My first overnight bus experience in Peru was certainly one to remember...and this time for good reasons. Although we had to wait around until nearly midnight to get on the bus, when we got on it it was pure luxury. We sat on te upper level, which for starters was an improvement on all other buses and normally there is just one level...and then when we got to our seats we discovered that they were flash leather seats, fully reclining, with foot rests. It was just like travelling first class on a plane, and really puts the standard of British transport to shame when you consider that in the town where we boarded the bus locals have only one hour of water a day...really puts things into perspective.

Anyway, our destination was the colonial city of Arequipa and was the first taster of altitude in Peru at 2325m above sea level. To acclimitise we spent a leisurely day exploring the main square, markets and the Santa Catalina monestary, which was a really interesting little place - like a small city within a city, almost like a citudel. Much of the city is built from a light coloured volcanic rock, which gives it a beautiful white sparkle on a sunny day.

Then we spent the next couple of days at the Colca Canyon - the deepest canyon in the world. Saw my first llamas, alpacas and vicunas (a more rare camelid) in the wild as we drove through the national park along a rough, rutted road. I also learnt how to identify a llama from an alpaca - the llama has its tail up and the alpaca tail down! Still getting used to the altitude we were also introduced to coca for the first time. Now while coca leaves are the basis for the production of cocaine, there are many products available in Peru using coca that are designed to help with altitude sickness and in no way constitute a drugs fix! However my first experience of Coca tea was not a good one...the cup was simply full of water and just a whole bunch of leaves, with a sprig of mint for good measure. It tasted foul, like drinking grass...but all in an attempt to fend off the effects of altitude.

We continued on and drove to the highest point I´ve ever been to at 4910m above sea level. Just getting out of the bus was an effort, my chest was so tight and it was incredibly difficult to breathe. But thankfully it was just a brief photo stop and then it was on to Chivay for a little respite. The day provided beautiful views over the valley and from our hotel we went for a short, but lovely walk around the countryside, partly in preparation for the inca trail, but along the way we saw a pre-inca cemetary built into the hillside and encountered several children all eager to show us the local produce, and of course more than willing to take money for a photo! Peru produces over 3,500 types of potato, and eight of them were grown in this valley, along with several different types of corn - one of them bright purple (sounds odd but makes a great drink!).

Our final stop of the day was to some thermal pools for a bit of relaxation...the swim was nice but once we got out it was absolutely freezing...it was a quick dash into hot showers and then a race back to the bus for some warm food at the hotel. That night I tried alpaca meat for dinner...it was quite tasty but not my favourite...and for once it was something that didnt taste like chicken, it was more gamey, maybe like liver or kidney.

And finally we reached the colca canyon the next morning. It was an early start in order to get there in time to see the condors flying. The scenery was stunning but unfortunately there were so many other tourists there it took the shine off it slightly. There is a definite gringo trail through Peru, and it is really difficult to avoid coming across other groups and buses full of tourists, but its just something you have to get used to. We ended up seeing about 6 or 7 condors, fascinating birds - they are the heaviest flying bird in the world, although not the largest, that is the albatros.

We then went for a walk along the edge of the canyon, where the deepest point is 3,600m. To me it didnt seem quite as impressive as the Grand Canyon and I was really surprised to learn that the Grand Canyon is in fact only half as deep as this one, but I think the perspective was distorted slightly as this is more of a ravine type canyon, rather than a crater.

On the way back to Arequipa we made a few more stops in small villages and then it was simply an early night ready for more activity the next day...