After breakfast, James drove me to the Citadelle la Ferriere, an hours drive from Cap-Haitien. The imposing fortress is Haiti's only UNSECO world heritage site. On the steep road up from the base of the mountain we picked up a group of Uruguayan UN peace keeps. As we climbed the hill, more and more folks hopped up on to the back of our pickup truck until it was full of UN Chileans, UN Uruguayans and a few Haitians. The last leg of the trip could only be done by donkey or on foot. It is highly recommended to hire a guide just to keep the throngs of vendors, guides and donkey wranglers from pestering you. The paved path was steep but doable in about 45 minutes, that is unless you were an opposing army, then it would be impossible (although never attempted). At the top of the Citadel I was rewarded with sweeping views from 360 degrees and then back to Cap-Haitien for an authentic creole lunch and beers at the oceanfront cafe, Lakay. I ate one skinny, but delicious chicken, in a creole sauce with cashews.