A woman's prerogative to change her mind. Turkish Fjords 1st July 2014

I am allowed to change my mind. From being a bit "iffy" and finding some things difficult, we have decided we like it here. There are two Turkeys and we have been on the beautiful side. We have gone up and down the Hisaronu and Yesilova Gulfs. They are deeply indented and covered in pine. Little boats wind their ways through, some selling fish, bread, honey or linens to those at anchor.

Orhaniye had bright red cliffs and a sand spit to catch unwary power boaters. We anchored near and watched people "walking on water" and the odd boat grounding. The inlets are fjord-like and once inside you can be completely sheltered. We went on a restaurant jetty in Sogut south of Bozburun (burun means nose or cape) run by a lovely chap called Salih with a Dutch wife Lynn. We had a beautifully cooked meal of mixed mezes to start, followed by stuffed squid in a spicy sauce.

It has been wiltingly hot, so it has been good to be able to thread in and out of these places, cooking outside on the BBQ and swimming when it all becomes too much. That's the good Turkey and the upside.

We are now re-entering tourist land and a surfeit of gulets. Huge lumbering boats, very attractive from a distance, but noisy and busy and cheek by jowl. They take no prisoners and beware the small yacht that has the temerity to take up a bit of space! Also the less attractive side of the "commercially aware" local - how to relieve you of your money is an art form. We are approaching Marmaris now - yachting mecca of Turkey. It's got to be done I suppose. We were here about 22 years ago and it has grown somewhat! But it apparently has some fabulous markets and we have a few things that need doing here, so will just bear the heat and the crowds, before heading back out into remoter territory and a few more antiquities. Still heading south and east.

And we have booked a slot for the boat in August and a flight home so can relax now and continue the journey….