Apologies for the pic - am not in Easter Island - don't get excited - just haven't uploaded my photos for ages so must make do with what is here. So, in the words of Madonna: "Last night I dreamt of San Pedro". And then we went there. (Cheap shot, sorry). Ambled through Chilean border crossing where officials did not succeed in removing all our organic produce from Bolivia - I protected our limes, tres necessaire pour les G&T. The only place we stopped in Chile was the village of San Pedro - kind of in the corner between Bolivia and Argentina. Hit the town on the first night (freezing cold and we were, you guessed it, still camping) and set new record for sleeping-in in baking heat of morning tent the next day, then watched a lorra lorra football. Went to watch the sunset at yet another Valley of the Moon, but this one was pretty special - had to climb a huge sand dune (my little feet are useless here - might as well have shovels attached to my ankles) and saw the sun set amazingly quickly (as sson as one edge hits the horizon it apparently dips and falls immediately), casting pink and purple light over the textured lunaresque surface of the desert around us. Gorgeous. Realised that due to dodgy paperwork (our driver, Geoff, aka "Guff", is a wally) we would have to stay in San Pedro for another day, which was exceptionally good news given that had decided to go and see some geysers set in a volcanic crater at sunrise the next day. Oh yes, and had to get up at 3:30am to go and see them. Gah! Was absolutely worth it though...were fed chocolate biscuits and cheese sarnies for breakfast (reckon they have an odd idea of what gringos eat) and waddled around cocooned in my sleeping bag for warmth until the sun came up. Then visited a bubbling crater deep enough (and cool enough!) to swim in and decided to hell with it, I would strip off and jump in while everyone else (including lots of randoms) was paddling. Always was one to cause a scene. Returned bleary-eyed just in the nick of time to watch the most painful football match of my life as England made life difficult for themselves again. The afternoon was then lengthened by considerable gloom descending upon the campsite and then decided to tag along on the trip to a local observatory to gaze at the night sky. Chile is one of the best places in the world to view the sky and this guy (French but married to a Chilean) had massively strong telescopes and a very engaging manner - would have had a hell of an easier time with Physics at school if he'd been teaching me. We were treated to stunning views of the moon (really does look like a bit of cheese; photos to follow) and he showed us round the sky with his cool sky pointer thingie (like a laser pointer but it goes miles and miles up into the galaxy...wouldn't want to be a chinchilla caught in its beam, mind). He lined up red, blue and yellow stars for us to see, and stars at various stages of life (GCSE came flooding back to me)...was v. educational but also just a lovely experience, gazing away at the most sparkly sky, then scurrying in for hot chocolate. Bliss. But by then had been up for 21 hours so was a leetle snoozy... ...and that was just about all there was of Chile, so read on for Argentina!