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I had a great day today! Lima is full of the friendliest people. It turns out there is a post office right next door to the Hostel El Patio. I was a tad concerned at first that I wouldn't be able to post a package as its one of those shops that sells all sorts of things but also happens to be a post office. The lovely old guy working there put my mind at ease though, and between my broken Spanish and his broken English I managed to get a box and send it home... I think :). A note for those wanting to send parcels from Peru: you need a copy of your passport not the actual passport. Luckily there was a copy place across the road AND he didn't baulk too much when I had to pay him with a 50 note for 40c worth of copies.
Load lightened I set off to explore Miraflores. In the main square I saw what looked like a hop on hop off bus but turned out to just do set yours. The next tour I was interested in didn't leave for a few hours so I wandered around, eventually found an ATM that accepted my card, then headed to Cafe Haiti for brunch (I'd slept through breakfast at the hostal). Served by a very helpful lovely older waiter, I had a delicious Spanish omelette while watching the people pass by. Very pleasant.
After brunch I went back and booked my tour, then stopped in at what I'm calling the cat church. No they don't worship cats, but for some reason there are loads of strays all around (and on) this church. The church itself is a pretty regular Catholic church with beautiful stained glass windows, and a gorgeous statue of Mary over the alter. It was quite peaceful and cool inside and I enjoyed just sitting and being thankful that I am able to visit such wonderful places.
Another example of the cosmopolitan nature of Lima, when after getting somewhat geographically challenged going back to the hostal, I ended up in Atlantic City :). Thanks to the hostal map I set myself straight though and made it back to swap cameras and grab sunscreen.
The tour in the afternoon was quite nice. We were taken around Miraflores and Centro to see the important buildings, then did a tour of the Larco Museum. This is a private museum that houses a pretty good collection of pottery as well as fabrics and jewelry from various civilizations that have inhabited Peru, including Incas, Chimus, Mochica. It was interesting to see the different artifacts as well as learn about the sacrificial practices. The Mochica for example, would have ceremonial battles where participants would try to remove the headdress or pull the hair of their opponent. The losing warrior would then be taken to the priest who would slit his throat and drink the blood as an offering to the gods. Quite gruesome but fascinating all the same and for some reason more palatable than the group who chose the most talented of their women (eg best weavers) and shut them away, then sacrificed the most beautiful of them.
When the tour was over I had a quick look through a small market in the park (I think shopping in Peru will be VERY tempting) then found a nice cafe for an early dinner. Since I was in Peru a pisco was definitely in order. This place had pages of different pisco cocktails! I opted for the pisco sour to start with and a plate of pescado which is basically ceviche without the onions - a delicious offering of thinly sliced fish, bathed in a sauce made from lemon and orange juice with chilli. Absolutely delicious but I needed something a little more substantial as the pisco was going straight to me head! I had another look at the menu and opted for these "fingers" that were basically a puffy pastry (not puff think more bubbly but puffed up like long pillows) with a thin strip of melted cheese inside. These were served with a warm avocado salsa and were totally delicious.
Fortunately/ unfortunately the cafe was right next door to a helado (ice cream ) shop so of course I had to indulge. I then happily wandered the streets a little light headed eating creamy icy goodness. Managed to find a cheap phone call place and sort put bank issues on the way. On the street the hostal is in I stumbled across a salon that was still open and offered pedicures for about A$10. I thought that would be great before galapagos so headed in. Whilst waiting the salon lady talked me in to getting a wash and blow dry (ok I didn't need much convincing). She spoke no English, my Spanish still sucks, but we managed some sort of conversation ( she kept calling me Barbie). I even let her trim my fringe, but just did not have the confidence for a full on haircut. I did feel sorry for the girl now waiting to do my feet though - especially when she knelt down to take my existing polish off whilst I was getting blow dried. I had no idea how much the whole thing would cost but nearly fell over my chair when the bill was 52soles (about $20)!!! I tipped the nail girl another 10 as she'd stayed after closing to finish and my feet were in a dreadful state!
All in all it was a pretty good way to finish a pretty good day in a place I am really starting to love.
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