Plitvic Lakes National Park was on the original list of sites added to the UNESCO World Heritage register in 1979. It is easily the top tourist destination in Croatia, drawing more than a million people a year to the series of beautiful lakes, interconnected with incredible karst formations and cascades. I'd never heard of it until Deb insisted we spend a few days hiking here. What a find.

If I had this trip to plan over again, I just might base it around the world's best hiking destinations. We've touched on a few of these on our trip and have thoroughly enjoyed each one. Walking is a great family activity. We have found it one on the best ways to enjoy each other's company this year. In addition to the obvious physical benefits, we seem to get into a zone when we're hiking. Conversation is fun and easy, complaining is relatively low, treats are well deserved and guilt free and the scenery is usually amazing. I've come to the conclusion that you don't really get to appreciate the soul of a place until you've spent time in its most cherished wilderness places.

Plitvic is one of those places. Some of the first violent struggles for independence and turf in the wars of the former Yugoslavia occurred here. Long before then, it was traded back and forth between the Romans, Ottomans and Hapsburgs. Large areas of the park were closed when we arrived due to flooding brought on by the recent rains. We were very disappointed that we couldn't hike the 12 km trail that winds its way around the lakes and past the many waterfalls and karsts. Nonetheless, we got the opportunity to get down into some of its most beautiful sections and the masses of water moving through just added to the incredible natural beauty of the place. On our last day, we hiked an often overlooked forest trail that gave us a great panoramic view of the lakes and surrounding countryside. The songbirds, shady Beech trees and clean, fresh air was just what the doctor ordered after our hectic retreat from Dubrovnik. The recurring scent of fresh flowers, warming earth and wild onions etched itself in our memories for evermore. It also reminded us of what we love most about our own country.

We have a great little apartment just outside the park boundaries. Deb and I have our own bedroom for once which, in the early evening, is soaked in sunshine. Last night, after the kids were finally asleep, we locked the bedroom door, slid into bed, turned out the lights and did something naughty. Something we haven't done in a very long time. We opened a bag of cookies and watched a late night movie on the tv! It was heavenly. I think it's the first time we have turned on a television set, other than during the olympics, since we left home. We haven't missed it in the slightest. But it was a good treat nonetheless!

Right now we are in Split, Croatia's second biggest city. We couldn't understand why the otherwise quaint and quiet seaside town was teeming with people when we arrived today. It's Split Days - the annual celebration of the City's founding. It's also the night before Shannon's long anticipated birthday. As I lie here in bed wishing her to sleep so we can begin "the preparations," a rock band has begun to belt out its opening tune. The base guitar and drum are almost as thunderous as the fifteen minutes of artillery-like fireworks that proceeded them. So much for the songbirds and wild onions! Hey, I think I recognize this tune! Happy Birthday Shanny!