Wildlife & Conservation Project - The Osa Peninsula

Monday 17th May - Sunday 13th June

I spent four weeks on a wildlife & conservation project and instead of providing you with a day by day account of what I did, it would be much easier to provide an overview of the project and the kind of things we got up to. So here goes.....

So where was I?

We were based on the Osa Peninsula which is located in the south-western region of Costa Rica and is flanked by the Golfo Dulce to the East and the Pacific Ocean to the West. Our site was located close to the southern tip of the peninsula close to the Pacific coast between Matapaolo and Carate. From our overnight stay in Puerto Jiminez (the nearest proper town) we took an 1hour 30min collectivo ride to our drop off point. From here we left the roadside via a small trail heading into the forest and had around a 1km walk along the trail before we found ourselves at our project site. The Osa Peninsula is famed for its incredible range of biodiversity and is home to Corcovado National Park. Our project site was very basic and was situated on top of a small hill in the middle of dense forest along the Terciopelo Trail. From the project site it is a 2 minute walk down the hill to the beautiful beach that stretches along the Pacific Coast. It is also a 20-30 minute walk to the local school (which has a class of 6 ranging from ages 6-11) and the Osa Biodiversity Centre (OBC) which is a research centre ran by the Friends of the Osa. Friends of the Osa are a conservation organisation who we would be working very closely with over the length of the project and they have a good relationship with Frontier. So here we were in our remote location that would become home for the next 4 weeks.

So what were we doing?

Our project involved a whole selection of wildlife research studies and conservation projects that I will briefly describe to give you an insight into what was keeping us busy during our time there.

Otter Surveys - a local mining company is wanting to mine the gravel from the River Piro which runs close by the OBC and local school. Obviously this would not be a good move for the local area as mining and deforestation are always the big dangers to beautiful rainforest regions such as here in the Osa. Therefore one of the projects we were part of was to try and prove the existence of otters in the area as otters are good indicators of pristine waters and this in itself could be used as a reason to protect the area from mining. Otter surveys would consist of walks down the river searching predominantly for otter scats (droppings) or otter prints by the riverside. These would then be GPS registered and compiled together to form proof of the otter existence in the area. We did manage to see plenty of otter scats and even the odd otter print but on one occasion we even got to see an otter in the flesh (albeit only for a few seconds) which was fantastic to see.

Frog Transects - along various sites throughout the trail network in the local area transects would be set up in order to research the local frogs populations. Transects would measure 2mx50m and a transect survey would involve a group of 2-3 people moving along the 50m transect scattering the leaves and trying to find any frogs/lizards in that area. We would then attempt to catch them (easier said than done), and put them into bags so that they could be taken back to the OBC. Here they would be identified before being released back into their habitats. These would be completed early in the morning, or late at night (which can make catching even more difficult) and could be a lot of fun.

Swamp Surveys - similar to the Frog Transects the swamp surveys involved going down to a nearby swamp region at night to assess local frog and amphibian population. At the swamp we would see a whole array of creatures including frogs, lizards, snakes and spiders. The swamp is also home to the Caiman which can often be seen at night just by its red eyes across the swamp but on one trip we did see it as close as 5m away.

Primate Surveys - would involve walking some of the local trails and keeping our eye out for any passing monkeys. Once we had seen a monkey we would then identify its type, how many of them there were (as they tend to travel in groups), their general behaviour, their direction of movement etc. Monkey's are very entertaining creatures and watching them clamber through the canopies swinging from tree to tree would be a lot of fun.

Beach Profiling - this would involve taking 3 different sections along the beach and profiling its shape. The reason for doing this would be to see how its profile changed over time and see if there was any link with global warming etc. This was interesting to see as even during my short time there the course of the River Piro which enters the sea very close to our camp changed the shape of the beach dramatically.

Beach Clean-Up - on our penultimate weekend in the Osa we joined over 200 volunteers in a big beach clean up stretching over 20km down the pacific coast. The reason for this was not only to tidy the place up a little but also to prepare the beach for the upcoming turtle season which generally starts around July. Volunteers included Ticos (local Costa Ricans), numerous Americans who are now settled and working in the area and volunteers on projects such as ourselves. The clean-up basically involved combing the beach and picking up any rubbish and putting it into big bags which were then collected by a big buffalo drawn cart. It was interesting to see the types of things that get washed up on the beach and things I found ranged from inhalers to beer cans and I found enough flip flops to open a shoe shop (although funnily enough no matching pairs). After the beach clean up all volunteers headed to Carate where a huge BBQ, which included a vegetarian option of some of the best rice and beans I have tasted in Costa Rica and lots of delicious food was put on for all the volunteers along with music and it was a great opportunity to meet some of the local residents.

Plant Nursery - the area around the OBC has been deforested and they have a long term plan to restore the area and the plant nursery is the first stage of that. The process involves taking plants from the riverside, collecting them together and then putting them into grow bags. Taking the plants from the riverside doesn't do any damage to the environment as with the upcoming rainy season the river levels would rise and the plants would die anyway. The idea instead is that the plants are put into grow bags and then will eventually be replanted into the area surrounding the OBC buildings.

Forest Restoration - this project involved a 1h30min trek from our base site to another site called Cerro Osa where we stay overnight before returning the next day. Cerro Osa is now the home of the Friends of the Osa's Managing Director but used to be a tree plantation. Therefore large areas were deforested and then used for tree plantations. The Osa region has over 700 species of tree and is therefore very diverse but up at Cerro Osa this level of diversity has been lost with the plantation. The restoration project aims to restore these levels of biodiversity by taking a wide range of species and replanting them in the area. A year ago the staff up at Cerro Osa began their own plant nursery and these plants were now ready to be planted. This would be pretty hard manual work but it was good fun working with the local workers who would put us to shame with their industry.

So what was camp life like?

Camp life was very basic, we didn't have any electricity or even running water. But I must say this was one of the best parts about my experience, the real feeling of going back to basics. Volunteers would sleep in either hammocks or tents under large wooden structures covered by tarpaulin to protect everything from the rain. I myself had a roll mat to sleep on and I have to say it provided zero cushioning that lead to 4 weeks of sleeping in one uncomfortable position, waking up and then shifting to another uncomfortable position multiple times each night. This really made me appreciate my mattress back at home, but after the first 3 weeks, I would not say I got used to it, but it was not as hard. Additionally there was an eating and cooking area with gas stove and large table. With no running water we had to get our drinking and cooking water from a natural water source that was a 5 minute walk away. So armed with two 10 litre containers we would set off down the hill and return later with our supplies. This became an interesting trip when the rains came and the hill became much slippier. Another trip down the hill in a slightly different direction would take us to our washing area aka the beach. The River Piro would meet the sea close to our site and provided the ideal washing site. Taking down a bucket along with shampoo and soap this would be our daily washing site. Trips to the toilet were also an interesting novelty to begin with as our toilet was what we call a 'long drop'. Basically a large 6ft pit dug into the ground.
Each day there would be two people designated to 'camp duty'. Their responsibilities included collecting water from the well, tidying up the camp area, cooking the meals and washing up after meals. I am pleased to report that we ate well, with there usually being the option to go back for more. Meals were mainly based around rice, beans, spaghetti and potatoes but we had plenty of vegetables to add. Meals concocted included curries, pasta dishes, rice & bean burgers, fried potatoes, burritos etc. We would also have a selection of fruit including bananas, guacemole, avocado, pineapple and coconut. Breakfast consisted of porridge which I must say I had perfected by the end of my time there. Treats included popcorn and banana cake so all in all its safe to say that I ate very well during my time there. Also once a week we would be fed at the OBC for dinner which always proved to be a delicious meal and the local bar would often put on a free meal for us on a Saturday night by way to entice us in.
It would be rude not to mention the weather and we had a real mixed bag. After a first few days of beautiful sunshine we then went for 8 straight days with only greyish skies and plenty of rain. Overall we had some absolutely stunning days with hot temperatures (in the few weeks before we arrived they had recorded 45 degress celcius) and clear blue skies and other days where it would rain nearly the whole day. In a way we were lucky as we were only there for the beginning of the rainy season and it sounds like it gets much worse.

And what would we do with our spare time?

So when we weren't busy with our surveys or with our designated camp duty we had to find other things to keep busy. Most of the time this would involve relaxing at camp and playing card games, learning some basic Spanish or reading books (I went through a good number of books during my 4 weeks). Other than this spare time would be a good time to both wash yourself but also to wash your clothes down at the river. In addition it would be a good time to get some exercise in and I would often go for a run along the beach which certainly helped me to start enjoying my running again. As well as this we would occasionally play football on the pitch at the local school with some of the locals that we had met or play volleyball on the beach. As well as this we would make a few trips to the local bar (which was about a 1 hour walk away) and they would put on free food for us on a Saturday night. Camp improvements were also being continuously made and this was another way to make the most of your spare time. This might involve helping to make the tent area more rain proof or helping to dig trenches across the nearby road so that pipes could be laid in order to help provide the camp with running water in time for the rainy season. As well as general spare time we also had one day off a week which provided an opportunity to get out of camp and explore the local area. Some volunteers would head back to Puerto Jiminez but I decided to explore the local area by foot. So during my days off I took one walk along the beach to a nearby waterfall (which also provided me with my best wash of the 4 weeks), on another occasion I headed to a natural cove which had been produced in the rocks along the beach. Unfortunately at this cove, I left my Machael Jackson glove to dry on a rock and forgot to pick it up when we left. By the time I realised, aroiund 25mins into the walk back, I ran back to the cove and saw that the tide had come up so the waves were crashing around the rocks where I had left the glove. I looked in vain for the MJ glove, but it had been taken out to sea.....and as the waves were rising, I realised that I had to get out of the cove before I got trapped in. Even a vulture landed on the rocks above me watching to see what I was doing, which I have to say was a bit wierd... So after almost 9months of travelling with me, the Michael Jackson glove was taken by the sea.....

For my final day off I went horseriding through the jungle and along the beach with some of the volunteers and Byron who was one of the locals whom we got to know well.

And who did I meet?

At our project site we had various volunteers and staff members who ranged from the British and the Americans, to French, Irish and an Estonian. We were lucky to have a really good mix of people, each with their own story to tell and it made for a good atmosphere in camp. As well as the Frontier staff and volunteers we also worked closely with Friends of the Osa Staff who included both Americans and local staff who knew the area really well and were experts on the local wildlife. As well as this we met local people through our trips to the bar and our project work. On occasions we would invite them to eat with us at camp which was always nice and you could learn a lot from talking to them.

And what else did I see?

As already mentioned the Osa Peninsula is one of the worlds most biodiverse spots and we were lucky enough to see a whole array of different wildlife. Apologies for some of the terminology if incorrect as I must say I am still no wildlife expert:

Birds - the variety of bird life in the Osa is amazing and we would see all sorts of different types and species including birds of prey such as the turkey vulture, the roadside hawk, mangrove hawk and various falcons and eagles. As well as the different birds of prey we also saw owls, toucans, macaws, manakins, Ibis, kingfishers, woodpeckers and my favourite the pelicans as they would fly in lines and almost ride the waves along the beach.

Mammals - I must start with the Monkeys as they were one of my favourite creatures of the jungle and we were lucky enough to see four different types during our stay, the spider monkey, squirrel monkey, howler monkey (named so because of the loud noises that they produce) and the white-faced capuchin (like marcelle from Friends). Monkeys would provide all sorts of entertainment as they made their way through the canopies and would often pass straight through the trees around our camp which was great to see. As well as monkeys I also saw a tamandua and squirrels.

Amphibians & Reptiles - well I certainly saw my fair share of frogs, snakes and lizards I must say. Frog species included the red-eyed tree frog, gladiator frog, jungle frog, and coolest of all the glass frog (named so because it is almost transparent and you can see its internal organs). Lizards and Basilisks were also commonplace and I was even lucky enough to see some really cool Iguanas, both in the water and out. My favourite lizard was the Jesus Christ Lizard as it would named so because of its ability to run on water. We also saw a lizard that was almost chameleon like in its abilities to change its skin colour to match its surroundings. Snakes were probably the most dangerous creature for us with a number of deadly species in our region. I was witness to numerous sightings of the most dangerous snake in Central America, the Fer de Lance snake. As well as this I saw numerous tree snakes, the cat-eyed snake, I was lucky enough to handle a common blunt headed snake and saw a juvenile coral snake.

The Creepy Crawlies - big spiders and scorpions were often found around camp and I was one of a select few that got stung by a scorpion on my elbow, which left it feeling a little numb but thankfully nothing worse. I even saw a few tarantulas which were cool and numerous moths and butterflies.

The added extras - down by the beach there were numerous different crab species including the hermit crab and I mustn't forget to mention what seemed like the most abundant species in the jungle, the mosquito.

I discovered there is a therapeutic nature of these forests. Sitting alone on a mossy bole of some fallen giant and steeping quietly in the ambience of the ancient tropical forest. Rejuvenation is to be had by doing nothing more than listening to the lonesome whistle of a tinamou, hearing the bark of spider monkeys squabbling in a fruiting tree, becoming enveloped by the buzz and whir of teeming millions of small limbs and wings. Estrangement from the natural world is best overcome by solitude, for being alone in these noble forests is less a kind of social separation and more a form of deep immersion in the fullest richness and diversity of life.

I must say that I thoroughly enjoyed my four weeks and it was a fantastic experience to go back to basics and get to live so close to such an abundance of wildlife. I couldn't recommend this part of the world more and for any avid wildlife enthusiast it would be a must.

I would like to thank all of the volunteers and staff Paul, Naseem, Izzie, Mary, Paul , Liz, Miiki, Alisha, Alyssa, Mark, Mike, Celine, Helen, Gen, Claire, Eown and especially Andy Dyke for their contribution to the blog for both the Central America Ethical Trail and the Wildlife & Conservation Project at the Osa Peninsula as well as the reference material from the book "OSA Where the Rainforest Meets the Sea" by Toft & Trond Larson.

So that brings me to the end of my volunteering over these past 9 months. It has been a truly amazing experience and I can't believe that it is over, it has flown by! I have had the opportunity to meet some pretty amazing people and seen some incredible things!

I would like to give a massive thanks to my family and friends and everyone that I have met along the way for making my 9 month volunteer adventure so special and to Bhagawan Sri Sathya Sai Baba for giving me this increadible opportunity and for using me as His instrument on this incredible journey.

I now have 2 weeks in LA and Colorado where my sister will be flying out and meeting me and after that, I come home to the UK…… Crazy or what!!

Adios Amigos!