The Portuguese ran Goa for 451 years right up to 1961 when Nehru sent in Indian troops to ensure that the state was incorporated within the nation of India. The Portuguese Governor at the time made a brave and wise decision not to fight or blow up buildings and infrastructure. It means that most of colonial Goa remains intact. After learning all about spices at a plantation, one of two major commodities along with horses which have been traded for centuries, we v...

The rail journey takes us through rural India in the state of Karnakata. At one level crossing a queue of a dozen bullock cards is lined up to await their turn to cross. There are two Indias - the timeless rural village poor India and the increasingly prosperous and modern town/city India. The train makes steady but slow progress and I keep thinking of the amazing experience of Hampi. We arrive after an eight hour journey at Margoan and then another 45 minutes by...

This morning, I walked down to the river and took the little ferry over to the other side where the temple elephant was being washed. Through narrow streets of shops selling souvenirs, yoga and meditation classes, and clothing, we headed out to the enormous ancient city of Hampi. Until it was destroyed in 1565 it had a population of about 0.5 million which would have made it one of the biggest cities in the world at the time. It covers an area of 26 square kilome...

The drive from Hospet to Hampi was just what I wanted to see. Through rural village India where families live in small communities with their livestock and the children are smartly dressed heading off to school on bicycles or auto rickshaws. Hampi is a remarkable place and It is like nowhere I have ever visited before. Various dynasties ruled the Vijayanagara empire from 1336 to 1565 when the area was overrun by the Muslims of South India. It is a landscape of mi...

It's a quiet day today in preparation for a long overnight train journey in three tier sleeper from here to Hospet. We have been chatting about Britain's legacy in India and focused on the positives! We came up with a list of five: democracy and political system; English language; railway network; education system; legal and judicial system. Oh, and what about cricket as a sixth? I used the ATM at the local bank this morning and was reassured on my security by th...