focussing his shot the doorman surreptitiously muttered about payment. When justified I have no problem paying people for services but I got the feeling that this was an opportunist under the table moment. Fortunately I have a deaf side, as my lovely children will confirm, which comes in handy on such occasions. Anyway we have now left the "not much evidence of pink" city and headed north to Bikaner, by deluxe bus. Yes, yes I know - this is a budget backpackers tour of India, but don't slip into a panic at the word deluxe. In India deluxe buses are ones with seats, and sometimes berths, plus wheels, including one for steering. Beyond that I'm no sure what constitutes the award of the term deluxe. Still, at £3.30 single fare for the seven hour journey to Bikaner we can't really complain.........now we're on the edge of the desert so I'm off to look for camels. :)