Saturday 10th April
Border Crossings & Long Journeys!

Today was yet another early start and our first border crossing. We managed to grab breakfast of toast and pineapple from our hostel before boarding our shuttle at 8am en route for Guatemala. The early start meant that most of us used the initial journey time to continue catching up on sleep or to just relax and stare out of the window and admire the beautiful views. We had been warned that border crossings in Central America could be notoriously unpredictable with lengthy delays and numerous baggage checks but I am pleased to report that my first experience could not have gone smoother and I even got a smile at passport control which many of you will know is an unusual occurrence wherever you are in the world! So having successfully crossed into Guatemala we changed buses and continued on our journey. The journey was due to last another 5 hours until we reached destination in Panajachel. Unfortunately our journey was even longer than the initial expected 5 hours from the border as we encountered a crash by the mountain side close to Panajachel. This meant that we arrived later than expected and couldn’t make our intended trip across Lake Atitlan to San Pedro as planned so instead decided to spend the night in Panajachel. Having got ourselves sorted with a hostel to stay at, we then went out for food, and enjoyed some local music and then headed back to our hostel.

Sunday 11th April
Lakeside Views and Volcano Climbing

We awoke early and sorted out or plans for the rest of the day. We took a boat across the lake from Panajachel to San Pedro which was a real treat. With stunning scenery and the San Pedro Volcano towering above us it was a fantastic ride as we stopped at various lake side villages before our arrival in San Pedro. As we were all hungry we decided to grab breakfast and as I tucked into my cereal and nachos, I know, not the usual breakfast but it tasted pretty good, and our table looked out across the beautiful lake before me I could see why it was so easy for travelers to take a real liking to the place. With a hearty breakfast inside us and our hostel for the next few days arranged we decided to hike up San Pedro Volcano. With our guide Juan leading the way we set off on our trail. Juan is a member of the local Mayan community and only learnt Spanish at the age of 16 when he had the alphabet first written down for him on a piece of paper and he began to learn the letter sounds. He still struggles to write but with his understanding of the Spanish language he was able to tell us many an interesting story on our hike. Leaving at 1pm we had the hottest part of the day to contend with as we set off on our steep trek up the volcano. Along the way there were some stunning view points out across the lake and many a picture was taken. Unfortunately we were dealt some bad news when Juan informed us that due to our late departure (apparently they normally set off at 6-8am) we wouldn’t be able to get right to the top of the volcano. Thankfully San Pedro is dormant and therefore doesn’t offer the opportunity to see molten lava so albeit disappointed we made our way back down the mountainside.
Returning to the lake all hot n bothered we decided that what better way to cool off than by taking a dip in the lake so having quickly replaced the walking boots and hiking gear with flip flops and swim shorts we went down to the lake just as the sun was setting. Having enjoyed our relaxing dip in the lake we showered and then headed out for something to eat, finding ourselves a great little sports bar offering some really nice food especially for vegetarians! As well as this it had pool and ping pong tables so my competitive side may well have come out as we got set on a few games.
Moving on from the sports bar we tried a few more bars which served some pretty excellent smoothies and fruit drinks (as I don’t drink alcohol) where we continued to meet people from all over the world who had arrived in San Pedro as part of their travels, there was certainly a very international feel here! This took us late into the night and allowed us to get a great view of the stars from the lakeside before heading back to our hostel.

Monday 12th April
Great Food & Great Surprises!

After a late night the previous night, I awoke to a few more tired looking faces so it was a
fairly slow start to the day! After grabbing breakfast we took a boat across the river to San Marco, another of the lakeside villages! Here we found a really chilled out little village, with a hippy feel, and quite a large number of English people who had fallen in love with the place and since emigrated to the shores of Lake Atitlan! After having spent the rest of the morning and early afternoon doing some cliff jumping into the lake we headed for a late lunch at the restaurant of a former Londoner before heading back across the lake to San Pedro.
The afternoon was then spent in a fairly relaxed fashion, getting ourselves organised! This meant doing a laundry trip, getting bags repacked and trying to get a little more up to date with things on the net! I´m sure many of you are aware that I am already getting behind on my blog but rest assured it is coming, and will hopefully be worth the wait! So as not to miss out on anything I have been keeping a basic diary as I go along so that I can remember all the information at the time! When writing my diary I always try to find a beautiful spot, sit and listen to my IPod and reflect back on all the exciting things I have experienced so far! The latest spot was sat on the jetty, feet dangling in the water as I watched the sunset over Lake Atitlan! It can be a hard life I know!
So after my organised afternoon we headed out to a restaurant we had had recommended to us earlier that day, and its safe to say we weren’t disappointed. Served by a young male waiter from England, who had planned to be in San Pedro for just a couple of weeks but had now been there for nearly a year (I was beginning to realise that this quaint little lakeside town had a similar effect on a lot of people) we found out a little more about the restaurant and its owner! It turns out the owner used to work for Richard Transonic before emigrating to Guatemala over 10 years ago. Trained by Marco Pierre White, he had then passed on his skills to some local chefs who he had trained up and the proof was in the food which was absolutely delicious! Andy and I headed back to the Sports Bar to continue our previous nights duel on the Ping Pong table. It did not look as things were going my way as all our games were pretty close but we finished the night with me being 1-6 down to Andy at Ping Pong!

Tuesday 13th April
Slow Travelling!

Unfortunately we had another slow start after we had to wait to sort out a few issues with Frontier our travel organisation, before then heading on to Antigua, the next stop on our tour! The 6 hour journey was fairly uneventful. On arrival in Antigua we spent a bit of time exploring the town, before heading out for pizza at a local Italian restaurant! With an early start the next day we decided it was a good idea to recharge our batteries and get an early night! So all in all a rather uneventful day but this can often be the case when having to cover such vast distances! But at least with such a short entry I have managed to catch up another day on my blog! More exciting stories to come soon!

Wednesday 14th April
Bread Toasted on a Volcano! Mmmmmm!

I was definitely happy to have decided on an early night the previous night as I rolled out of bed at 5am ready to catch our 6am shuttle for our trip to the Pacaya Volcano. As we all piled into the minibus, still a little sleep eyed we met the rest of the group who included an Australian couple, a British guy and a Canadian and within this group. We arrived at the base of the volcano at around 7am and began our ascent up to the top led by our guide Jose. We, as a group then became known as the ´Pumas´ and the ascent soon passed by as we busily chatted away and shared stories on our trek up. During our ascent we passed solidified magma piles from previous eruptions and were able to take in some great scenery. It was at this point that we were informed that the volcano had previously erupted 4 years ago and is still classed as an active volcano. Unfortunately we weren´t able to go all the way to the top as the sulphur clouds are far too dangerous but we reached our highest point to find that we could look down into a very small crater and see molten magma for ourselves. It was strange to see it up so close, bubbling away and you couldn´t wait around for long without feeling the full affects of its heat. Even standing on the rocks you could feel the heat coming up from underneath you and the molten magma below. Even to the extent that when I took a picture of the magma through one of the vents, hot air escaped and singed all the hairs on my hand holding the camera! With all this heat around we decided it was about time we toasted the food that we had brought up. The group had all brought marshmallows but as I am a vegetarian, I could not have, so instead, I toasted some bread which I must say tasted all the better for being toasted on a volcano! We also ate our lunch whilst taking in the surrounding views which stretched for miles around. With our appetites satisfied we began our trek back down the mountain before hopping back into the minibus and returning to Antigua. On our return to Antigua we headed straight for McDonalds! Not for more food as you may think, but we had been told by the Australian couple that it was well worth a visit so off we went full of curiosity. To our surprise, instead of the usual bright lights and modern interior that we are accustomed to seeing from the abundance of McDonalds restaurants that you normally can´t get away from, we found a McDonalds complete with walled garden, waterfalls and other such beauties. The rest of the day was spent sorting out a few issues that had arisen before we cooked up dinner and then headed to an Irish Bar which again made some pretty tasty smoothies! Wish they served these at the places back home!

Thursday 15th April
Colonial Towns & Uncomfortable Travel

Today experienced another slow start as there was some itinerary and group issues that needed sorting out. Travelling as part of an organised tour group certainly has its benefits. Sharing your experiences with another group of people, having an organised itinerary, a guide who can speak the local language and no need to worry about accommodation and transport arrangements etc. However I was quickly learning that independent travel also had its advantages and realised I would probably be better suited to it but once we had sorted out the few minor issues I decided to continue making the most of the opportunity I had infront of me. With our transport booked for 6pm I spent the rest of the day exploring Antigua, a bustling colonial town with plenty of character. We spent the afternoon exploring its markets, churches and ruins and finding out a little more about the history of a town that used to be at the centre of all that was important in Central America. We then caught our shuttle to Guatemala City at 6pm. As is normal when travelling by bus in Central America, your bags can often end up on top, strapped on with rope and this time was no exception. However for the whole of the 2 hour long journey to Guatemala City I could watch my bag hang over the side of the minibus through the window and despite having queried its safety with the driver he assured me it was fine and my bag would get there in one piece. Thankfully the driver has more experience in these matters and did prove to be correct. On arrival in Guatemala City we caught a connecting bus for our 10 hr overnight journey up to Flores. Unfortunately this wasn’t the most comfortable experience and sleep was difficult to find, especially when you have a driver who decides to start playing loud music at odd hours.

Friday 16th April
Flores!

After the overnight bus journey the previous night we arrived in Flores early at around 9am. Flores is a small town built on a tiny island situated in the middle of a lake not far from Santa Elena. I decided on arrival to spend a bit of time exploring the island so spent the next hour or so wandering around and seeing what the island had to offer. I soon came to realise that Flores is a relatively quiet little town, mainly used by travellers due to its proximity to the ruins in Tikal. I therefore decided to catch up on the sleep I had missed the previous night so headed back to our hostel and resurfaced sometime later that afternoon. Feeling a little more refreshed I showered, ate and then headed down to the lakeside. With the sun shining brightly the lakeside jettys were full of locals and travellers alike who were making the most of the clear waters in order to take a cooling dip. So here we enjoyed swimming in the lake and competing with the locals for crazy jumps off the jetty. So after going back to our hostel, grabbing a quick bit of time on the internet and grabbing some food, we headed over to the recommended hostel 'Hostel Los Amigos'. When we arrived we could see why as it was a place with real character and a perfect backpackers stay. I was beginning to realise that a lot of the fun of travelling was as much about the places you get to visit and the cultures you get to experience, as it was the people you get to meet on the way!

Saturday 17th April
Jungle Ruins!

After a relative lie in (which I was very grateful of after the late night the previous evening) we set off for Tikal at around 10am. Having arranged our transportation to the ruins the day before we had expected our own minibus and driver to take us on the two hour journey into the jungle. But as is often the case in Central America this supposedly private ride became what is locally known as a ‘collectivo’, therefore meaning the driver began picking up extra passengers in order to make some extra cash from his journey. We were told that we could remain as a private ride if we wanted to pay extra (that being extra on the agreed price from the day before) but we decided against it and were soon joined by various locals we picked up by the roadside. On arrival to Tikal we sorted out our camping arrangements for that evening before entering into the park itself. Here we came across another common feature of tourism in Central America, the fact that foreign tourists pay a marked increase in price compared to the locals. In this case we paid 150 quetzalas (roughly around £10) compared to the price that a local Guatemalan would pay which was 25 quetzalas. If this was to take place back home you could imagine the uproar but here in Central America it is common place.
So having entered the park we began to explore what Tikal had to offer. Tikal is very different from a lot of the other ancient ruins found in Central America as it is located deep in the jungle. It includes a vast empire with a variety of different buildings, but the most striking features are definitely the steep-sided temples which rise 60m+ above the jungle canopies. Climbing to the top of these you can see for miles around, with stunning views of the surrounding jungle and neighbouring temples. Then after climbing back down you could wander through the jungle, witnessing the abundance of wildlife and the rest of what made this one of the great ancient Mayan Cities. The Mayans had first settled in the area around 700 B.C. and within two hundred years had begun to build stone ceremonial structures that still stand today. We spent a good 5 hours exploring the ancient ruins, taking lots and lots of photos. We stopped for lunch at the top of the highest temple and enjoyed the views as we tucked into our sandwiches. Thoroughly worn out and tired after a lot of walking around in what was stifling heat we returned to the campsite where we would be spending the night.
Unfortunately by now darkness was settling in which meant that we were cooking our dinner by torchlight which proved to be very interesting. But soon enough we were tucking into our pasta whilst playing various card games before heading off to the bed with the sound of the jungle right outside our tents. Unfortunately our tent was a little on the small size for 3 guys so I volunteered to sleep outside under the cover with just a mosquito net around me and my sleeping bag. This was an interesting experience getting used to the hard floor but seeing the stars as you are drifting off to sleep was amazing.

Sunday 18th April
Interesting Nights Sleep!

Now many of you may have heard that jungles can be very noisy places and I can confirm that it is definitely not just a rumour. Having woken up early, as soon as the sun was up in fact (unfortunately it was a cloudy morning so I could not see the Sun rising), I realised I hadn’t managed much sleep. The sounds of howler monkeys, buzzing insects and numerous different birds certainly takes some getting used to and I hadn’t managed to get much sleep. However, when I awoke and got up out of my sleeping bag I realised that I was not alone in my sleeping bag that night....I found a Scorpion inside my sleeping bag right underneath where I had been sleeping! I could only have gotten in after I was asleep and luckily it had obviously just enjoyed the extra warmth and hadn’t felt like making its presence known in a more deadly fashion! I have to say that It was amazing that I did not get stung as I was moving a considerable amount that night in my sleeping bag trying to get comfortable!
We had a fairly relaxed morning, witnessing more wildlife, including various lizards and rodents, many of which came very close to our tents.
We then caught our minibus back to Flores where we showered, fed and then spent the rest of the day relaxing. We spent a bit more time at the lake where we met more fellow travellers and then I caught up on writing my diary as the sun set over the lake. As night set in, I spent some time on the internet before grabbing an early night after my lack of sleep the night before. I was now 2 weeks into this part of my trip and was beginning to realise what a cool lifestyle that travelling was, to get used to. I was finding it was giving me the bug even more. Honduras tomorrow!
Monday 19th April
Woke up early to get everything packed and grab some breakfast before taking our first ‘tuc-tuc’ ride over to the bus terminal. Tuc-Tucs are small motorised taxis that are common place in this part of the world and will take you on your short trips for next to nothing. We got to the bus terminal and got onto our bus, although ended up having to wait for half an hour longer than expected for it to leave but by now we were getting used to transport delays and thought nothing of it. Today we had a long, long journey as we were heading for border with Honduras. Unfortunately the delays continued, with lots of frequent stops for what seemed like running repairs/refuelling as well as picking up so many extra fares. Bus systems seem to be very different here with there no distinct stops, people picked up at the side of the road and an abundance of traders who are allowed on at regular intervals to sell their wares.
Unfortunately our numerous frequent delays were topped by one major delay that left us stationary for around 2 hours due to an overturned truck but fortunately no one was seriously hurt. As a result of all the delays we arrived in Chiquimula after dark and too late to make the short trip for the border crossing. We soon realised that Chiquimula perhaps wasn’t the best of places to be in after dark so quickly booked into our hotel, grabbed some food and prepared ourselves for an early border crossing the next day.
So a fairly uneventful day, but we did come across one bit of interesting news during our long bus journey. Our guide, Mike, noticed a newspaper article being read by one of the local passengers and having asked if he could read further, he shared the story with the rest of us. We were then informed that the volcano we had climbed only four days previously, Pacaya, had erupted whilst we were in Tikal. It hadn’t erupted for over 4 years, but just 3 days after we had been there it had blown its top. Ironically when we had been there we had been a little disappointed that we hadn’t seen live lava flows like we had heard from other travellers were sometimes a possibility. But after hearing the news we counted ourselves very lucky as the eruption resulted in 12 injuries and 2 fatalities.