Do it yourself, or … don’t do it yourself - that is the question. I have been to Vietnam several times and have nearly always made up my own itinerary as I have valued the sense of “freedom” doing it this way gives. However, there are some disadvantages in going it
alone. For example you could be traveling from A to B and find out later that you passed a fantastic spot where not many people go to as it is “off the beaten track”. On the other hand, it is a fact that it is very enjoyable when everything is organized for you. Once you have been advised on a destination and know what you are going to get, you can relax from the moment you leave. The cardinal words here are “advised” and “know what you are going to get”.In the beginning I just walked into any agency and bought what they offered - only to find out that what I got was not what I had expected. I quickly learned that most agents just tell you anything to get you to hand over your money. In many travel shops you can see the meaningless photoshopped posters of modern Japanese bullet trains speeding towards Sapa and Chinese junks cleaving the waters of Halong Bay with photoshopped sails to make it look appealing and romantic. The next best thing is to book with your hotel - if they know you are coming back to them on your
return they are more than happy to assist. But again I have seen and heard some
interesting things here as well, like over-quoting and then offering a discount
because you are their guest.
Two years ago I happened to walk into "Getup&GoVietnam", only because at that time their office was located inside a great restaurant and I had noticed the TripAdvisor sign and figured that the chance that this agency would offer sub-standard trips would be less likely as usually travelers will voice their experience on TripAdvisor.

My most recent trip was to be the second time that Eric and his partner, Hue, were going to look after me. Thus far the service had been excellent. My previous trip in September last year, had been to Halong Bay. This time, after asking what “alternative trips” were available, I was offered a trip to a place not frequented by hordes of tourists (as yet). It included some hiking and riding a scooter to the final destination of the less visited, but stunning, Pu Luong National Park.

At around 8.00 am I was collected by a charming young lady who guided me to the bus to take me to the town of Mai Chau which is set in an idyllic valley full of green rice fields neatly laid out along curved lines and surrounded by forested hills. I had been there before during the time of the harvest when I observed the unforgettable sights of the Vietnamese farmers bobbing their heads up and down in the one meter layer of fog which covered the fields early in the morning.

After a relaxed 4 hours we reached Mai Chau where I was shown my bed in a White Thai stilt house with a bouncy bamboo floor. Downstairs, lunch was being served which gave me a chance to get acquainted with my fellow travelers. It turned out that we consisted of three small groups intertwined into one during the first day. There was to be a two and a three day trip, the latter was to be split in two again with me as the only person going to Pu Luong National Park. Eric had indeed been true to his word. I had been in a group of 18 people but ended up alone at Pu Luong. (Not that I would have minded if some people had come along with me as it turned out to be a great group.)
After lunch we started a tour of the valley using bicycles riding along good - and not so good - roads and the occasional track between the rice fields. While riding along, giggling young children waved at us and gave us the loveliest of smiles. Farmers in fields would raise their hands as if they were saying “welcome to our valley!” - and
perhaps that is what they were doing.

The place where I was staying was right against the volcanic rocky outcrops along the edge of the valley about 2 km away from the village. After dinner a dancing performance was given against the backdrop of one of the small cave-like cavities along the rock wall. For an hour White Thai girls and some boys performed their dancing to the sound of traditional music. Looking around I could not help but think what a great country this is. All the senses are stimulated by the views, sounds, smells and tastes of the country. The entertainment ended with us being invited to drink some rice wine out of a common jar through long bamboo straws. A great way to end the day.

(continued next entry)